Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive tried searching, but i cant really find the answer. can someone tell me roughly how much a standard r33 gtr incooler can support up to??

Im going in for a tune and im hoping to see around 360kws. should i upgrade before the tune or should it be fine?

Thanks

well i was thinking if anyone would know if itll be fine for 360 it would be people who have seen 360 and shot way past it :P

If it was so good he wouldnt have replaced it for a Greddy one in his 360kw 33 that his selling, the cooler wasnt designed for those power levels and you cant argue that it is 100% efficient. It might do the job but its not going to do it as good as a bigger unit.

Anyways not going to stir the pot, 400kw you will be hearing from me soon :P

Edited by nomnomv8

lol - I didn't replace it, it came with the car. I wouldn't waste my money on one.

We actually thought it was stock until 6 months after when I had it on a hoist/front bar off etc - given results/performance were no different to stock cooler equipped examples.

I could give you a list of cars making 380-400rwkw on stock coolers if you like? no issues at all.

lol - I didn't replace it, it came with the car. I wouldn't waste my money on one.

We actually thought it was stock until 6 months after when I had it on a hoist/front bar off etc - given results/performance were no different to stock cooler equipped examples.

I could give you a list of cars making 380-400rwkw on stock coolers if you like? no issues at all.

Yes please

lol - I didn't replace it, it came with the car. I wouldn't waste my money on one.

We actually thought it was stock until 6 months after when I had it on a hoist/front bar off etc - given results/performance were no different to stock cooler equipped examples.

I could give you a list of cars making 380-400rwkw on stock coolers if you like? no issues at all.

So it's proven that a standard cooler can support big power, but would a big dollar brand name one be more efficient and help to make more/earlier power?

Personal choice at the end of the day.

I wouldn't run that much power with a stock cooler and nor would I run aftermarket bov's.

Ive always based my choice on what the majority have done with their cars.

This will turn into a heated debate so let's leave it at that :)

So it's proven that a standard cooler can support big power, but would a big dollar brand name one be more efficient and help to make more/earlier power?

We actually thought it was stock until 6 months after when I had it on a hoist/front bar off etc - given results/performance were no different to stock cooler equipped examples.

My power, temps are no different with a GReddy core (that I didn't know I had). Guess you missed that post.

But spend big if you want on the 'big mark up' Jap items that are coming outta China at the end of the day anyway. Look forward to reading your testing and if you see any temp differences at the circuit, i didn't.

I mean I know for a fact a few local Aus 'brands' have been ex-China for over 4 years. That's another argument entirely however :)

I mean I know for a fact a few local Aus 'brands' have been ex-China for over 4 years. That's another argument entirely however :)

yup i like the "brands" vs china debates they always make me giggle.

I have a spare plasmaman cooler which is a real work of art.

Has to be better than the HDI cooler which was fitted to my gtr when.I bought it back?

Ash, have u heard much about plasma man? They charge a bomb but very nice quality and they do make them onsite :)

My power, temps are no different with a GReddy core (that I didn't know I had). Guess you missed that post.

But spend big if you want on the 'big mark up' Jap items that are coming outta China at the end of the day anyway. Look forward to reading your testing and if you see any temp differences at the circuit, i didn't.

I mean I know for a fact a few local Aus 'brands' have been ex-China for over 4 years. That's another argument entirely however :)

Its not China its worse..Thailand !! Well at least one major Japanese manufacturer has gear made there.

My power, temps are no different with a GReddy core (that I didn't know I had).

What where the dimensions of your GReddy cooler?

Personal choice at the end of the day.

I wouldn't run that much power with a stock cooler and nor would I run aftermarket bov's.

Ive always based my choice on what the majority have done with their cars.

This will turn into a heated debate so let's leave it at that :)

This.

People are forgetting that coolers are basically a heat sink, a heat sink that's in this case 20 years old and was designed to cater for "206kw" at the fly... not almost double that at the wheels!

Common sense, a cooler thats 600 x 300 with a depth of 60mm does not have more volume than a cooler thats the same dimensions and 100mm thick and at those power levels mentioned you have to have rocks in your brain not to realise that. Look at the Nismo coolers for example I guess that their engineers are dumwits and idiots not knowing that their 100mm thick coolers are useless because some nobody from a workshop in Australia said so.

The point im trying to make is when you have already spent $10,000+ to get your 360kw+ car you think that you would do it right and invest that couple of hundred more after selling your uber cool OEM GTR cooler to a GTS-T owner..

Each to their own I guess, il do things the way they work for me, everyone is entitled to an opinion and while my opinion might be seen as "worthless spending" so be it, rather that than do what i believe is stupid and goes behind any engineering principle

I got my results with 2/3 of a standard 76mm Greddy cooler. A full one would be fine for 400kw, so would a stock GTR one as proven already. Why change what doesn't need changing is most peoples opinion.

As with stock/aftermarket radiators, thick coolers aren't as efficient at cooling as the back of it is always seeing warm air, plus you pay the lag penalty most cant afford at this power.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...