Jump to content
SAU Community

Guilt-toy Now Running On E85 !

Guilt-Toy

By Guilt-Toy,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Guilt-Toy
Guilt-Toy

Did you know.... The first production car the Ford Model T 1908 was flex fuel compatible ? It could run just as good on ethanol as did on gasoline. There was a brass knob on the right side of the stee

Guilt-Toy
Guilt-Toy

so i got a bit keen today and went for a drive to the united and grabbed 40 litres of e85. went to try and syphon it and got it on my lips, damn it burnt!! so i gave up on that idea.... we had a s

Birds
Birds

Mick, I don't see the point of pushing every last kw out of an engine in a daily driver. I mean each to their own and all that - bit different for track cars. A tune will forever be a compromise betwe

Posted Images

Gareth87 Community Regular

Gareth87

Posted
Posted

Running an old Wolf V4 that struggles a bit to get the tune refined.

Using 550cc RX7 injectors now but will run 910 siemens injectors if I switch to E85.

Obviously the bigger injectors will struggle more to find a good tune, but has anyone here tried tuning big injectors on a fairly old school ecu with E85? is it a harder fuel to tune or will it be easier due to the fact that it requires more fuel for the same power levels?

Will injector quality help this?

Don't wanna build a big fuel system with the works, get it to the dyno and find the ECU is just struggling overtime.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

I don't think you would have an issue if you went with Bosch ev14's, not sure about the Siemens.

I recommend the Xspurt 1000's for e85 use, even ID's have apparently had issues with e85 coagulating to jelly, I suspect after mixing with the flow test fluid they use, and warranty returns to the US can be pointless. Guys, make sure you run ID's on petrol first.

ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

I don't think you would have an issue if you went with Bosch ev14's, not sure about the Siemens.

I recommend the Xspurt 1000's for e85 use, even ID's have apparently had issues with e85 coagulating to jelly, I suspect after mixing with the flow test fluid they use, and warranty returns to the US can be pointless. Guys, make sure you run ID's on petrol first.

yes but NOW they have a released an injector that is alcohol friendly.. :rolleyes:

you notice how it is exactly 30% bigger than there old ones :rofl:

Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
Posted

ID725, 850, 1000 compatible with all known fuels. Compatible does not mean they aren't susceptible to problems caused by ethanol's love for gobbling up water, IF you abuse the injectors by letting ethanol sit in your tank for months they will die, this is common sense. ID1300 being stainless internals will have better resistance to corrosion IF there is water in the fuel. This is more likely in a race car that sees no action between meetings, with the older IDs you should pickle the engine by running it on petrol but with the ID1300 this is less important. In a road car seeing regular use I'm not seeing a massive advantage for the 1300's, heaps of people running 1000's + E85 without failures.

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

Yes I think the same of the stainless 1300s and if demand is there they may do the short 850 GMs and 1000s as well .

I can see where 1000s could be limiting on a 4 cylinder but 6s get an easier time with similar power outputs .

It's logical that a good injector sized properly will make the best of a more basic computer .

A .

Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
Posted

Yeah would be nice, I ummed and aaahhed about the 1300's but they are quite a bit more expensive and at low pulsewidths they have a bit of ugly non-linearity. Totally doesn't matter for race cars, but I tend to think for road cars they might not be quite as well mannered as the regular offerings. I just ordered a set of short ID850-GM for my car so it fits under the inlet manifold more easily. Since my power goal is only around 250rwkw and it's a daily, 850cc is plenty. I'm not sure how frequently I'll run ethanol, it comes down to cost. I would like to run it regularly but time will tell.

Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
Posted

Stao is making over 400rwkw using 800cc injectors and E85. That's plenty :P I couldn't afford new tyres at the rate 400rwkw would blow through them!

Definitely keen on running E85.. :) should be fun. I wouldn't run 91 octane in a fit, I guess what I said came across as cheap.. if I can get a good E85 tune then I will probably run it more.

Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
Posted

Already posted in the hypergear thread and they said just go for it.

But I was wondering if anyone here knows how much power on E85 HKS 555 injectors could make.

Been running them in on my 98 tune for the past year making 250rwkw.

Thinking about going E85 but don't want to fork out for new injectors again.

Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
Posted

Already posted in the hypergear thread and they said just go for it.

But I was wondering if anyone here knows how much power on E85 HKS 555 injectors could make.

Been running them in on my 98 tune for the past year making 250rwkw.

Thinking about going E85 but don't want to fork out for new injectors again.

E85 uses approx 30% more fuel than PULP. If you can multiply your current tune's duty cycle by 1.30 then you will get your new duty cycle (near enough), as long as that's less than 85% you're good to go.

A mate has an R33 with Nismo 555's and is making 240rwkw at about 45% duty. So there is heaps of headroom to run E85 on the same setup.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Already posted in the hypergear thread and they said just go for it.

But I was wondering if anyone here knows how much power on E85 HKS 555 injectors could make.

Been running them in on my 98 tune for the past year making 250rwkw.

Thinking about going E85 but don't want to fork out for new injectors again.

I keep telling people to go the 1000's but they insist on buying 5-600's, then complain when they max out. Just buy them and sell the 555's to some other sucker. :P

Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
Posted

That adds extra money to my plans scotty :(

I'm not made of money dude!
Can you move to Canberra so I can have you do all my welding etc

Clutch will max out at 300 anyways.

So only wanted to get about 280-285

My gearbox has been out 3 times already so I'm not too keen to go down the slippery slope of upgrade after upgrade

Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
Posted

Haha okay you talked me into it scotty!! fark!
I'm crashing at your place if I get kicked out for not paying rent.

Also now you have to help me with what highflowing E85 injectors I should be getting to fit in my stock rail.

Don't go telling me to purchase a new rail as well haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ToothDR32
      $5 Clock upgrade for R32 GTR

      By ToothDR32 · Posted

      Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...