Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys&girls,

just blew my stock turbo in my 33 its a 96 series 2.

I just put a r32 actuator in and it read 1 bar within 5 minutes she made a pop/whistle noise!!!lol

Now i was just wondering what i should do,get it fixed or buy a second hand one?

I just want one that will cop 10pounds all day everyday without issues.

Any ideas would be great,cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/253966-just-blew-my-turbo/
Share on other sites

that would be nice but not too good for the coin side of things, all i want it 10 pounds and im happy,maybe even 12 for as less as possible...........so im thinking another stocker and a decent boost controller will do the job????

what does 10 psi mean? bragging rights?

Run whats safe for the turbo, its not about a number.

Its either replace the stock one, with another stock one for less than 1k.

Or do an upgrade, decently, and spend about 2.5k

Just luck of the draw. Mine takes 15 psi everyday and i drive it hard pretty often.

My advice would be to get another second hand one. Can pick them up for 300 pretty easily. And thats all it will cost you if you are prepared to install it yourself. If not then the cost will probably double to 600..

as said luck of the draw, in my old 180 rb20det i punished it, wouldnt do it knowing what i know now, but it had a ca18det cooler, (thinner than std r32) and was running 1 bar for just over the year that i had it and i thrashed that thing every day, then sold it to a mate and it kept on living until he wrote it off

Im well aware of whats safe, whats not.

Just saying to ensure you run whats safe, and forget about the number (safe or unsafe).

Im not negative, just making a comment to the above, maybe you take that negatively... considering your record on the forum that comes as no surprise.

If you're lucky enough to find one get a R34 neo turbo, comes with the VG30 sized larger rear housing but a nylon compressor wheel meant I didn't notice any lag compared to my S1. I made 4kw more at 10psi compared to 12psi on the S1 R33 turbo. They go for $400-450.

if it were me (eventually i will be in your situation with my series 2) I would park the car for a few months, use public transport if you can or find other ways to get around untill you can afford to put a new upgraded turbo in. I don't mean go all out and put a massive high mounted lag macker in it, put if you get another second hand (suposable good nick) turbo, you run the risk of it stuffing up on you again, you have no idea what life a second hand stock turbo has gone through. they are old, they can fail even if they have minimal play and look and feel fresh. Just buy another decent turbo (brand new), or take your turbo and get it highflowed for about $800 ive seen. Highflows arn't the answer for running massive power, but its more than enough than what you need it for, fairly cheap compared to a new turbo (highflow is basically a newer better turbo of the original and run higher boost).

me personally if i had the money i'd go a new better turbo.

but its your decision

if it were me (eventually i will be in your situation with my series 2) I would park the car for a few months, use public transport if you can or find other ways to get around untill you can afford to put a new upgraded turbo in. I don't mean go all out and put a massive high mounted lag macker in it, put if you get another second hand (suposable good nick) turbo, you run the risk of it stuffing up on you again, you have no idea what life a second hand stock turbo has gone through. they are old, they can fail even if they have minimal play and look and feel fresh. Just buy another decent turbo (brand new), or take your turbo and get it highflowed for about $800 ive seen. Highflows arn't the answer for running massive power, but its more than enough than what you need it for, fairly cheap compared to a new turbo (highflow is basically a newer better turbo of the original and run higher boost).

me personally if i had the money i'd go a new better turbo.

but its your decision

if it's going to take a few months to save up for a upgraded turbo, then it's probably not such a good idea.

the reason for upgrading usually would be more power, which in turn can cause more things to break...

get another good condition stocker on there, run 10psi, and you'll be fine. ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...