Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so will the gtrs make that mate.

they say the turbo has done about 8000ks on a gtr twin set up no shaft play

if i fitted the gtrs to my r33 what size injectors would u say to get

  • Replies 93
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The Gtrs's from the rb26dett are different from the single gtrs you would run on your rb25det, i wouldnt bother converting to twins... you can make 400hp with a single

HKS GTRS (nengun have complete kits)

NISMO 555 INJECTORS

Z32 AFM

BOSCH 044

APEXI POWER FC

Edited by FOOLBOOST
so what would be the pick of them

i thought about this long and hard and went for a 2835 pro s

here is my thread about it with all the details :P

clicky

GT3076r .6 comp cover running .82 IW or .7 IW AVO rear with a set of cams on the stock manifold will see you touch 300rwkw and be reliable providing the tuning is all good.
What he said :nyaanyaa:

But how long is an internally standard engine going to last at 300rwkw?

You might want to look into that as well, personally (as im doing my self) i would stick with a high flow with about 250rwkw untill you build an engine, then look at going high mount, inlet and all the other bits and pieces and head towards the 350rwkw mark.

But how long is an internally standard engine going to last at 300rwkw?

You might want to look into that as well, personally (as im doing my self) i would stick with a high flow with about 250rwkw untill you build an engine, then look at going high mount, inlet and all the other bits and pieces and head towards the 350rwkw mark.

Will last fine, if tunned correctly...

Will last fine, if tunned correctly...

Assuming he does not take it to drag/drift/track days every weekend and keeps away from the rev limiter and a host of other variables that will kill an engine that is on the limit.

250kw out of a 2535? I don't think so. My mates just makes 230rwkw on a RB25.

The 2535 is too small as an "upgrade turbo" on a RB25 and it aint worth the hassell to do all the installation and other mods required (fuel system etc) when your just going to want to want more power a couple of weeks later.

He said he wants the max power out of a stock motor RB25, which i take as anywhere between 260-300ish kw. The 2535 is not going to make those goals no matter what.

i currently have a HKS2530 on my RB25 and made 232rwkw with stock injectors and SAFC-II.. I bought a PFC and got it tuned, the tuner apparently lowered the timing and now im only getting 225rwkw @ 20psi but have better mid range power.

I think its possible to make around 240rwkw with the 2535 but with unsafe timing and maybe a lot of knocking..

Cant wait to install the 3076r.. :)

Edited by EVL-R33
i thought about this long and hard and went for a 2835 pro s

here is my thread about it with all the details :P

clicky

mate u said a 2835 pro s would be a good option whats the difference to a 2835 not pro s version

mate u said a 2835 pro s would be a good option whats the difference to a 2835 not pro s version

2835 is external gate t2 or t3 flange designed mainly for high mount applications

2835pros is internally gated t3 flange for bolt on to RB20/RB25

can u get more at that price

GT3076R .63 rear here is the link from where I got it from(click on page 2), its $1656, but you might have to pay for delivery depending on where u are..

Edited by EVL-R33

Just reading through this and you need to ask yourself do u want responsive power or laggy as hell.

I agree with hks gtr-s or 25/35 (30) for responsive power although may not pull the higher figures.

Guess depends on if you wanna drive round or sit at home jacking off over dyno sheets...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
    • I'm working on the assumption that our friend Jasmine here is a Russian (or, possibly Ukrainian) spammer/spambot, based purely on the number of such that I have been having to neuter in the last few weeks. IP address for the OP above was in WA. But that could have been via VPN. Posting at quarter to 4 in the morning is a good sign of being from somewhere in Europe. The last Jasmine that I kicked in the cooch was IP addressed in Ukraine. Even that could have been via VPN, and the bitchbot could have been from Russia, Serbia, China or anywhere. Regardless, was a spambot, so I killed it with fire. The fact that our new friend Jasmine here did not respond in any way to my tart query strongly suggests to me that this OP was just the establishment phase of a user able to be activated for spamming in a week, or 3 or 10.
×
×
  • Create New...