Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25/30 Rb30det Vvt Internal Oil Control

psi

By psi,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

dantheman88 Community Regular

dantheman88

Posted
Posted

I just bought a 32 with a rb30det in it that isn't running the VCT. Now I was just wondering if it would be possible to do this mod while the engine is in? And I'm not sure what size oil restrictors were used so could it be potentially harmful to the engine if I was to start using the VCT?

  • Replies 169
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

fletch rb30
fletch rb30

33 and 34 vct activation is different. On 33 heads, the oil constantly feeds the front journal to lubricate it. The oil leaves the journal via the vct solenoid into the head. When the vct engages the

daisu
daisu

Just to get an idea of how it works, is this what is happening with the oil feed?

psi
psi

I've heard of a few plugs that refuse to play the game. I thought I would have that issue and got some brass just incase.. If you do break or mangle it, you will have to make a copy. Nice pics

Posted Images

dantheman88 Community Regular

dantheman88

Posted
Posted

actually I just found that mine has the external oil feed done. but because I have a 32 loom I dont have the plug or wiring for the vct. Guess I need to get a plug from option1 and a window switch for the vct control

Hardenedup Newbie

Hardenedup

Posted
Posted

Hi JonnoHR31,

Thanks for the reply and advice.

My RB30 is not using any extra restrictors, So what ever the RB30 has in there standard.

I would assume that this is more than enough to cope with the extra supply required.

Thanks,

Adam

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted

Hi JonnoHR31,

Thanks for the reply and advice.

My RB30 is not using any extra restrictors, So what ever the RB30 has in there standard.

I would assume that this is more than enough to cope with the extra supply required.

Thanks,

Adam

I had this - Make sure you have a decent catch can because you're going to dump heaps of oil over 4,000rpm

  • 5 months later...
gold-3lt Enthusiast

gold-3lt

Posted
Posted

due to oil being scavaged from the intake cam buckets has anyone felt the need to run different sized oil restrictors to compensate for the loss or is the loss hardly significant?. Anyhow what size oil restrictors are people using on their 30/25's whether it be internaly or externally fed?

The Bogan Grand Master

The Bogan

Posted
Posted

due to oil being scavaged from the intake cam buckets has anyone felt the need to run different sized oil restrictors to compensate for the loss or is the loss hardly significant?. Anyhow what size oil restrictors are people using on their 30/25's whether it be internaly or externally fed?

TOMEI pump

VCT = 0.6mm

Head has the restrictors blocked and a 0.8mm feed tapped into the oil gallerey on the cold side of the head.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

I just bought a 32 with a rb30det in it that isn't running the VCT. Now I was just wondering if it would be possible to do this mod while the engine is in? And I'm not sure what size oil restrictors were used so could it be potentially harmful to the engine if I was to start using the VCT?

due to oil being scavaged from the intake cam buckets has anyone felt the need to run different sized oil restrictors to compensate for the loss or is the loss hardly significant?. Anyhow what size oil restrictors are people using on their 30/25's whether it be internaly or externally fed?

I have 2 x 1mm restrictors and hydraulic lifters and my vct works fine.
The Bogan Grand Master

The Bogan

Posted
Posted

Be aware that works on the street or the drags may not on the track.

With stock VCT restrictor and 2 x 1mm restrictors in the head mine was fine on the street or at the drags but spewed oil on the track.

To control the oil now my restricters are 0.6 VCT, 1 X 0.8 for the head, drilled out oil returns, 2 x head drains or sump vents (if your that way inclined), catch can drains back to sump, even with this it was spitting oil a bit so I got RB26 cam covers with MINES baffles and foam inserts, I head out to Wakefield this Saturday with my fingers crossed.

The TOMIE pump was a problem as the pressure was 120 psi at 6000 rpm, so I got a regulator installed and now it sits at about 90 psi.

If your building from scratch use the R34 RB25? head as its got VCT and solid lifters (best of both worlds)

VCT works great, I disconected it and noticed straight away the car was much slower to come on to power, when I connected it again it came on good again ( well as good as a TO4Z comes on anyway)

Good luck, Mark

  • 7 months later...
The Bogan Grand Master

The Bogan

Posted
Posted

My main problem turned out being the return to the sump from the front head drain and the catch can was to low on the hot side of tthe sump and oil was being forced up it filling the head thus overflowing the catch can.

Removed front head drain, put a one way check valve into the return from the catch can and increased the restictor size to 1mm.

3 track days and about 6 drag days later and all is fine.

  • 2 months later...
gold-3lt Enthusiast

gold-3lt

Posted
Posted

Would like to know if it's worth me keeping the VCT or not. I'm chasing 330 kw and want to know if its worth keeping and at which point in the rev range will there be any benefit from keeping it?? looking at running a gt35 82r highmount and external gate.

Basically my options are keep vct and stock cams, delete vct and keep stock cams, delete vct and upgrade cams unless of course i upgrade to cams which still support vct.

What are peoples experience with 300+ kw while maintaining VCT?

gold-3lt Enthusiast

gold-3lt

Posted
Posted

You want more response, keep vct...

Option 2 is stupid. Option 3 isn't necessary anymore because Option 4 is available.

NYTSKY has over 500kw with small upgraded cams

I agree, option 2 is just plain stupid and a backwards step. I'm after bulk response so i need to look into all my options right now so i make the right choice and don't have to do shit twice..

At this stage i'll be keeping the vct and stock cams which will leave me room in the future to drop in some larger cams which can support vct.

I didnt realise people were still keeping their VCT with power levels more than just slightly above stock. Most seem to jump at the chance to scrap it in the pursuit for more power and high lift cams.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

I have VCT stock cams hydraulic lifters and 2 x 1.0mm restrictors - also two sump vents - one to top of catch can and one from bottom as a return (will put a non return valve in the bottom one to make sure it doesn't also fill the catch can). With this setup on the track there is now nothing spewing out. I am of the opinion that the so-called head drain is not only not draining but possibly even a cause of the problem. I don't have one.

  • 2 months later...
ScreamerNewbie Enthusiast

ScreamerNewbie

Posted
Posted

hi guys im currently building a 400+kw rb25/30 retaining vct

my head is currently being machined and I need to know what the maximum diameter is that I can drill out the head oil drains?

I have a -12 headoil drain also and restrictors etc but I will be doing the above also, any info or feed bad muchly appreciated

Corey

SilverECR33 Veteran

SilverECR33

Posted
Posted

I've been building one for freakin ages. its finally running again and hopefully tuned next week.

However Im concerned about one of the comments regarding the grub screw. My first head was all welded np. but decided to use a new head this time around but it has been grub screwed this time and tapped. will this be an issue? and how long will it last?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...