Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys, I need your advices, I have a R33 gts-t, I found it's quite scary to drive in the wet sometimes, the car starts to "Drift" when I take off in first gear to make a turn, sometimes in a hurry right turn, I feel i'm going to lose control and spin around.

have u guys experienced the same problem??? My car only has some basic mods, FMIC, turboback exhaust, CAI, standard turbo, and most of the time I run stock boost, so there is not a lot of power. I have Buddyclub N+ coilover suspension and the R34 Gtr wheels fitted, tyres are Dunlop lemans, few months old. In a sunny day, it's fine, only happens in wet.

Yeah !! I have the same issues, on wet roads, I think it's due to hard suspension. I got EDFC setup in my car and I noticed that harder the suspension I set, less grip on wet roads I get. So I always drive on softest setting on wet and just have to be very careful. I try to drive without the turbo kicking in (slow launch)

Yeah !! I have the same issues, on wet roads, I think it's due to hard suspension. I got EDFC setup in my car and I noticed that harder the suspension I set, less grip on wet roads I get. So I always drive on softest setting on wet and just have to be very careful. I try to drive without the turbo kicking in (slow launch)

Which Tein have you got??? Super street??? I set my Buddyclub N+ to softest, and it's still happened

what tyres are you running? hows the wear on them? how low is your rears, how much camber does it have? When i put my tiens on they lowered the car and gave me a fair amount of camber front and rear. the extra camber on the rear created uneven tyrewear on the inside of my tires and I could easily break traction when turning in first say to do a U or 3 point turn. It got to the point where it was quite predictable. Would also break traction in the rain on red lights if i gave it say 1.5k revs on take off.

I now have a set of good Yokos and camber kits so it doesnt do it anymore.

what tyres are you running? hows the wear on them? how low is your rears, how much camber does it have? When i put my tiens on they lowered the car and gave me a fair amount of camber front and rear. the extra camber on the rear created uneven tyrewear on the inside of my tires and I could easily break traction when turning in first say to do a U or 3 point turn. It got to the point where it was quite predictable. Would also break traction in the rain on red lights if i gave it say 1.5k revs on take off.

I now have a set of good Yokos and camber kits so it doesnt do it anymore.

Thanks for your reply, very helpful info.

Tyres are Dunlop lemans, about 3000kms old. rear is about 340mm center of wheel to guard. I don't have the camber kits, so I guess I need the camber kits to fix the problem.

I found it's quite scary to drive in the wet sometimes, the car starts to "Drift" when I take off in first gear to make a turn, sometimes in a hurry right turn

Don't hurry then. Slow and deliberate.

R34 Gtr wheels fitted, tyres are Dunlop lemans, few months old. In a sunny day, it's fine, only happens in wet.

Everyone else has covered most of it on the tyre side, so my only other suggestion is to set the suspension up to understeer as much as possible. If it rains set the rear dampers to full soft and the fronts to full hard. If the ride's a bit too harsh in the front dial it back little by little, but always ensure the fronts are a lot stiffer than the rear.

Which Tein have you got??? Super street??? I set my Buddyclub N+ to softest, and it's still happened

I'm not sure what Tein they are , coz I got them with the import, didn't bother to chech back then and didn't have much knowledge either.

It is called drving normally. It requires throttle modulation rather then just floorg it :yes:

I agree with Roy, even a stock skyline would lose traction on wet conditions. The mods make it worse (but perfect for dry conditions). So I guess there’s nothing we can do about driving when wet other than just been very careful and always keep in mind that your car is designed and moded to suit dry conditions.

Just go easy on the gas when wet.. nothing wrong with the car… J

It is called drving normally. It requires throttle modulation rather then just floorg it :P

I drive very slow on road, most of the time with the boost controller is switched off, but it still loses traction in first gear in the rain

short shift into 2nd as soon as you get rolling

fix the camber in the rear that's the main thing (I also suspect your suspension is too hard)

dunno what else to tell you, mine just grips in the wet, the rears only spin if I want them to... and that's with 260rwkw and 2way mech diff... some pineapples set to squat might help as well

when I first got the car I had hard springs in with worn standard shocks and crappy federal tyres and the thing was pretty lethal in the wet... totally different car nowadays

It is called drving normally. It requires throttle modulation rather then just floorg it :D

ZING

i can break traction in 3rd in the excel when its wet......

its all about the right foot

+1 on throttle control.

My car is stock power wise on 255 Federal 595SSs, and in the wet it is very easy to get the rears spinning, even on fresh tyres. I manage to keep traction though by keeping the revs below 2,500 rpm (even taking off from lights in 2nd) and taking it easy around corners.

It is all about driving to the conditions.

If you really can't do this, get a piece of plastic and block about 3/4 of your air filter. The resulting restriction should bring the power down so you will get no wheel spin at all :spank:

I don't have issues with traction in the wet with a fair amount of throttle, too much throttle and you lose it but I do have AWD...

How *much* power are you putting down? With how much accelerator?

You could have badly setup suspension OR bad tyres, or you could just be overestimating your car, most cars with a good LSD get sideways in the wet with heavy acceleration, but it's hard to tell on a forum what exactly is going on.

There are some serious topics on getting power down somewhere here (as in suspension, not about right-foot control :spank:)

EDIT: Oh, on corners, it could be suspension setup or it could be overestimation of the car's handling. What rating are the springs of your suspension?

And Dunlop LeMans are *ok* in the wet, not the best, I have them as well, the fact that you have 18inch rims on a GTST also means much lower profile so that's probably not going to help.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...