Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The guy that signed me off didnt really care didnt check anything and was a bit odd... convo went something like this:

Me: Hello, here to get this signed off.

Cop: So you have made the repairs?

Me: Yeah.

Cop: ARE YOU SURE?

Me: Uhh... Yeah. Cars outside if you want to check.

Cop: Uh huhhh...

Cop: *begins to fill in form*

Cop: Whens your Regency appointment?

Me: 21st of this month

Cop: ARE YOU SURE?

Me: Yeah...

Cop: Uh huhhh...

Cop: *finishes filling out the form*

Me: Thanks.

The guy that signed me off didnt really care didnt check anything and was a bit odd... convo went something like this:

Me: Hello, here to get this signed off.

Cop: So you have made the repairs?

Me: Yeah.

Cop: ARE YOU SURE?

Me: Uhh... Yeah. Cars outside if you want to check.

Cop: Uh huhhh...

Cop: *begins to fill in form*

Cop: Whens your Regency appointment?

Me: 21st of this month

Cop: ARE YOU SURE?

Me: Yeah...

Cop: Uh huhhh...

Cop: *finishes filling out the form*

Me: Thanks.

ARE YOU SURE thats how it went? ;)

Okay guys. I just read through 18 pages of this.

Is it really as bad as it seems? I'm a P plater currently and will be driving a 33 soon...

Engine Mods

*TO3-4 turbo

*G-ready plenum

*Injectors

*Headers

*GTR intercooler

*GTR fuel pump

*Oil cooler

*Double plated clutch

*Up graded brakes

*3 1/2 inch exhaust system

Interior

*Recaro bucket seat

*Grey dash

*Turbo timer

*Boost gauge

*Pioneer sound system

Exterior

*400R full body kit

*17 inch white rims

*Tinted windows

*No dents and good paint

That's the specs there for the car.

I have to drive down Grand junction road to Old port road 5 days a week.

Am I gonna get defected on my first day?

Also. Exactly how much does an engineers certificate cost? Would it be expensive for the list of modifications there?

Currently drive an MZ20 but it's a dead sleeper, cops pull me over and don't even know it's a turbo.

To get the said car up there through regency, exactly what would I have to take off it?

Awaiting your opinions...

Cheers,

Aleks

Okay guys. I just read through 18 pages of this.

Is it really as bad as it seems? I'm a P plater currently and will be driving a 33 soon...

Engine Mods

*TO3-4 turbo

*G-ready plenum

*Injectors

*Headers

*GTR intercooler

*GTR fuel pump

*Oil cooler

*Double plated clutch

*Up graded brakes

*3 1/2 inch exhaust system

Interior

*Recaro bucket seat

*Grey dash

*Turbo timer

*Boost gauge

*Pioneer sound system

Exterior

*400R full body kit

*17 inch white rims

*Tinted windows

*No dents and good paint

That's the specs there for the car.

I have to drive down Grand junction road to Old port road 5 days a week.

Am I gonna get defected on my first day?

Also. Exactly how much does an engineers certificate cost? Would it be expensive for the list of modifications there?

Currently drive an MZ20 but it's a dead sleeper, cops pull me over and don't even know it's a turbo.

To get the said car up there through regency, exactly what would I have to take off it?

Awaiting your opinions...

Cheers,

Aleks

urrrhhhhhhhh everything?

Okay guys. I just read through 18 pages of this.

Is it really as bad as it seems? I'm a P plater currently and will be driving a 33 soon...

Engine Mods

*TO3-4 turbo > stock

*G-ready plenum > stock

*Injectors

*Headers > stock

*GTR intercooler piping must be neat and hole cut must be neat and sealed off with primer/paint/sealer to prevent rust etc..

*GTR fuel pump

*Oil cooler depending on how it was done and if it has braided lines they must be ADR approved

*Double plated clutch

*Up graded brakes all rotors/pads are fine, depending if the calipers have been upgraded?

*3 1/2 inch exhaust system Must be under 90db last time i checked so could be wrong (replace muffler)

Interior

*Recaro bucket seat must recline and be ADR approved

*Grey dash

*Turbo timer > stock

*Boost gauge depending where it is

*Pioneer sound system

Exterior

*400R full body kit

*17 inch white rims depends on width, tyres must be on or over legal parameters (yes they sometimes check load ratings on tyres)

*Tinted windows fronts max 75%, rear 30%, most likely gonna have to remove

*No dents and good paint

That's the specs there for the car.

I have to drive down Grand junction road to Old port road 5 days a week.

Am I gonna get defected on my first day? YES, haha jk depends if you're in the wrong place at the right time

Also. Exactly how much does an engineers certificate cost? Would it be expensive for the list of modifications there? to engineer oversized rims (more than 2" up, 1" wider than stock) is around 3.5k so im told.. good luck with the rest unless you are sleeping with an engineer

Currently drive an MZ20 but it's a dead sleeper, cops pull me over and don't even know it's a turbo. nice cars

To get the said car up there through regency, exactly what would I have to take off it?

Awaiting your opinions...

Cheers,

Aleks

basically, clean the car up, don't drive like a wanker, have a good attitude and you might just make it through but if you do get defected be prepared to return lots of things to stock, fix leaks if any, fix bushes if any are worn etc etc...

things like injectors, fuel pump, clutch etc.. they usually overlook if the engine appears overly stock so shouldn't have too much trouble there

i may not be 100% correct about all the above but it gives you a pretty good idea

good luck with it!

Edited by tx3_90
basically, clean the car up, don't drive like a wanker, have a good attitude and you might just make it through but if you do get defected be prepared to return lots of things to stock, fix leaks if any, fix bushes if any are worn etc etc...

things like injectors, fuel pump, clutch etc.. they usually overlook if the engine appears overly stock so shouldn't have too much trouble there

i may not be 100% correct about all the above but it gives you a pretty good idea

good luck with it!

I was hoping some would be over lookable. Rims don't look overly huge, they're kinda small. The car's neat, spoiler's been taken off, no bling no nothin.

Aleks

Okay guys. I just read through 18 pages of this.

Is it really as bad as it seems? I'm a P plater currently and will be driving a 33 soon...

I have to drive down Grand junction road to Old port road 5 days a week.

Am I gonna get defected

Aleks

lol, Aleks.......is the Pope Catholic?

I hate to say this bud but after this post, the officer in question may keep an eye out for you.

Welcome aboard anyway champ :P

lol, Aleks.......is the Pope Catholic?

I hate to say this bud but after this post, the officer in question may keep an eye out for you.

Welcome aboard anyway champ :P

Thanks ;)

I hope not though, car's a sleeper ;)

Aleks

you'll be ok mate. my car's a sleeper too.

no issues in the ownership of it, and none with the v8 sedan before that....would be right on 9yrs now without any issues, personally

drive sensibly and never get a speeding fine. drive 100% concentrating on whats around you, good posture, good steady clean control - no fkn about, and you'll be fine

enjoy your experiences!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...