Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 321
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

omg the extractors are teh bomb... they make a sweet noise when I give it gas, having driven a stock GTS and mine, it makes a big difference. The engine revs a lot smoother too.

I even got the jap manual, the bill for purchase and fitting by a performance shop in japan, and a sticker for it, which was never attached.

I also got an HKS airbox... but I haven't tried any alternative CAI methods so I can't compare it to anything.

I'm gonna do some light mods to the car, what do you guys recommend to get the most out of the N/A?

extractors_manual_1.jpg

hi all... im relatively new to the Skyline world, having only just bought one ~6months ago, but like everyone else, am looking for more power... I only have an R32 GTS Type-S (RB20DE), so am not expecting miracles, but being beaten by any commodore is just embarrasing...

Having read all of the previous posts on Exhausts/extractors/CAIs etc, im wondering whether its worth the effort of staying NA. All the same, When i bought the car, she already had a 3" high flow system, of some japanese origin, but i think the headers are only factory (not a manifold though). The air box on the 32 is fed from under the headlight assembly anyway, so would a CAI or Pod filter help at all? You guys sound like you'd know more about this than me, so any help will be great.. Cheers, Phil

well in that case, can you tell me what badges yours has? coz some ...unmentionable... has gone to all the trouble of RIPPING ALL MINE OFF !!! bastard... anyways, it was before i got it, and i have never seen another one (i live in a small town) close enough to work out what im meant to have. All i can see is the outlines on the front arches where the GT badges were.

Originally posted by pstanbis

All the same, When i bought the car, she already had a 3" high flow system, of some japanese origin, but i think the headers are only factory (not a manifold though).

3" is way to big for a NA 2.0 litre, I've got a 2 1/2" exhaust system on my 2.5 litre and I wouldn't go any bigger. If you're going to keep the car NA, get a hold of some extractors (there's a group buy set up at the moment, to get Cobe's for around the $300 mark), and if you're going to slap on a pod filter, make sure you sheild it so it doesn't suck in the hot air from around the engine.

At the end of the day though, you're pretty limited with what you can get out of the 2.0 litre engine.

i would have to agree that 3" is probably a *Little* bit of overkill for 2 litres... but it's not like its a 2-stroke requiring a tuned back-pressure, is it? i dunno... all the same, i am also aware that theres not much to do with that small capacity, but at my age, there is no way i can insure a forced aspro car of ANY sort, (but lets face it, after owning a Skyline, what else would you have?) so im trying to make the best of what i've got.

The air intake is another matter, because im SURE you can't get too much air. And i fitted a pair of driving lights the other week, and found that behind the side intake of the GTR front bar (again, a waste on a GTS) is a gaping cavity with nothing in it. Would it be worth trying to tap the pod filter into this area, as it would then be drawing fully from the open air in front, which would obviously be the coldest. Anyone else tried this before? suggestions?

hey guys i got the same extractors as the one in the group buy

i found em here in sydney paid a little bit more than the group buy price though

just comparing the old headers to the new ones you could tell that the new ones would perform better but i wasnt expecting much difference from them but boy was i surprised

i have a 2.5 inch cat back exhaust, stock cat and the coby extractors i also have a cold air induction

once the extractors were installed i noticed straight away that the car sounded meaner and more open it also reved smoother and quicker i regaind alot of the low down power i lost when i put the exhaust on

so just lettting u guys know im very happy with em

hopefully u guys will be too

anf

yea i was so close to changing it to a 2.25" but i thought ill wait till the extractors go on then i would decide wat to do but it seems ok now

i tightened the accelerator cable too cause there was a sh*tload of slack

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...