Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Also I would ask the scrutineers at the drags what you will need when you get into the 10's, if I remember right you will need to fit a tail shaft loop, I got one but never fitted it.

You can have the one I got if you want it, it will need some mods to fit but its new and to spec and has all the nuts and bolts needed, you would just need some plate for the interior side, my new project is a MX5 that I will set up for the track and it will never need it (it doesn't have the torque to pull the skin of custard).

Theres also the possibility the ATTESSA hasn't been properly bled meaning it'll be more or less RWD… Just a thought that is. I bled mine up after changing to my old twin plate and it made a world of difference.

If the gearbox has come out at any stage the ATTESSA needs to be bled

Unless its got issues thats not normally the case. Every GTR box i pulled out went back together fine, and trust me i did heaps ;)

What you can do as a cheap mod is pull the plate out of the transfer case that the line goes into. Drill and tap a hole and put a bolt in it with a locking nut on it. Spin it in a bit to preload the trasfer case. I wouldnt drive around with it locked up very tight as you will probably wear it out but it would be fine for the drags :)

As for getting your car down the dragstrip sime1, what rpm is it crossing the line at and in what gear? What 60 footer does it run and is it spinning or bogging?

I had issues trapping at much more than 128mph and did a diff gear change and now run 136mph pretty regularly. Car weighs in at 1460 and was only making 420rwkw on the Advan dyno till the turbo change.

Depending on what the cars doing there are also some very cheap mods that can be done to help traction. Some washers is all it took for me to go from wheel spinning to bogging down pretty badly. You could also ask Yavuz to set up the 2 step on the Link, from memory it is running a Link isnt it?

ATR43SS4CBB Alpha turbocharger

93 model R33 GTST Forgied CP pistons, valve springs

Stock Cams

1200cc injectors

600x300x75mm Front mounted cool

Brae high mount exhaust manifold

HPVA 50mm external gate plumbed back.

Xforce 3inch Cat back exhaust

100 Cell Cat

Profect B electric boost controller

4inch intake pipe

Adaptronic Plugin

Power 435rwkws @ 25psi , E85 Fuel

power.jpg

boost.jpg

  • Like 1

Guided at 4000 / 4500 / 5000RPMs.

powerguided.jpg

Per description on the boost curve sheet: 19psi @ 4079RPMs, 25psi @ 4218.

There was a split silicon hose that was unnoticed, affecting boost response. This turbocharger is going back to dyno again in two weeks time using my modified stock exhaust manifold expecting to hit full boost by 4000RPMs. It drives reasonably well on road, has a 3582's top end without the lag.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Will have a look at that. I cant see any leaks 
    • Put another overflow bottle (ie, a 1.25 coke bottle or similar) under the overflow hose and see if it is being pushed out there or if it is disappearing into the engine.
    • Staring on a stand is no issue. You just have to wire everything up, give it fuel and cross your fingers that the stand is robust enough. Arranging the inlet plumbing is often the hardest part, without any surrounding structure to hand some of it from. No need for coolant if you only want to run it for <1 minute. As to the gearbox - I think the little Aisin box is a bit stronger than the other small Nissan boxes that went behind SRs, but I wouldn't be too keen to test its limits with the torque of a boosted 25. I don't know if you can retain the box and the tailshaft. The box won't connect to the RB without an adapter of some sort, which is either a plate that will push the engine forward (which is not good for fitting it into the bay's available space) or push the box back, which messes with the box position and tailshaft length - OR - cut and shut work on the bellhousing, which is a long way from "least modification". I'd be buying a new 370Z 6 speed or similar, doing what has to be done to that to make it fit RB (ie, cut and shut bellhousing) and the requisite tailshaft custom/mods.
    • Hi Everyone I am from West Pennant Hills in NSW. Been too busy until recently to attend to my RB25DET Series 2 engine until recently. I am planning to stick it into the S15 shell at this stage, unless a nice SR20DET turns up... For now, i am going to try and get the RB25 running and working well then decide what gearbox to use. My preference is to retain the SR20DET  6 speed gearbox and tail shaft to retain as much and least modifications as i can avoid. I am an old guy and won't be doing any heavy drifting so i don't need a bullet proof gearbox Does anyone have experience with starting the RB on a stand? I got everything setup as much as I can with the info i can find... endless searching and videos on Youtube I would be great to get some pointers Cheers Songo
    • Hey all, Recently have had my s1 r33 gtr serviced and noticed my coolant reservoir was topped up to the max line. Took the car out for 1 yesterday and noticed today the reservoir is completely empty.  Any ideas? Radiator is full
×
×
  • Create New...