Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Haha firehose type 2000s.

I dont know why people bother with 1000's. Fark all difference in $$$'s and soooo much more room for moar powa with the 2000cc's. :P

Edited by Joshbigt62r

SS-4 Alpha ptotoype 1, Working with a 2.5L Rb25det and Tomei 264 / 8.9mm cams.

E85 fuel, externally gated.

This turbocharger made 465rwkws on 24psi maxing out 850cc injectors,

Thick yellow is from today, the rest is the controlled run. Ordered a set of 1200CCs, looking to crack 500rwkws.

It's now on 490rwkws. Same setup as above with 1200cc injectors. Vct is gone.

power.jpg

[][]

  • Like 1

On a hub dyno IIRC.

There isn't going to be 120kw difference between hub and wheels especially with the updated correction.

Sounds like they are not 1200s... what brand are they? Never heard of the flow being engraved into side before?

Haha firehose type 2000s.

I dont know why people bother with 1000's. Fark all difference in $$$'s and soooo much more room for moar powa with the 2000cc's. :P

I initially went 1000s because years ago when I got them, I wanted pkug n pkay, and they were much cheaper then 2000s.

also, e85 was no where near readily available.

will be getting some next stage though.

Hey guys,

dropped my GTR in today to get the e85 tune.

Talked to the tuner and he said once you get up to 390kws + you have to replace all your fuel lines to much bigger lines?

Has anyone done this? what have you used and what is the cost involved?

Hey guys,

dropped my GTR in today to get the e85 tune.

Talked to the tuner and he said once you get up to 390kws + you have to replace all your fuel lines to much bigger lines?

Has anyone done this? what have you used and what is the cost involved?

Man I have 1 044 in tank wallbro 600hp pump as a lift 2l surge tank with 2000id's I'm sitting just under 400kw.. Lines still standard to the filter.

Same, I made over 400awkw with standard lines as well...me when ppl give the wrong advice I understand that as we are not all experts, however, a mechanic / tuner 'should' know better

Cheers guys. As you said i only go by what so called experts tell me as im pretty much clueless myself.

But i do know my tuner is ULTRA conservative!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...