Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

cheers, its all standard internally :thumbsup:

from unitconverter.com.au:

284rwkw = 380hp

295rwkw = 395.6hp

I want to see when I set my electronic boost controller if I can have a few of these settings ie. high boost, mid boost, low boost :)

Adam

The only other real problem is the Valve solenoid thing in the throttle body/manifold, Have stuck it in the Top end range so its always open which is killing some of the low down power.. Having replaced the Stock ECU there is no signal to control it as its not on the GTT model.. If anyone else has had this problem before and found a way to solve it please let me know or if anyone can suggest some ways to control it im all ears.

The ECU pin that controls the baffle switches it open in the mid 4000rpm region in the 25GT. In the GTt this is the very same ECU output that opens the boost control solenoid to go from low to high boost in the late 4000rpm region. Basically it should still operate much the same if the output is still connected......is there a setting in the

PFC that controls this output? May be worth sticking a multimeter on the pin and seeing when it triggers +12v (or if it does with a PFC)

Thanks Dan, Ill pass on the info to unigroup to check it out as I dont have a multimeter..

Any ideas how I can disable the TPS for the traction control on the ECU?

Still gotta try and look over the VCT too its running 4v on the ground side of the circuit.. Not quite sure what to look for, Maybe just something that looks out of the ordinary.

Very impressive results WYTSKY

Thanks Dan, Ill pass on the info to unigroup to check it out as I dont have a multimeter..

Any ideas how I can disable the TPS for the traction control on the ECU?

Still gotta try and look over the VCT too its running 4v on the ground side of the circuit.. Not quite sure what to look for, Maybe just something that looks out of the ordinary.

Very impressive results WYTSKY

I'll have a look, I tricked the signal on a car years ago using the 5v TPS feed and some diodes running into the sensor wire of the TCS. As far as it was concerned it could see the ~2.5v it need to not throw up an error signal.

Just finished off making myself a heat shield, not the most overly pretty thing in the world but boy was it cheap :P

So here is a crappy phone camera pic of my engine bay for ya N-dawg.. completely stealth except for shiny shield but cant get defected for it anymore..

Gonna have to cover the heatshield with an assortment of jap stickers.. seeing as I have something from every major brand (nearly) on the car now.

post-51757-1273730281_thumb.jpg

my +t project is going on the dyno tomorrow - running a t3/t04e, hopefully the high compression will help spool the dinosaur turbo.

Did anyone here running the NEO RB25DE think about changing the intake manifold? or is the twin runner design superior to the DET manifold?

Adam you crazy mother fker, very impressive results mate :/

i'll hopefully be joining the 280-300 club soon but with a more reliable motor tho :P

not bad starting base aggroman, i guess u wont need my oil line anymore?

should hit 180+ with 12psi

How much did all the parts + labor cost for you wytsky? looking at chucking a turbo on my car as well but not sure if its a good idea long term

well, i did most of it myself. so depends how good you are with the tools. do you have an oil drain/oil return on your block? I cant remember the older stuff like manifold, gaskets, standard injectors etc etc as they were done years ago, so you need to do some reading to get all that sorted first.

Adam you crazy mother fker, very impressive results mate :/

i'll hopefully be joining the 280-300 club soon but with a more reliable motor tho :P

hehe, cheers bud. i said to myself, i'll be happy if we get 260, absolutely satisfied at 280 and any more is just a bonus, i'll see what happens with the gizzmo ebc as we are just using the bleed valve atm which is fine, but the gizzmo gives me 6 different boost settings so wouldn't mind an extra psi or so to really crack into the 300's very very occasionally and have a few different combos.

Oooh I may finally be able to put a solid dyno figure up, someone SA was selling my old car, hopefully they put it on the dyno???

I love how it lost 105,000kms off the speedo and doesn't have repaired, rear passenger side damage

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...le-t314425.html

cheers, its all standard internally :ermm:

from unitconverter.com.au:

284rwkw = 380hp

295rwkw = 395.6hp

I want to see when I set my electronic boost controller if I can have a few of these settings ie. high boost, mid boost, low boost :P

Adam

thats great mate your catching me up,it wasn't so long ago i was being called a liar for these sort of figures,keep it coming i need the competition to get me motivated to the next level

lol guess this website needs some updating? i'll be passing the 400hp mark in the next 6 weeks :)

http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=142304

are you doing the headgasket before you up the boost anymore,my tuner was concerned about taking it higher because of the standard gasket

200rwkw at 9psi

more to come if we can eliminate a lean spot when boost comes on at 3000rpm

breaks traction in any gear when you hit full boost, atmo vented external signals traction loss :s

planning to leave it at the current power level while I sort out the suspension, wheels, tires, and learn how to drive ...

Awesome work there Adam! Very nice set up, big turbo and still quite responsive judging by that graph, well done :ninja:

Cheers bud. Hows yours going at the moment?

are you doing the headgasket before you up the boost anymore,my tuner was concerned about taking it higher because of the standard gasket

nah, everyone thinks she'll be fine or atleast its not that worth it unless im taking the head off for other things.

200rwkw at 9psi

more to come if we can eliminate a lean spot when boost comes on at 3000rpm

breaks traction in any gear when you hit full boost, atmo vented external signals traction loss :s

planning to leave it at the current power level while I sort out the suspension, wheels, tires, and learn how to drive ...

what wheels/tyres do you have currently? you shouldnt be able to break traction in any gear....

michelin pilot sports

standard r33 gts25t rims

only went to third gear, backed off after that ... so not any gear

found an electrical fault causing the lean spot, workshop thinks there is a voltage drop which is causing the fuel pump to drop pressure - resulting in the lean spot. hopefully we can track this down

  • 3 weeks later...

Finally got my R33 on the dyno, made 164kW at all four on 9psi.

Its an S1 R33 GTS4 RB25DE, stock R34 turbo, Stock R34 SMIC, Stock R33 GTST ECU + Injectors, Stock RB25DET exhaust manifold, stock R33 front + dump pipe, 2.5" cat back exhaust, 50/50 water+methanol injection.

Car was incredibly lean down low (14.7:1) for about 1500rpm IN BOOST, then stupidly rich up top (low 10:1) possibly in rich and retard mode, the tuner (Nick Summers) reccomends full aftermarket management (i was going to fit an SAFC shortly) so thats all a bit disapointing. Explains why i was getting detonation in low revs above 6psi though (the reason why i fitted water meth) and i do agree with the tuner.

post-18637-1275868456_thumb.jpg

Edited by SKiT_R31

nice, another 33 gts4 :thumbsup:

What did he tune as I thought theres not much to tune because everything is locked on stock ecu?

Also, what about afm? I changed that first thing aswell when I started on turboing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
    • Been a busy but productive day. Axle and hubs acquired. All fitted up after a bit of modifying. Need to sort out wider mudguards and running light reflector covers but other than that the trailer is gooood to go !!
    • Selling a SMIC for a Nissan Stagea C34 Series 2 and the pipe from the intercooler to inlet. (I believe it is the same R34 GTT, please correct me if I'm wrong) Price: $50? I dont have a photo of the big black pipe that goes from SMIC outlet to throttle body.
    • So the original radiator is leaking now. Looking at getting a fully aluminium one next. Am I correct in saying that the Series 2 Auto Stageas have a separate trans cooler from factory (located in between the rad and intercooler in my previous post/message).   Currently looking at Fenix $460, Blitz $700, GReddy $800, and KoyoRad $740. What are everyones thought on Fenix ( ive read a few comments saying theyre cheap Chinese rebrands etc and how their build quality is... well.. chinese...)  compared to the others? Worth the extra couple hundies?
×
×
  • Create New...