Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is all good news guys, I'm happy to hear that I at least have my head around the requirements.

Yes I know I'll need a clutch, and shocks and likely brakes as well, nothing my R33 GT-R didn't have so I'm confident in those areas I just wanted feedback on the engine side of things as mine was only a mild tune 250awkw's.

I've read of people having N1 cores put inside of there R34 GT-R turbo's and having the housing machined. Is this worth the hassle for the cost savings?

^^ no, not when -7's from Garrett are $1200-$1300ea these days.

By the time you sell the R34 stockers, works out to around what, $1000ea which is cheaper, faster and easier.

Turbos off, turbos on...

Rather than turbos off... turbo shop takes "X" time ... turbos on.

Ahh right-o

I've heard some good and bad things about PFC's, what other real alternatives are there? Is Ben at Race Pace just a master who can tune a graphics calculator or does he recommend something?

Ahh didn't realise AFM was required.

Where's SydneyKid lurking, thought he would've chimed in by now...

what pwr do the std AFM and Injectors max out?

both the injectors and the afms reach their 'safe' limit at about 270-280rwkw. you can push more if you want but it's not advisable. considering to get past 270rwkw anyway you will be spending up on turbos etc you really should spend the money to get the fuel system to match and the AFMs to allow you to tune it properly.

I am running standard AFM's and injectors so you can get away with it. If you have the cash for Nismo AFMs then they are a good idea, especially if your stockies are getting old. I did put a nismo fuel pump in however which is also for a bit of security.

Just make sure you got a spare $16 odd grand firstly to buy all the bits, and then get Racepace to put it all on and tune it - or if your going to do it yourself you might save around $3k.

I just drove it out loaded up with goodies the day I left for targa tas and said "fix it" - knew there was no way I could come back to a slow stocky GTR after fanging one around tassie for a week - and there was no way I was going to put myself through changing the turbos on another rb26 for at least a year.

You can also use 300zx Z32 afm's - but I can't see the point - go brand new with the Nismos - they slot straight in place of your stockies - just read further.

I do think the Z32's are larger diameter so only useful for much higher power levels.

Edit: you also need to change plugs on your wiring loom (=yuk), and not sure if they will fit with your stock piping - looses the beauty of having a car for which there are so many true bolt on upgrades.

Edited by paulR32gtr
I think I remember seeing that some people had used two RB25 AFM's, yes no?

If Nismo items are the way to go what's the going rate on a set of those babies?

$350ea from perfect run.

Z32's aren't bolt in, Nismos are a Z32 sensor in a stock AFM casing :bunny:

Same deal wirth RB25 ones, dont 'bolt in'.

Nismo is the easiest soloution, not the cheapest however... but id rather buy new AFM's than use unknown others as AFM problems are painful (had some myself recently)

^^ that with the d-jetro is going to cost a lot more + the units extra cost itself.

So its pretty much even steven, one is not neccesarily better than the other.

Both can achieve the same end result, for the same cost.

Which is faster? The AFM path

nsta: How long have you had your stock bottom end at that power? Tell me a bit more about your car/driving habits etc

Everyone: What boost will GT-SS's need for the power in mind. Could the same power be achieved at lower boost on different turbos? Less boost means less heat and stress on the bottom end.

Ahh right-o

I've heard some good and bad things about PFC's, what other real alternatives are there? Is Ben at Race Pace just a master who can tune a graphics calculator or does he recommend something?

Ben could tune a medieval harp if it needed it!

nsta: How long have you had your stock bottom end at that power? Tell me a bit more about your car/driving habits etc

Everyone: What boost will GT-SS's need for the power in mind. Could the same power be achieved at lower boost on different turbos? Less boost means less heat and stress on the bottom end.

Yeah you could do it with bigger turbos, but then you'd have a less responsive car for the power.

Its a balance :bunny:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...