Jump to content
SAU Community

Which Stroker Kit  

177 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

if i was building a forklift id put an RB30 engine in it as thats what they were designed for.

If i was building a high rpm drag engine id stick with a stock crank and high quality pistons and rods (my preference is JUN and this is the set-up i currently have to chase 8's with)

Interesting, my forkift RB30 motor runs 8.7 in a street car on street tyres and revs HIGHER than one of your local RB26 GTRs that has just ran 7.8s, go figure??

As far as a 26 being able to rev faster than a RB30 thats not true either unless your talking about in Neutral, in the real world the engine can only gain revs as quickly as the car is accellerating (unless you have wheelspin or clutch slip) so a RB30 making 700hp would actually rev faster than a 700hp RB26 due to the broader spread of torque.

Rob

  • Replies 168
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hey Rob,

how long would that engine last for doing 1/4 mile pass's of 8.7 sec? Is the car drivable on the street? ie the cams aren't so lumpy that you need a skippers chair to sit right.

What kinda boost are you running through this " street car" to achieve that 162mph?

What do you define as a street car and in particular what are the specs of that one that does 8.7 secs? kerb weight?

cheers

rob

Stock internal REBUILT RB30 with alot of time spent, modifications, new parts, all assembled ready to go.

What a load of rubbish, if you can supply me fully forged shortblocks built to the same standard as I do for nzd3500 I'll have 20 a month please. Whats your account number I'd like to get started on these please.

Have you run 8.7 @162mph in a street car on street tyres with one of your forged bottom ends?

I'd bet you probably havn't done an 11.

Your not comparing apples with apples, not even close.

Rob

Rob dont bother with the doubters, i saw the same thing happen to you on the UK site and its best just to remain silent and keep showing your amazing workmanship.

Keep making those movies of dyno runs and drags and they will do the talking. Show the wheelstands and mention the customers who ship their cars across countries for your tuning.

Post some of your fabrication skills pics on here and leave it at that.

I have an r34 gtr and when i ready for a built motor, i will be buying from you!

I pm'ed with Rob from RIPS last year about an RB30 T04Z combo. It worked out almost the same price as a full house Step 2 HKS (all the extras) but the there was a shed load more fab involved, more hp on tap + a T04Z and piping in the RIPS deal . The guys on GTRUK seem very happy with Robs work.

Hey Rob,

how long would that engine last for doing 1/4 mile pass's of 8.7 sec? Is the car drivable on the street? ie the cams aren't so lumpy that you need a skippers chair to sit right.

What kinda boost are you running through this " street car" to achieve that 162mph?

What do you define as a street car and in particular what are the specs of that one that does 8.7 secs? kerb weight?

cheers

rob

The engine has done a full season, hours and hours on the dyno, a fair bit on the street and I pulled the pants off it recently to check it and I'm not even going to change the bearings, they are like new.

We run 2 bar and 9000rpm at the strip to get 162mph.

The car has full interior, full exhaust system with muffler, full steel body, all glass, dot street tyres etc.

It idles nice at 1000rpm, its smooth as silk to drive, doesn't get hot and is pretty good on gas on the open road (as long as you don't nail it, lol)

A 1200hp engine we just fitted to a R34 GTR was also very nice on the street, would pull nice from 1200rpm, make plenty of boost by 3500rpm and be hauling by 4500 to 9000rpm.

It made 620whp at all 4 with 1 bar of boost and 98 pump gas.

It made about 750whp at all 4 on 98 pump gas at 1.7 bar with a very safe tune and 1000whp on C16 at 2 bar.

It weighed 1740kg and on its first ever run at the strip (which I made a bit of a mess of) it ran a 9.7.

Rob

its also a lot lower than some 11000-12000rpm rb26's going around

True, the RB30s we usually do have stock blocks, stock cranks, stock cradles etc so 9000 is plenty I think, lol.

Besides that, by 8500rpm we are usually making more power than a similar spec 26 doing 9500-10,000 and I'd rather keep the rpm as low as required to get the job done.

Rob

its also a lot lower than some 11000-12000rpm rb26's going around

still seems very impressive

Still seems? I dunno quite what you're getting at, but I don't ever recall the highest revs you can reach is a tangible indication of good performance. The whole 8.7 @ 162mph in a street car is however. If revs were the most important thing then we could just put little 2stroke motors in our cars :blink: High revs is one of the best ways of killing an engine fast...

With your RB30 stock bottom ends from NZD$4000, are these all ready to be bolted straight onto a twin cam head?

Yep, the mods are done to the oil system and the belt tensioner is relocated.

A twin cam head will bolt straight on but the R33 RB25 head needs the usual mods first.

Rob

the luckiest thing for Rips would be there road rules are a shitload less strict than ours.. the car that does 8.2's is great however it wouldnt be a road car here in aus seeing as it drives around with a chute 4link and wheelie bars from memory?

Yeah aussie road rules are pretty bad in some places I've heard.

When on the street we usually take off the wheelie bars and parachute but although I've been pulled over many times by the cops they only want a look at the car usually, I've never had a warning or a ticket.

Rob

^^ variable timing with the RB25 is actually quite tasty :(

I always thought that you lose the VCT when doing a RB30 bottem end because of the oil galleries or something :D

Edited by PM-R33
you can modify the head + an external oil feed from the block to retain it.

A little sideways off topic, but... I came across pictures of an RB25 VCT cam conversion that was being done to an RB26 head the other day. Where there's a will there's a way.... A little clever thinking and access to a machine shop will get you VCT on a RB26 a lot cheaper than the HKS variable cam system.

the luckiest thing for Rips would be there road rules are a shitload less strict than ours.. the car that does 8.2's is great however it wouldnt be a road car here in aus seeing as it drives around with a chute 4link and wheelie bars from memory?

Yeah thats a fair point.

Soon as anything shiny is seen in the engine bay its off through the ringer, so depending on what you want, use etc you are restricted in some ways depending on where you live.

I remember being in Wellington a couple years back and a VN with a massive blower sticking out the bonnet came driving past.

And friends i was with said ye, that doesn't really get much attention over here.

I nearly fainted :D

Yeah thats a fair point.

Soon as anything shiny is seen in the engine bay its off through the ringer, so depending on what you want, use etc you are restricted in some ways depending on where you live.

I remember being in Wellington a couple years back and a VN with a massive blower sticking out the bonnet came driving past.

And friends i was with said ye, that doesn't really get much attention over here.

I nearly fainted :)

yeh when a mate of mine from NZ was telling me wat you could get away with over there in the ways of mods i couldnt believe it..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...