Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i just finnished giving mine a clean and they came up pretty clear ive tried 4 different products and the best 1 that ive used is the meguiars mirror glaze proffesional series number 17 clear plastic cleaner in a little white bottle 236ml and its the best ive used its almost got rid of all the crap on the headlights will need 2 do a little bit more 2 get it clear as im a bit drunk 2 get it done properely :P

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I'll be able to correct those just as in the pics Daniel (Goshn) has posted.

Most R34's have this issue and most of the time it's on the outside of the lens.

I can't correct the pitting though, just the minor scratches & the faded/oxidised film on the outside, they'll be clear again.

Please make a booking on 9387 8008 and we'll have her fixed up :down:

Cheers,

d.

do a lot of country driving?

I've done a bit, they're not stone chips though. It's as though the plastic has been stressed somehow. Like miniature cracks all through it.

Email replied to Damian.

For those wondering, the Meguires PlastX stuff works a treat, i was extremely sceptical but i went down and bought a bottle of it today and an applicator pad, they came up looking like a brand new set of lights minus a few stone chips, definatly worth the $19, will post pics if anyone is interested when i get them off my phone

  • 2 months later...

ive tried plastX, scratchX & even normal polish with a orbital and its still yellowy/foggy which im pretty sure its all in the inside now. i dont want to sand the lights down just incase i ruin it so ill just get a professional to open it up and clean the insides.

any further recommendations ?

  • 2 weeks later...

Gentlemen,

Be warned - polishishing headlights with some of the above mentioned products is doing more damage than good. A new light has a sealer that stops it from yellowing under sun exposure. You need to use a product that replaces the sealer after you polish. this way your not redoing the job every 3 months and doing more damage.

One word "Glassylite"

google it / ebay it / flickr it / youtube it.

Edited by R34GT-T

i always wax my headlights after a polish, with OCW. Has UV(b?) filters/blockers, etc... my headlights have held up fine 8 months after their last polish. But it's inevitable that they'll revert at some stage, but a 5 minute job with the RO, plus Edge green on with IP 3.01 and we're laughing again. This $100 dismantling job is a bit of a rip-off IMO

  • 3 months later...

Hey guys thought this thread might help me fix my cloudy drivers side headlight. So I bought myself some plasticX and although I removed what I could from the outside the headlight is still cloudy! Further investigation revealed that the plastic mounts on the housing have cracked and now have left a nice hole... So I am convinced that I need to clean the inside of the headlight and patch the hole. However no one has advised how to attempt this. There has been mention of removing the headlight and placing it in the oven and heating it until it is soft enough to separate, but no positive statement that anyone has done this. So my questions are:

1) How do I SAFELY open the headlight

2) Should I use plasticX on the inside or just a car wash and let it dry?

3) How to reseal the headlight.. Basically can I just reheat it until it is soft and sticky again and then clamp it shut and cool?

Cheers dudes and dudettes

Edited by chrisR34GTT

After polishing with Meguiars Plastx I always put a coating of PLEXUS on the headlights and even tail lights

http://www.plexusplasticcleaner.com/plexus.html

http://www.whitworths.com.au/main_itemdeta...tAbsolutePage=2

  • 1 month later...

I just got that Glassylite product off ebay (about $40) it comes as a kit incl. 2 different wet sand papers, a polish and the all-important sealant that's supposed to stop the issue from reoccurring... gonna try it today. Will let you know how it turns out. I have the same sort of crap like llama_au above, it looks more like stress fractures than oxidation.

Mine have actually looked pretty good since the last time I hit them with PlastX which would have been a good four months ago or so. Maybe just takes repeated use and a lot of extra force. I'm pretty weak.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, you're wrong, and you've always been wrong about this. The Nismo has 2 sets of openings. One is a real 2-way, and the other is a 1-way. There is no 1.5-way possible with the ramps that they offer. A real 1.5-way does exist. That Cusco stuff I posted is a prime example. If the forward drive ramps are, say 55°, and the overrun ramps are, say, 30°, then you will get about half as much LSD effect on overrun than you do on drive. It is real, it realy works. OK, you're slightly right. The Nismo has 55° and 45° ramps on the 2-way, so it does offer less LSD effect on overrun. But, I think that just means that they've (probably) sensibly established that you do not want actually equal LSD effect on overrun. You just want "quite a lot, but not quite as much as the drive LSD effect".
    • Just wanted to unearth this and post my baby with the new front ❤️😝 Took her to my wedding rehearsal today. Next up is getting wide skirts (after wedding)
    • Yea, that is what I was getting at in my ramblings too. The nismo one actually is a 1.5 way and a 1 way. They don't do a *2* way because a true *2* way would have equal ramp angles. Or is that a true 1.5 way? Realistically I think a "1.5 way" does not actually exist. A diff can either lock in two directions or one. It also doesn't help that a LOT of people in Australia speak about 1.5 way diffs are referring to their 1 way diff.
    • Well, the trouble with that ^^ is: The configuration shown is absolutely a 1-way, not a 1.5-way. There is no way that a 1.5-way can be said to offer LSD action only on acceleration. If Nismo cannot get that right, then it is impossible to believe their documentation. That ^ is not a 1.5 way setup. That is a 1-way.   And so now I have allowed all doubts to flourish and have gone back to look at the MotoIQ video. I originally made the mistake of believing him when he said "this is a 1.5-way" at the ~6:10 mark. Because what he did was take the gear assembly out of the 2-way opening and just rotate it one place to the left to drop it into the 1-way opening. When he dropped it in there, the cam was "backwards" compared to the correct orientation shown in all other photos of that config. The flat shold have been facing the 1° ramp side of the opening, not the 55° ramp side. And I thought, "gee that's cute", but I was concerned at the time, when he put the other ring back on, that the gap between the rings looked like it was wider then in the 2-way config. And then I said a lot of things in my long post on Tuesday that could only make sense if the guy from MotoIQ was correct about what he'd done. BUT... I have now done my homework. I grabbed a frame of the video with the 2-way config, and then grabbed another with the "1.5-way" config, snipped out the cam and opening of that frame and just pasted it direct on top of the 2-way config. I scaled it so that the triangular opening was almost exactly the same height in both. AND.... the gap between the plates is wider with the cam installed in the triangualr opening backwards. That is.... it cannot go together that way. There would be massive force on the plates all the time, if you could even reassemble it.  So, My statement on the matter? The Nismo diff is actually only a 2-way and 1-way. There is no 1.5-way option in it, regardless of what they say. Here's a photo of a real 1.5-way ramp opening from Cusco (along with the 1 way option). And the full set of 1 through 2 way options from their racing diff, which is not same-same as what we'd typically be using, but...the cams work the same. A little blurry, but it comes from this Cusco doc, which is quite helpful. AND.... Cusco do in fact do what I suggested would be sensible, which is to have rings that do 1 and 1.5, and 1.5 and 2. Separately.  
×
×
  • Create New...