Jump to content
SAU Community

Johnnys Dyno Results 2

Johnny

By Johnny,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Johnny Veteran

Johnny

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

This thread is an elaboration from Trents (URAS) thread which basically showed the low/midrange gains of a boost solenoid or stepper motor with a properly setup 'Gain" function; Fine control of wastegates.

Thankyou by the way Trent from stopping me buying the power fc boost kit!

Also

The discussion about stock airboxes and whether they proved a restriction from an air velocity, turbulance and volume point.

-First dyno sheet was done on the 2nd of July and made 235awkw at 1bar with an apexi replacement panel filter and bottom half of the airbox removed.

-Boost controler was a HKS EVC version 3 (solenoid)

-Dyno done today made 255awkw at 1 bar with apexi power intake pods

-Boost controller was a new HKS EVC Version 6 (stepper motor)

Both dyno runs were done with the bonnets up so even though there was a gain of 20awkw would we expect a car in bumper to bumper traffic to have higher intake temperatures and therefore lose this power? But one thing is for sure, the addition of a partition utilizing the intake snorkel might give us the best of both worlds!

I dont really know how to compare the different boost controllers as i dont know how to compare a dyno sheet in RPM to KM/H so perhaps someone would like to examine it for me.

There is no 100% secure result as there are too many sliding variables but i found it pretty cool!

Thankyou to Rob, Daniel and the rest of the boys at CREATD motorsport! He went above and beyond for a tidy setup, expert tune and treated the car as if it was his own. So if anyone is looking for an expert tuner, I highly recommend them and have their contact details in my signature.

post-4266-1221127307_thumb.jpg

post-4266-1221127284_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235700-johnnys-dyno-results-2/
Share on other sites
Johnny Veteran

Johnny

Posted
  • Author
Posted
nice results mate would like to ask what mods have got to the motor

Thanks mate, just a catback zorst, pods, power fc and EBC

As i asked

Did you removed the side panel out of the airbox? Which restricts it and must be removed?

Did you try taking the panel filter out entirely? (just to properly test restrictions?)

Not exactly sure what your asking but here is a pic of the setup

post-4266-1221129220_thumb.jpg

here it is now

post-4266-1221129381_thumb.jpg

BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

i'm not seeing a lot of difference between the boost curves there. You have the same shaped ramp onto boost and even have the same slight creep up to 1 bar at the top end. earlier or later response can come down to what revs the operator loads up the car.

Also 2 different dynos 4 months apart doesn't really prove much at all to be honest. And 2 different types of dyno at that. And neither is showing the correction data!

I don't want to sound negative, but we have nothing to make a direct comparison with, even the scales are different.

Johnny Veteran

Johnny

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks guys so far for the analysis and thoughts! Like said there are too many sliding variables to my testing so a 100% proven theory is not on the cards but im very happy with the results and the car is fabulous to drive!

I wrote up this thread because this is a forum for skyline enthusiasts and i hope some people enjoyed the read/results.

RyleyMA61 Enthusiast

RyleyMA61

Posted
Posted

dear god that car looks f**king mean

good to see an improvement though, and you reckon driveability is heaps better?

i want a bit more driveability from the R32. just doesn't have the wall of torque the supra does... but has many more revs :P

SS8_Gohan Grand Master

SS8_Gohan

Posted
Posted

was at Status Tuning the other day, we did back to back dyno runs, both with hi-flow panel filter (Blitz) but one with stock airbox lid on, one off. 10rwkw difference. Don't want to go pod, so might "modify" the airbox lid :P

Johnny Veteran

Johnny

Posted
  • Author
Posted
dear god that car looks f**king mean

good to see an improvement though, and you reckon driveability is heaps better?

i want a bit more driveability from the R32. just doesn't have the wall of torque the supra does... but has many more revs :P

Thanks man! Definitely driveability is better 100%

Never driven a supra, would love to feel the difference.

was at Status Tuning the other day, we did back to back dyno runs, both with hi-flow panel filter (Blitz) but one with stock airbox lid on, one off. 10rwkw difference. Don't want to go pod, so might "modify" the airbox lid :)

Thanks for the positive result.

When i was using the airbox i noticed an instant sluggishness once i put the other half of the box back on.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted
Hey guys,

This thread is an elaboration from Trents (URAS) thread which basically showed the low/midrange gains of a boost solenoid or stepper motor with a properly setup 'Gain" function; Fine control of wastegates.

Thankyou by the way Trent from stopping me buying the power fc boost kit!

Also

The discussion about stock airboxes and whether they proved a restriction from an air velocity, turbulance and volume point.

-First dyno sheet was done on the 2nd of July and made 235awkw at 1bar with an apexi replacement panel filter and bottom half of the airbox removed.

-Boost controler was a HKS EVC version 3 (solenoid)

-Dyno done today made 255awkw at 1 bar with apexi power intake pods

-Boost controller was a new HKS EVC Version 6 (stepper motor)

Both dyno runs were done with the bonnets up so even though there was a gain of 20awkw would we expect a car in bumper to bumper traffic to have higher intake temperatures and therefore lose this power? But one thing is for sure, the addition of a partition utilizing the intake snorkel might give us the best of both worlds!

I dont really know how to compare the different boost controllers as i dont know how to compare a dyno sheet in RPM to KM/H so perhaps someone would like to examine it for me.

There is no 100% secure result as there are too many sliding variables but i found it pretty cool!

Thankyou to Rob, Daniel and the rest of the boys at CREATD motorsport! He went above and beyond for a tidy setup, expert tune and treated the car as if it was his own. So if anyone is looking for an expert tuner, I highly recommend them and have their contact details in my signature.

post-4266-1221127307_thumb.jpg

post-4266-1221127284_thumb.jpg

I can't follow your graphs. You say both runs were at 1 bar of boost but one chart says 15psi (around 1 bar) but the other seems to say 200 kpa (about 2 bar).
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
was at Status Tuning the other day, we did back to back dyno runs, both with hi-flow panel filter (Blitz) but one with stock airbox lid on, one off. 10rwkw difference. Don't want to go pod, so might "modify" the airbox lid :P

Did you try with the filter off (just outta interest)

SS8_Gohan Grand Master

SS8_Gohan

Posted
Posted
Did you try with the filter off (just outta interest)

don't think we did, just with the lid off. Trent then said he may have noticed one of the pipes sucking closed, so we ran again and i tried to watch it, didn't seem to be closing, but plan on doing the 3cm stainless steel insert mod all the same. He mentioned cutting some holes around the lid, and maybe meshing them up so it doesn't look too obvious.

rob82 Mentor

rob82

Posted
Posted

As has been already said - different dynos - different days and neither run with corrections applied or in a industry standard "Shootout mode". So liitle can be made from these graphs and its pointless to try to draw conclusions.

Why dont you try logging AFM voltages on the same day in the same conditions with pods and then with the standard Airbox.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...