Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's being built to circiut, 3deg camber on front and 2.5 rear

Nice im building mine for same application and ocasional strip run . I want to look more into setting upnfor camber I am putting the gk teck camber arms in rear any particular adivice on the way to set it up ? I know its prob wrong thread pm me if you want :)

Went to the drags tonight

Car weighed in at 1661kgs plus 108kgs for me

And with a less then Ideal run it ran 10.88 @ 132.23mph on 24psi and was politely asked to GTFO :)

Congrats Mick :) What was the 60'? And what tyres + size?

My R33 weighed 1760 with me in it (102kg) Didn't think they were that heavy!

Mine weighed in at 1580 kg. Only weight oust of it was wheel, jack and boot interior. Where is the extra weight coming from? 80 odd Kgs doesn't exactly hide under a seat.

Must be that fuel pump, Mick ;).

Congrats Mick :) What was the 60'? And what tyres + size?

My R33 weighed 1760 with me in it (102kg) Didn't think they were that heavy!

Thanks mate, Toyo TQs in 255/?/16s, haha I forgot the profile

1760 is about the same, mine is 1770 with my fat arse in it

Mine weighed in at 1580 kg. Only weight oust of it was wheel, jack and boot interior. Where is the extra weight coming from? 80 odd Kgs doesn't exactly hide under a seat.

Must be that fuel pump, Mick ;).

9ltr surge tank and a 7kg pump, all new line with original ones still there, two amps and the woofers for the front splits are 5kgs each, RB30 half grout filled plus a heap of other, it all adds up :(

The R32 is either 1408 or 1480, can't remember

I too can't do without a good sound system, must be the wog coming out of me

Thanks mate, Toyo TQs in 255/?/16s, haha I forgot the profile

1760 is about the same, mine is 1770 with my fat arse in it

9ltr surge tank and a 7kg pump, all new line with original ones still there, two amps and the woofers for the front splits are 5kgs each, RB30 half grout filled plus a heap of other, it all adds up :(

The R32 is either 1408 or 1480, can't remember

  • Like 1

It's being built to circiut, 3deg camber on front and 2.5 rear

Have you tracked it with these settings yet? I'm at about 4deg front and 1.5deg rear. I think I need more at the front but have not really looked into the rear as much.

Mine is full interior but no stereo, hicas, air con or spare wheel/boot lining and weighs 1430ish kg without driver and 1/4 of a tank of fuel so there is a lot of scope for your car to lose some weight

I wouldn't think you'd want more than 1.5 degrees out back with over 400kw would you? It'd just be bake city every time you put your foot down.

It's a balance between grip in a straight line and grip in a corner, if you grip more in a corner you get on the straight going faster which means less chance of wheelspin.

In saying that, warm r-comps don't really spin at all in a straight line

Thanks Zebra

I too can't do without a good sound system, must be the wog coming out of me

I'm a Kiwi and buggered if I'm going drive around with no tunes, so its not just a wog thing :)

Have you tracked it with these settings yet? I'm at about 4deg front and 1.5deg rear. I think I need more at the front but have not really looked into the rear as much.

Mine is full interior but no stereo, hicas, air con or spare wheel/boot lining and weighs 1430ish kg without driver and 1/4 of a tank of fuel so there is a lot of scope for your car to lose some weight

I have but the tyres I had on it where crap, Faulken semi craps lol, these setting working pretty good with them, when I change the rear lower control arms I will knock it back to 2deg

The R34 is heavier then the 32 from the get go, and given it is suppose to be a street car I'm not to worried about weight, when I first bough it the old owner had completely striped it out and it weighed 1480kgs, I raced it the day after I brought it and weighed it then before putting it back together

Michael, I agree with what Simon said :)

I got a couple of kiwi mates, they think they're rappers when on the piss haha, top blokes though

Haha yeah that sounds about right, I'm from Irish heritage, so no rapping from me :D

Cheers Pete, load of fun getting it off the line :D, can't wait to try and get it out of a corner

Thanks mate, Toyo TQs in 255/?/16s, haha I forgot the profile

1760 is about the same, mine is 1770 with my fat arse in it

9ltr surge tank and a 7kg pump, all new line with original ones still there, two amps and the woofers for the front splits are 5kgs each, RB30 half grout filled plus a heap of other, it all adds up :(

The R32 is either 1408 or 1480, can't remember

What wheels were on the R34? I thought 16's wouldn't fit over the brakes on 33's and 34s?

I went 11.5@126 with a 1.81 sixty foot. Only mods were -5's and fuel + ECU upgrade making 327rwkw and 19" tyres.

How were you launching yours?

What wheels were on the R34? I thought 16's wouldn't fit over the brakes on 33's and 34s?

I went 11.5@126 with a 1.81 sixty foot. Only mods were -5's and fuel + ECU upgrade making 327rwkw and 19" tyres.

How were you launching yours?

Factory R32 16s, with 20mm spacers and a quick grind off the ridge of the caliper and they fit with like .5mm clearance :D

I ran last week with 275/35/19s and couldn't get more then 128mph, the Toyos stand 1" lower in OD the the 19s I have, I have 265/35/18 hankook semis I have to get rims for and they are smaller in diameter again

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...