R33 Dyno Results With Hks3037 Pro S

[SLYDA]

Hey Everyone,

Ive pretty much finished my R33 Build today with the completion of a tune on a DynaPack Hub Dyno, it didnt make as much power as I hoped (was wanting 300RWKW) but the results were 353.08RWHP/263.29RWKW on 19.7PSI with 450NM Torque by 5100RPM tuned on BP Ultimate.

The set up is as follows:

HKS 3037 Pro S with a 0.68 Rear (full bolt on kit)

HKS Induction Piping

HKS Split Dump

Blitz 3" Front Pipe

X-Force 560CFM Highflow Cat

3" Straight Through Exhaust

Low Mount Stainless Manifold

Hybrid Front Mount Intercooler

Turbosmart Stage 3 Plumb Back BOV

Apexi Power FC

Apexi Power FC Boost Control Kit

740cc Nismo Injectors

Z32 Air Flow Meter

Exedy Cushioned Brass Button Clutch

Walbro 255L/h Fuel Pump with 14.4V Relay Feed

Aus Spec Tein Super Street Coilovers

Tein EDFC (Electronic Dampening Controller)

I've included some pics of the car under the bonnet and inside the cabin, the cars still at the mechanic/tuner as one of the rims got bucked and has been sent off for repair but ill post dyno sheets once I have got them (should be Friday) and the pic of under the engine bay was before the Suspension Install ill take another one once the strut brace has been fitted once it arrives.

Edited September 23, 2008 by SLYDA

[paulr33]

good work but id say you have a striction somewhere

the most boost you stuff into it, the bigger the restriction you have

maybe try a dyno run with the exhaust unbolted ?

[STATUS]

chuck up the graph, and i will have a look for you (i have a new dynapack) torque is good but yeah power is a bit low for the boost, a .61 3037s made 289rwkw on my sr @ similar boost.

when is full boost reached?

[SLYDA]

from what i believe 4500RPM Nizmo_freeks makes full power by 3750RPM however that was at 17PSI. one of the cooler pipes has been reduced in diamater by having a fan blade smashing into it by approx 1/3 (top pipe going across the fan). Would this constitute a significant restriction of flow? I was actually planning on replacing them with a stanless set as they where chrome plated and its starting to peel off anyway.

After replacing the pipe would I need to retune the car? Thats the only thing i could see being a problem as everything else is brand new.

As for unbolting the exhaust, it has a brand new Blitz 3" Front Pipe, Brand new High Flow Cat, a 3.5" exhaust with no mid muffler and only the Canon on the rear so i dont think that would be the problem but an idea ill mention tommorow. Im hoping its still on the dyno as they were meant to be checking the cold start tommorow and it was tuned this afternoon.

Edited September 23, 2008 by SLYDA

[R31Nismoid]

what manifold?

[R31 POWER]

What exhaust manifold is that?? Looks nice.

[SLYDA]

Im not sure to tell you the truth. I bought it from some online store as it looked half decent in the pics and I liked the collector design.

[SLY-25T]

great setup mate!!! that sounds like wat id like to run one day wen the money pops up from nowhere ... lol

[RBwhatever]

That is nice

[SLYDA]

Hmm... Money... haha im so broke right now, theres $14-15K just in parts in that list including the tune and a few other supporting mods, its all pretty much been done in the last 6 - 8 months whilst its been off the road and thats not including installation as ive done everything but the clutch myself. I get my license back in 3 weeks! so looking foward to taking it for a drive.

[discopotato03]

Jury out but I'm highly suspicious of stainless direct replacement exhaust manifolds for RB20/25 , I think the factory did a good job on the std iron lump and it's not nearly as bad as many would like to think . It's not a competition std manifold but is was designed by people who have the smarts .

I reckon I'd smooth up the std one and refit it for trial purposes .

Again (IMO only) I think I would have opted for the 0.87 A/R ProS turbine housing mainly because HKS go to the trouble of trying to make their spec turbos responsive , things like the nicely designed turbine housing and the port shrouded comp cover .

A .

[Lithium]

Jury out but I'm highly suspicious of stainless direct replacement exhaust manifolds for RB20/25 , I think the factory did a good job on the std iron lump and it's not nearly as bad as many would like to think . It's not a competition std manifold but is was designed by people who have the smarts .

I reckon I'd smooth up the std one and refit it for trial purposes .

Again (IMO only) I think I would have opted for the 0.87 A/R ProS turbine housing mainly because HKS go to the trouble of trying to make their spec turbos responsive , things like the nicely designed turbine housing and the port shrouded comp cover .

The .82a/r Garrett ones are perfectly nice to use, and I run a stainless direct replacement and it is definitely a noticeable improvement over the stock one but having said that, the stock one was definitely not bad. I had a look into cleaning up the stock one and using a dremmel there isn't really much more you can do other than port match, unfortunately in NZ we don't have the option of extrude honing these things.

I run in the 270-280wkw on 1bar of boost on a Dynapack hub dyno with mine, so I definitely feel something is amiss with yours.

[SLY33]

your making the power of a 2835 but requiring more boost, but im not sure how much hub figures wary from wheel figures? certainly looks like you have all the right supporting mods to make the power.

Sure you havent gone for a little spin around the block yet? I know i would have

[The Mafia]

I made 314rwkw with 18psi, and a water methanol kit. You should be making at least 280rwkw.

[PM-R33]

Yeah definetely should be making more power on that boost. Have you got a boost vs rpm graph to chuck up? Just wondering wether it's not holding boost properly.

[SLYDA]

Actually i think i made a mistake, i think its actually on 18PSI. I will have them in my hand friday, however i have to find a scanner :S.. aparantally i have like 6 pages of data. It also seems that i have quite a major vibration (have always felt it) at higher RPMS which has been deemed to be the diff and the vibration can be seen on the back hubs.. would this be affecting power?

Edited September 24, 2008 by SLYDA

[PM-R33]

Hmm doubt it but you never know. Most likely the cradel bushes are worn and causing the diff to move slightly. Most skylines have worn cradle bushes after so many years of use. However yeah it could be the diff itself.

[NYTSKY]

I made 292.5 @ 17psi but thats with new intake and exhaust manifolds.

[SLYDA]

the mechanic believed someone had flogged the hell outta it (drifting) had SAU stickers on it when i bought it too :S. haha

[STATUS]

Actually i think i made a mistake, i think its actually on 18PSI. I will have them in my hand friday, however i have to find a scanner :S.. aparantally i have like 6 pages of data. It also seems that i have quite a major vibration (have always felt it) at higher RPMS which has been deemed to be the diff and the vibration can be seen on the back hubs.. would this be affecting power?

it will be rear wheel bearings.