Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I would be interested to see the printout, especially the AFR. When you say tabletop, it is probably running rich as up there, plenty more power to be made leaning it off to 12 but your pistons would be enjoying all the fuel cooling them down. If you run an exhaust temp gauge they are more likely to lean out the top end as the temps are usually well under control.

Nice smell on boost? :cool:

I'll get another printout with the AFR on the graph, i'm going down there on saturday to have the fuel tank sender unit looked at and maybe replaced.

I didnt even think of asking for a printout of the AFR's on the graph

I think it may have been bumped when they were fitting the fuel pump or it may be caught on something?

Can definitely smell the e85 on boost and when at the lights.

i like it!

Here is a Drive article on e85.

I don't know how Holden expected ethanol to work well in an engine designed to run on e10, until the infrastructure is in place there's no way they will up the compression I guess...

http://theage.drive.com.au/motor-news/ethanol-put-to-the-test-e85-v-e10-v-premium-unleaded-20110205-1ahgx.html

it's actually a good article, someone has actually bothered to do a bit of homework.

i'm having absolutely zero luck posting a comment though :domokun:>_< - keeps saying i've got the incorrect security code no matter how many times i try and what iteration of the code i use

it's actually a good article, someone has actually bothered to do a bit of homework.

i'm having absolutely zero luck posting a comment though :domokun:>_< - keeps saying i've got the incorrect security code no matter how many times i try and what iteration of the code i use

Do they already know you're one of the "modifiers" they spoke of? lol.

If only Holden had strapped a GT35 on it. :whistling:

Anyone done a test on the caltex flex-fuel lately?

Going to get an e85 tune done on the car but want it done on e85 not e70. If i have it right, from what you guys have posted, it should be e85 now yes? Cheers.

Anyone done a test on the caltex flex-fuel lately?

Going to get an e85 tune done on the car but want it done on e85 not e70. If i have it right, from what you guys have posted, it should be e85 now yes? Cheers.

Nope, still e70. I doubt they will change it until at least next summer as the tanks are full.

Ah ok thanks for that. Maybe it'll have to be e70 then as i'm not that close to rozelle.

Addtionaly, spoke to my tuner today and he said i'll need larger injectors..he was recommending 1000cc mellow.gif

I would've thought my 550's were enough..setup below anyone care to shed some more light on this? I can see there are previous posters making around 300rwkw on 550s or 555s.

rb25 (bored to close 2.6)

all the usual bolt ons and ported head, gt2871r turbo (equiv to gt-rs).

tomei 550cc injectors, bosch 040 mounted in tank and nismo adjustable fuel reg.

Is my tuner correct or is he on crack lol?

If he's on crack...anyone recommend some places in sydney. I get the impression my car will be the first e85 rb25 he tunes though i know he's done a fair few evo's with e85. Was quoted $600-$700.

Oh, car is currently 245rwkw @ 1.25bar.

Little confused now..

Anyone done a test on the caltex flex-fuel lately?

Going to get an e85 tune done on the car but want it done on e85 not e70. If i have it right, from what you guys have posted, it should be e85 now yes? Cheers.

What you'd be best to do (if you can) is wait until winter rolls around to tune the car for E85. Try and get the tuning done on the coldest day possible (when the cylinder charge density and inj duty cycle will be highest), and then do the on-road tune finish in, again, the most arctic temp you can get (most likely at night).

As most would know, the winter 'E85' blend from Caltex contains the least ethanol. I emailed them a while back to ask what minimum RON rating they specify for E-Flex, and the fuel science guy said it's 105 winter and 106 on summer blend.

Done this way, you should be able to ensure the tune is peachy year 'round.

I thought it was right..

Shaun mentioned e85 at caltex has the least ethanol during winter (where it's really more e70) to help with cold starts?

Just did a 2nd gear WOT check for injector duty on the pfc hc and saw max 69.4% so i've got 30% headroom...just enough for the e85 tune fellas? There's a nismo fuel reg if it's slightly shy i guess but i'd probably prefer not to run it right on the edge.

yer 30% more than your at atm, but its a very rough guess, it varies greatly depending on how your tuner likes to tune e85, some prefer to run it a lot leaner (relative, talking lambda values) than ulp and some run it about the same or richer.

duty cycle works close enough to how much fuel is being used, if you put in 30% more fuel it'd be a tiny bit less than a 30% increase in duty cycle due to latency, but the difference is so small it doesnt matter

Thanks guys. After speaking further with my tuner, we will try and tune my car with the current 550cc's on. I explained to him i'm not looking for a boost increase along with using e85..just looking for gains from timing and cleaner emissions. My turbo is at the end of it's efficiency range anyways.

Plan is to fill up some jerry cans with e85, run the car till the petrol light comes on, pour in 20L of e85...do an extreme rough tune so i can cruise around and empty the tank then fill up with e85 and do a proper tune. The only question that remains is how to deal with Caltex going from e70 - e85 etc. Might just do the tune on rozelle's e85 then fill up with caltex and see if the car still runs ok.. i think.

Thanks guys. After speaking further with my tuner, we will try and tune my car with the current 550cc's on. I explained to him i'm not looking for a boost increase along with using e85..just looking for gains from timing and cleaner emissions. My turbo is at the end of it's efficiency range anyways.

Plan is to fill up some jerry cans with e85, run the car till the petrol light comes on, pour in 20L of e85...do an extreme rough tune so i can cruise around and empty the tank then fill up with e85 and do a proper tune. The only question that remains is how to deal with Caltex going from e70 - e85 etc. Might just do the tune on rozelle's e85 then fill up with caltex and see if the car still runs ok.. i think.

Tune on the fuel you plan to run but include some headroom, 1 afr richer in the petrol scale will do nicely, thats what I run. Perhaps you should invest $250 in a wideband?

