Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeh basically as the title says i have been chasing a manual rwd stagea for a while now but to no prevail.

but seeing tho the AWD can be made into RWD quite easilly i then decided RWD wasnt a nesessaty.

then i decided im going to do sum sort of engine conversion eventually into my stagea so changing from auto to manual at the time wont cost a great deal. compared to the price diff between auto and manual stageas atm.

so i just decided any old awd auto/manual stagea will do me fine.

but cnt decide between series 1 and 2.... was the major differences apart from the lights in the grill?

yeh basically as the title says i have been chasing a manual rwd stagea for a while now but to no prevail.

but seeing tho the AWD can be made into RWD quite easilly i then decided RWD wasnt a nesessaty.

then i decided im going to do sum sort of engine conversion eventually into my stagea so changing from auto to manual at the time wont cost a great deal. compared to the price diff between auto and manual stageas atm.

so i just decided any old awd auto/manual stagea will do me fine.

but cnt decide between series 1 and 2.... was the major differences apart from the lights in the grill?

There is just such a thread on the next page (scroll down to the bottom and click on next page). BTW it is not easy to convert AWD into RWD ...if you're going to repower it just get a n/a car which are mostly RWD.

The RWD and AWD stagea's are quite different structually, and while you CAN run an AWD stagea in RWD mode, there is no real advantage because you are still carrying around all the extra weight of the attessa system. You COULD get your hands on a NA version, but if you are in Australia you will never be able to get it complied as they don't get covered under our SEVS ruling.

i'd get a s1 because they are cheaper and look alot better :P s2 fronts are shocking, definately a turn off in my book anyway.

*gets ready for flaming* :teehee:

if your changing from auto to manual u can just use a rb25 gtst box and it will get rid of the tf case, and an engine conversion will say goodbye to the front diff and sump arrangment. Then all u need is to pull the cv joints out of the front axles and just leave the part that bolts into the hub to hold the wheel bearing in and its done. Oh and remove the atessa pumps above the rear diff if u want.

i'd probably just get the rwd version if u had the choice between the two, but converting a 4wd to 2wd isnt a big drama at all.

:):P:spank::rant:

hehehe nice!

i do like the ser1 front, but its gotta be ser2 rs4s FTW!!!

if ur gonna go manual rwd then i dont think its worth getting a 4wd auto. i think u can get rwd turbo stags. it would save alot of work. but i guess if its cheaper and u have the skills then go for it. just dont forget to post up all ur wicked skid videos. :D

Edited by Raysboostin
its gotta be ser2 rs4s FTW!!!

:P

I think the rwd manual thing has been covered before, and from what my rather damaged

memory can recall, rwd stagea's werent available in manual??? im sure someone will correct

me if im wrong!

so there are NA stageas out there? but they cant be complied in aus? so theres no point in me owning one then ay cause i live in QLD...

well my eventual goals are to put a twin charged ls1 into my stagea and RWD it, so yeh i wuld prefer a stock RWD turbo or non turbo dnt phase me, and auto/manual isnt to much of a problem. rwd > awd is my major concern atm and yeh trying to find a rwd aint easy.

well, in that case you wil DEFINITELY want a RWD stagea complied in australia (the RWD stageas have a completely different shock tower arrangement and a little more room in the engine bay - this is what you will need for a wide angle LS1)

Stageas were offered all the way down to a RWD only powered by a NA RB20E

*shudders*

although why you would want one that spec is a little beyond me....

I'd say the single biggest difference between s1 & s2 is a HUGE 60NM MORE TORQUE in the s2 and at 1000RPM LESS!!

Basically its going to get up and go a lot easier and feel a lot more effortless. The extra ~20kw is just icing on the cake.

In comparison to both, the M35 is only ~30kg heavier and has ~70NM more torque again than the s2, and at the same revs as where the s2 makes its peak torque. So as you can imagine the M35 feels a lot more nimble than the s2.

Torque makes a big difference, particularly in such a heavy car. It also is one of the reasons for the better fuel economy. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oof, I will forevermore have those shredded gears in mind whenever someone talks about showing mechanical sympathy towards their car. Thanks for the photos, fascinating stuff!
    • Curious to see how the SpeedTek stuff holds up
    • The holdups last year were drivetrain related. I had the car out right after getting the bearing issue resolved. Third launch and the car didn't move after releasing the clutch. It had sheared all the engagement teeth off the 1st gear.    Thankfully no other damage was done. I set an aftermarket gear beside an OEM gear and found that the engagement teeth on the OEM gear were much larger and better supported. Looking through my bin of spare transmission gears I found that there are two types of tooth on the OEM first gears - the larger tooth and the smaller tooth. It looks like most aftermarket gearset manufacturers base their design on the smaller tooth. OEM large tooth left - Speedtek, OS Giken, etc or OEM small tooth right Decided to give that larger engagement tooth a try. Pressed the ring off an OEM gear and sent it to a transmission manufacturer here in the States. They did their "faceplating" operation with my synchro ring on the Speedtek gear.   I reassembled it, took it back to the track and promptly destroyed the gear itself.  I'll rebuild this and use it as a spare - thankfully just first gear and the countershaft are damaged beyond repair. Definitely disheartening but my welded on engagement tooth ring held up!  Moved to Speedtek's dog engagement design as the gears appear to be much stronger. So far they have taken much more abuse at the track. Also scored a Stillway lockout from the Netherands for super cheap. It's for some other RB transmission so it took a bit of fabrication to fit but honestly a very easy job. I also had to heavily modify the gates as they were very different.   Then for some reason at the last test and tune a silicon coupler below the throttle blew off and took out the radiator and fan. Thankfully it was in the burnout box and not down track. This car is really beating me up - I still haven't made a pass in it. Ran it through the gears many times on the street but it keeps biting me at the track.  Currently in the process of replacing the radiator and remaking the throttle pipe to remove the coupler and use a cast 90 and a vband. I WILL get this thing down the track...
    • Covers most of the above points really. There's a few exceptions but most just see driving as an irritating but necessary task they must complete if they want to get anywhere on time. Also see it as a good time to show their awesome multi-tasking abilities on their mobile and/or doing their makeup.  
    • I don't believe I posted pictures of the second oil pump pickup I added so here they are. Data shows it gets oil pressure up to the relief pressure much earlier in the RPM. Is that important? Not likely... This was just another attempt to fix the bearing issues.   I also heavily opened up the inlet to the pump since it now had to flow oil from two pickups. I believe the diameter increased about 1/8".
×
×
  • Create New...