Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 321
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by neoGT-25

Here are the things i want so far... are they all good or crap?

(Whats the difference between the exchange price and the normal price?)

MINE's VX-ROM -----> (exchange price  - A$1837)            A$3367

A'PEXi N-1 muffler (N/A) -----> A$770

TIEN TYPE FLEX DAMPER -----> A$2771

nismo f&r STRUT BRACE BAR -----> A$544

A'PEXi GT Spec RADIATOR CAP (It helps with the pressure dosent it?) -----> A$52

BLITZ SONIC POWER AIR CLEANER -----> A$467

A'PEXi RSM + G-sensor -----> A$450?

i also need some guages, any ideas?

is there anything that i need thats not there apart from a turbo? i want my car to be a nice counding fast N/A line :)

thanks for any help you can give. :) byes :burnout:

remember to add freight from japan to australia to those prices :(

some nice goodies there, i hope you get them. good luck with it all

Guest neoGT-25

hey Everyone, i have good news too... i got my cat-back muffler today! YAY! :D

its a Autotecnica one, i hope i dident buy a crap one! it was $199

im going to get 2 and a 1/2 inch piping... does anyone know how much it will cost for 2.5" piping + install on that and the muffler?

also is there a good place on the GC to get it done?

one other question... im thinking about purchusing something from nengun... do his prices where it says (inc shipping) cover import tax on products? if not, how much is import tax?

thanks for any help, bye all :burnout:

PS: Good stuff greg... enjoy :uh-huh::D:alcoholic:D

for my sister's bf to get 2.25" piping from the cat back, new muffler and a hotdog style resonator it cost him a bit over $400. That was using dodgy mild steel though....

Make sure you get some sort of resonator otherwise it will drone like one of those dodgy lancers you see going around.

let us know how u go :D

I got my cat back stainless steel 2.25" zorst put in in syd, mandrel bent n all, hi flow cat, black box (or sumthing like that) resonator, magnaflow muffler (the oval one with a 3" end) fitted for $900 in syd at Tuffy Mufflers. And yeah you can definitely feel a bigger punch now.

The reason I got it was my old 2.25" mild steel system had ROTTED on the inside and chunks had gone thru the the muffler and up to the cat, resulting in a destroyed muffler and a hollow cat lol.

It def pulls much better now, and seems to be a bit more torquey at lower revs, dunno bout higher revs tho.

I've kept the 2.25" extractors, coz there was nuffin worng with them and they didn't suffer from rot because they were stainless steel. mmm Fujitsubo extractors!

Hmmmmm this thread is a bit dead!

Ok i have a question 4 every1

How do u ppl go wen draging other cars? do u win or lose?

(not that any1 illeagally street races or anything but lets pretend)

Being n/a and all id expect it be hard 2 win how bout against commonwhores?

thanx:D

have you guys ever thought about turboing your non-turbo motors.... it really is cheap and majorly efficient... all you need is the factory turbo... oil lines/water lines(to the turbo) manifold and intercooler... and turbo computer and injectors....

my mate had a non-turbo r32 that he got CHEAP... and then he bought an blown up turbo motor for two hundred dollars... it was a complete motor that had internal damage.... he swapped all the turbo bits onto the non-turbo and it runs like a champ...

it has all the factory oil feeds and water feeds already in the block... just pull the bungs out and put the lines in place... and this skyline has been at dorift events in brisbane, drag raced and just generally abused without a single hiccup.... we just keep in with standard boost and it runs all day with no pinging or anything...

after the success of that build we Na to turboed my silvia... and it is a little rocket... it owes me about $700 for the conversion but is no where near as simple as the RB to turbo conversions..... you have to make custom oil lines and water lines... and is generally a little bit of a headache... although after doing one I could do another one in a day...

just if you have a Non turbo Skyline... and just want boost... not a monster... just a standard turbo'd skyline consider this an option it really works... we have the cars to prove it....

just go to the wastelands, to squizzmobiles III and ask any of those guys... there are some cool toys cruising around Centeral Queensland and most of them aren't as convensional as down south... we don't have access to loads of performance shops and if we do they are to dear... so we build our own toys....

sometimes you just have to think outside the box... and don't let anyone tell you it isn't possible.....

ps the fun part is when everyone checks out your NA silvia Q and then get annilated at the lights...

due to extra compression in the motor... with standard boost the NA converted turbo motor is a touch quicker than genuine turbo motor...

in our hot dry land.... we had too skylines on the dyno....

one converted and one standard....

the standard 32 RB20DET made 162 Hp at the wheels...

the conversion RB20DE+ made 185 Hp at the wheels...

same day same fuel and both useing standard parts....

interesting eh??

hey digsy_20, mate i would love to do a turbo conversion and just run standard boost. only problems is that it costs too much. plus i don't know how to do any of that myself so it would cost a fair bit for labour. i'm thinking it would cost like $2,500 all up parts and labour. it'll be easier for me to sell and buy a T.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...