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And a billion more cans of WD40 or similar...
Yep give them a good spray and leave them overnight . Before applying twisting torque give them a good tap end on with a hammer. I call the extractor things ezy-outs which may or may not be a brand name. Use a small drill to make a hole as central as possible and then enlarge the hole before tapping in the extractor tool. Not a nice job. Good luck.
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I can think of much better stuff to have in cans.lol

A local guy came to see me last night. He is going to fix. He has a special kit that uses left hand drill bits so th stud remnants wont tighten as you drill. He said in a lot of cases the stud bit comes out while drilling.

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I can think of much better stuff to have in cans.lol

A local guy came to see me last night. He is going to fix. He has a special kit that uses left hand drill bits so th stud remnants wont tighten as you drill. He said in a lot of cases the stud bit comes out while drilling.

left handed drill bits sound good.. i want some

im upgrading my turb to a high flow.. swapped 2 of my mountain bikes for it.. was thinking of doing it myself but it could turn into a nightmare so might leave it to the pros.. hope all ends up well for u.. sourced yourself a new turb yet?

Edited by jippa
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I can think of much better stuff to have in cans.lol

A local guy came to see me last night. He is going to fix. He has a special kit that uses left hand drill bits so th stud remnants wont tighten as you drill. He said in a lot of cases the stud bit comes out while drilling.

Sorry to hear you're having such a hard time of it... my old studs all came out pretty easy with just a lock-nut and ratchet. They look near new. I was beginning to wonder if there was anything to this stud problem... but sounds like you have the proof. Taking any pics along the way?

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left handed drill bits sound good.. i want some

im upgrading my turb to a high flow.. swapped 2 of my mountain bikes for it.. was thinking of doing it myself but it could turn into a nightmare so might leave it to the pros.. hope all ends up well for u.. sourced yourself a new turb yet?

Actually it transpired there was SFA wrong with the turbo but I have got a spare JIC. I"m takink pics all the way. When saga is over will post all.

Incidently, what are the best type of studs, I will be replacing all of them.

Edited by 66yostagea
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$2-3 at a guess

one of the traders here at SAU seems to be getting good prices on gaskets etc in the FS section

Damn, wish I knew that before I paid a couple hundred for gaskets ;)

Yeah I used genuine nissan ones; I have a picture of the packet around here somewhere... they cost me ~$40 for a dozen I think? Which is the absolute maximum it should cost you really. There's nothing special about them; just mild steel although they do have some fancy high-temp coating. But the ones I took out were at least 110,000 K's old and they looked near new (just a little duller) so yeah put them in with some nickel-based high-temperature anti-sieze anti-bind compound (a tiny tiny bit on the end threads of the stud) when you put them in the block and they should be fine for at least another 100,000K's.

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Here we are... genuine Nissan nuts (conical type locking):

post-32445-1226402195_thumb.jpg

...and the genuine Nissan studs & hi-temp anti-sieze/bind compound I used on the studs:

post-32445-1226402206_thumb.jpg

Nuts cost me ~$21 for a dozen (:()

Studs cost me ~$50 for a dozen ( :domokun: ) so I was had a little there... but they were just down the road and it was convenience factor :) Now studs are done :P

btw, spoke to the turbo guy and the first thing he recommended was to change out all old studs if possible and re-fit exhaust manifold after checking for cracks; which apparently are usually small and white and often seen running through the pale blue/grey sections of the exhaust manifold (which are where it has become really hot).

You can see a few of these blueish-grey areas here:

post-32445-1226402567_thumb.jpg

...fairly obvious where they are eh :)

Good luck all :(

PS Gee u get some crud building up in the exhaust ports...

post-32445-1226402790_thumb.jpg

Edited by DaveB
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Not knowing which valves are open or closed means not knowing which cylinders the stuff will fall straight into; I had a bit of a go with the small brass-bristled brush which is why you can see some of it chipped away, but I didn't want to go too far in over the valves. I'm just hoping that using good fuel (ie. Ultimate or VPower) will keep it clean...

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It doesn't matter if you get UCC in the cylinders, it's designed to burn off if it gets into the combustion chambers - you'll find that the car will blow a shitload of white smoke for about 10secs but it'll clear up after.

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It doesn't matter if you get UCC in the cylinders, it's designed to burn off if it gets into the combustion chambers - you'll find that the car will blow a shitload of white smoke for about 10secs but it'll clear up after.

no flames? :P

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I wonder if you could spray some upper cylinder cleaner in there and use a toothbrush to clean them out?

Takers?

Tooth brush? Were talking cast iron here - get one of those wire brushes you put in a drill and give it heaps.

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Tooth brush? Were talking cast iron here - get one of those wire brushes you put in a drill and give it heaps.

That's what I used to clean just inside the ports... but I was too worried about debris/bits of metal bristles getting in the cylinders to go any deeper

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