  • 3 weeks later...

Roughly how much would I be looking at for a full retune onto E85? Obviously depends on where you go, and how good the tuner is....but for arguments sake, let's say Yavuz @ Unigroup...just wanna know if I can afford it just yet :P

Only way? Call him and ask

  • 2 weeks later...

I dont think it will flow enough I would run twin aeromotive pumps like these, or 2 044's

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/357584-aeromotive-340lph-and-deatchwerks-300lph-in-tank-fuel-pumps/

Or you could get a highflow aeromotive pump in from the US? Has anyone used one of the FEULAB pumps?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FUELAB-Prodigy-High-Flow-Fuel-Pump-1300HP-EFI-/200471272130#ht_1331wt_905

post-63525-0-44469900-1300316193_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
    • Oh and some up-and-comings; New rear drivers wheel bearing. I'll do that this weekend while the diff is out. The car is already up and the d/c axles and missing exhaust will help with space. This is the last bearing for me to do and I've been dragging my feet on it. I also have some new EBC blue stuff pads for the car and some new brake fluid. I haven't ever flushed the fluid in this car and looking forward to it. I have 600 degree fluid to put in. Not exactly "race fluid" but better than the typical stuff I have been using.
    • A proper clutch/plate type mechanical diff with quite a lot of pre-load and high locking % is better for drifting. Much more consistent in its behaviour. A helical can be annoyingly vague and inconsistent in how it responds under the sorts of abuse found in drifting.
    • Some updates here. I pulled the entire interior out, minus some trim to respray the seats with Colourlock dye. It turned out really nice though I accidentally let the dog in the car after and she scratched up the front seat.  This is what it looked like before, the colour was just washing out everywhere but thankfully the leather was in good nic. Then after the respray   And after the bloody dog jumped in The headliner is out waiting to be retrimmed, but it will stay out now until Nov - see why below. I replaced the stereo/headunit with a period-styled Android headunit. I have no after pics, but I'll get some. This is because of the missing pixels. I tried to fix this twice with replacement ribbon cables but couldn't. Also the bluetooth interface I'd bought for this was crap. Then there's the rusty roof. Pics and info in this other thread. I have decided to get this repaired professionally, but I'll update that thread. This is why the headliner will stay out for now. I'll be getting the roof and bonnet resprayed at the same time the rust is fixed. I also had an interesting issue with my drivers door lock.  For a small period I was having issues getting any 12v power to the car - I mean *any*. It would have no dash lights, nothing. It happened while I was at the shops and I couldn't get in the car. So, we had 2 problems. The most pressing here is that I was locked out. I have only a single physical key hole on the car, the drivers door and no amount of turning would unlock the car. Surely it doesn't need power for this? The second issue is why am I losing all power periodically, The battery isn't dead, its almost like the battery isn't even there. Two issues that were surprisingly easy to fix. You fellow BMW over-engineering lovers will appreciate this. The lock in the door has 5 states; mechanical lock, electric lock, neutral, electric unlock, mechanical unlock achieved at -90 degrees, -45 degrees, 0 degrees, 45 degrees and 90 degrees. Although, the unlock is towards the front of the car, so opposite for LHD countries. Sticking the key in and turning 45 left or right is what is used 99% of the time. It activates the central locking etc. 90 degrees is for dead battery access and, obvs, only un/locks the one door. But because the mechanical lock is never used and is 27 years old, it seizes up. I was totally unable to turn the key far enough to get to the mechanical unlock (At the time of locking myself out, I didn't even know this was a thing). I eventually did it with some vicegrips and teflon spray.  I made a quick vid for other E39 peeps.   The battery issue is totally new to me also - It wasn't making sufficient contact between the post and the terminal. The terminal was bolted on tight, but the car wouldn't have power. After checking the battery with my multimeter I accidentally contacted the terminal and the battery post and the car got power. The battery was only a few years old and in good condition. I cleaned the post and the terminal with a wire brush, bolted it back on tight and never had the issue again. I'm still surprised that despite having solid contact it didn't work. Also, the car was getting Warragamba sized pools of water in the back when it rained. My initial concern was another rust problem. But when I went out on Weds while it was raining and while I had no headliner in I could see a steady stream of water coming through the roof mounted aerial. As this aerial is for the (now removed) car phone I pulled it out and whacked a blanking grommet in the hole. It seems fine now. I'm thinking I might get the hole permanently filled when the rust is fixed. Moving forward and things in progress; The tailgate needs some attention. I have taken all the trim off to clean it all and address some small rust spots. I have partially done all of this but I'll finish it up hopefully this weekend. As all the trim are now entirely devoid of trim clips I have bought a heap of strong velcro and I'm hoping it does a good enough job as any of this trim in good condition is super expensive and usually in Europe as we dont have many of the wagons here. Suspension and brakes!!! This is exciting. In the front; New control arms New sway bar links New lower Eibach springs (the only modification I'm planning on this car) M Sport shocks (these came with the car and will replace the longer shocks in the car) New top mounts Used 540i calipers (stock brakes suck!) New 540i disks and pads (22x296 mm for 528 and 30x334 mm for 540i) New front wheel bearings (thank all that is holy for bolt on bearings!) Annnnd in the back; New control arms New sway bar links Adjustable air suspension arms (fool the car into what the current height is so the self levelling suspension can match the new front ride height) New ball joints I'll also be doing a brake fluid flush while I'm in there. I'm planning on switching the car over to the 16's that came with it so I can clean up and respray the M Sport 17's. They've lost a lot of colour over the years and have some gutter rash. None of this will start until the E90 is back.
    • You mean you will regret it for drifting duties? I don't quite follow.
×
×
  • Create New...