Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That run was an 11.1, not bad for 320awkw huh!

If I crossed the finish line in 4th and not in 3rd on the limiter, I would have cracked a high ten...oh well, I still talk about it 3 years later

130mph is fairly fast for the top of 3rd gear with 4.11 ratios (unless you have some funky long 3rd gear ratio in the box or revving motor fairly hard)

I have the same diff ratio, revving to 8100rpm and was in 4th for a fair while and ran 132.5mph

Also with a 1.5 60ft and 130mph you should be looking at least a 10.5 or quicker (something doesn't add up at all)

Edited by SimonR32

130mph is fairly fast for the top of 3rd gear with 4.11 ratios (unless you have some funky long 3rd gear ratio in the box or revving motor fairly hard)

I have the same diff ratio, revving to 8100rpm and was in 4th for a fair while and ran 132.5mph

Also with a 1.5 60ft and 130mph you should be looking at least a 10.5 or quicker (something doesn't add up at all)

Mmm true that, 130mph is ~200km/h which is ~7000rpm in 4th with 4.11 and a GTR Box. Can't tell the exact instruments are probably out a little, but its around that range either way

I know cause i tested it out for N1GTR out of interest for the 1000M thing later in the year.

0.4 isnt too bad, i think the new cars are down under the 0.3s, but the old cars were closer to 1, i think i remember watching on top gear they claimed the veyron required 250hp to get to 150mph and an extra 750hp to get the extra 100mph, id say you would be surprised how much power is required to overcome wind resistance at 130mph

Mmm true that, 130mph is ~200km/h which is ~7000rpm in 4th with 4.11 and a GTR Box. Can't tell the exact instruments are probably out a little, but its around that range either way

I know cause i tested it out for N1GTR out of interest for the 1000M thing later in the year.

All the speedos I've looked at are out by up to 10% at those speeds, wouldn't be suprised if the tacho was also out, always over reading.

Edited by Rolls

that thing is a light switch... must be fun though

a ute with 400rwkw... umm better buy shares in a tyre company!... might want to invest in Bonds as well... free lifetime supply of underwear

It's heaps of fun, had powercruise on saturday, the car went perfect, had the best day out at the track.

Going to run it on Wed night at willowbank and go for a mid 10, then get the boot from the officials!

It has nothing to do with the fact it is turbo or v8, the reason they have different speeds is turbo cars (skylines etc) have much better drag coefficients than V8s from the 70s, they are also usually quite a bit lighter. It has absolutely nothing to do with the engine, power is power, it won't go faster just because it is a turbo :P

yeah i know, but i have been a member of the ford community for a long time and this is common knowledge. and its not any v8, only ford 8 vs ford 6. i dont know about other makes. the turb is lighter than the 8 im pretty sure aswell.

Here is the dyno graph from Aaron's R32 GTST.

Noel's has still gotta go back to the guy who did his exhaust to fix the dump and we also think his gate is a bit ordinary so it is making it a tiny bit lazier than this one. The specs on this one are:

R32 GTST

RB25/30

Standard hydraulic cylinder head with Pon Cams

No VCT connected

GT3788R 0.89A/R

HKS 800cc injectors

Microguess LT10

Blitz ID3 EBC

Just Jap 100mm intercooler

Full 4 inch exhaust with screamer

You can see it makes 10psi by about 95kms. If we had VCT on it would be making 1bar before then. Noel has much better specced camshafts for this turbo also so when we held the gate shut, it was actually making 6psi at around 2800 and 1bar at around 3500-3600

I should have Noel's new one once we get his small issues sorted out

post-10554-0-03976300-1306130835_thumb.jpg

130mph is fairly fast for the top of 3rd gear with 4.11 ratios (unless you have some funky long 3rd gear ratio in the box or revving motor fairly hard)

I have the same diff ratio, revving to 8100rpm and was in 4th for a fair while and ran 132.5mph

Also with a 1.5 60ft and 130mph you should be looking at least a 10.5 or quicker (something doesn't add up at all)

Standard box, nismo diff which may have been a different ratio (not sure), the drag radials are much higher profile though which would also contribute to the ET

Why didn't you have the VCT on? It is also ready a lovely graph but it would look even better again with it on!

VCT isn't hooked up on this engine. Has the solenoid but no exterior oil feed. Budget build I did for someone about 3 years ago

And yes, agreed, VCT would be awesome.

So are you guys saying that weight has no effect on your trap speed? cos' an FG would have to be at least 300kg's heavier than a GTR

EDIT make that 200-250kg's

Yeah that's true but the car in question supposedly has over 1200hp at the wheels

with 1200hp atw and just semi slicks, there is no way the mph can reflect the hp in this case. obviously there is a traction problem. you never know how much power u are missing out on until u go 4 a drive in an awd car. trust me i know !!!! thats why gtr's are so fast. even if that ford is makin only 800whp, 135mph is still low. twoogle ran 139mph and 9.95 with 500kw. all bout traction.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...