Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All you can really do is try and keep your ride within the laws...

If you have obvious defects, you're going to get done. It's as simple as that.

If you want to stay entirely within the law, this will ultimately puts limits on outright power that's achievable without going through engineering & a full emissions inspection as you're not going to be able to replace/change turbos, upgrade injectors, replace AFMs, etc.

What exactly is engineering your car?? had a look on the site steve posted but what can they do I don't really get it? if your car has illegal modifications can they somehow make it legal? Or am I completely misunderstanding

What exactly is engineering your car?? had a look on the site steve posted but what can they do I don't really get it? if your car has illegal modifications can they somehow make it legal? Or am I completely misunderstanding

You either prove the modifications already comply with ADRs or you alter them to comply with ADRs, hence showing that they are in fact already legal, or you make them legal.

Ahh... May have to look into it. alter as in how? how would you alter modifications like turbo (high mount too) or injectors to make legal?Would it mess with power and the cars tune

anything to do with the engine must remain stock. when you change anything, its considered 'not factory certified by design' which means that the emissions laws come into effect

You can build whatever you want, if you can get all the supporting technical documentation to certify its safety and emissions (and probably other things - I remember reading a post SLED made about the rake of his bike, wasn't to spec by our laws so he had to redesign the front end which was a PITA - just to point out that there are laws but also a flexibility as I believe the SLED was fabricated from scratch. I could be wrong on that.

I remember theres a bloke who chucked a ww2 spitfire engine (24 litre rolls royce) in an old school american car and I >think< he even got it certified road legal (even though it did something like 2000 horsepower)

-D

yeah, they can pull u over because they "suspect" the car is defectable...

then if they cant find any obvious defects they can defect u for "suspicion" of modification to your vechicle...

this is true, but if you are 100% sure that they're wrong (ie its all legal and you have engineering certificates) then you take them to court and you get your expenses overturned, some pathetic amount to placate your inconvenience, and a rebuke to the officer in question.

Its like pissing into the wind, metaphorically speaking. You might prove your point but sapol, like any company, has a sophisticated pr division skilled in damage control. you'll hear something like 'said officers were stood down' which means theyre chilling behind a desk on full pay.

that said, if your car isnt roadworthy or uncertified, well I guess it could be argued they're working in your advantage. Hell, even the ford pinto was notorious for exploding in rear end collisions, yet it was still considered a roadworthy vehicle till it was recalled. Its all nonsense.

-D

Ahh... May have to look into it. alter as in how? how would you alter modifications like turbo (high mount too) or injectors to make legal?Would it mess with power and the cars tune

You have to pass an IM240 test, it is a full spectrum emissions test, to pass it you need generally fairly low boost, and the AFRs have to be perfect, too lean and you fail on nitrogen compounds, too rich and you fail on carbon monoxide, you also have to pass on CO2 which is effected by how much torque the motor is making, eg boost.

So you need a tuner that is willing to do his best to get it right, then come along to the test and tweak it as you will most likely fail the first time. You get 3 shots I think, then another $1000 and come back another time. You also then need upgraded brakes for the extra power, they will need to do a lane change test, so you have to pay for a driver and track hire. It adds up fast, hence why so many people just go highflowed stock and keep the car looking stock so it passes with 300kw, it is easy to do, just no aftermarket looking turbos.

this is true, but if you are 100% sure that they're wrong (ie its all legal and you have engineering certificates) then you take them to court and you get your expenses overturned, some pathetic amount to placate your inconvenience, and a rebuke to the officer in question.

This is the only time it is worth challenging it, when you know the car will pass first time and it does in fact pass first time. Even then it is a huge waste of your time, but it will prove a point.

Edited by Rolls

You have to pass an IM240 test, it is a full spectrum emissions test, to pass it you need generally fairly low boost, and the AFRs have to be perfect, too lean and you fail on nitrogen compounds, too rich and you fail on carbon monoxide, you also have to pass on CO2 which is effected by how much torque the motor is making, eg boost.

So you need a tuner that is willing to do his best to get it right, then come along to the test and tweak it as you will most likely fail the first time. You get 3 shots I think, then another $1000 and come back another time. You also then need upgraded brakes for the extra power, they will need to do a lane change test, so you have to pay for a driver and track hire. It adds up fast, hence why so many people just go highflowed stock and keep the car looking stock so it passes with 300kw, it is easy to do, just no aftermarket looking turbos.

I have not yet seen any highflow turbo's making more than 240-250rwkw.

I have not yet seen any highflow turbo's making more than 240-250rwkw.

Not a single setup, but GTR's can use the same housing, turbine specs and use metal rather than ceramic, good for up to 320kw apparently. In fact, any of the 2860 series of turbos can have a certificate stating that they are aftermarket replacements (MTQ does this I know) and I think they go all the way up toe 400 odd kw (which is pretty damn decent for an otherwise stock setup)...

-D

I have not yet seen any highflow turbo's making more than 240-250rwkw.

Not to drag this thread too off topic but I know of several high flowed M35 Stagea turbos that have made in the region of 300awkw

Not to drag this thread too off topic but I know of several high flowed M35 Stagea turbos that have made in the region of 300awkw

Can you tell me the specs etc. I am keen on this.

Check the hypergear thread, he has ones doing up to 280 with the standard housings.

Oh yes hypergear. Their power figures are highly inflated. I ran one of their turbos from before. Great turbo just not making the power quoted :D

Can you tell me the specs etc. I am keen on this.

Oh yes hypergear. Their power figures are highly inflated. I ran one of their turbos from before. Great turbo just not making the power quoted :D

Fortunately that sheet was sent from a customer, not a test car result. Have a read through the thread, every one made similar power figure as test car as long as they followed instruction guide and with the right setup.

I can high flow a stock OP6 turbo to make 300rwkws+. Except it drives like crap.

Need to cut a chuck out of the rear housing, brace it back after machining, then stick in a baby trim 3540 size core, that makes 300rwkws+. Looking from out side its still a stock turbo.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...