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My mates R34 makes 390rwkw with hks gtss's tuned by jim from crd..given its at 28 psi, but still makes me think i should have gone with some ss's instead of going for the 2530's.

Oh well ..looks like i should shoot for 400kw then.

Hi Ash :thumbsup: now you don't need to be doing massive street launches do you, just gearing down to 1st or 2nd gear at a slower speed and your over 4500 rpm in an instant, no lag from 2nd, 3rd, 4th and so on, I've run standard turbo's, 2871-7s and 2871-10s with poncams and now 2860- 5s with standard cams as a happy medium, even with the 10s (I miss the rush and it beats using drugs) its was not like waiting to bake a cake for them to hit boost it was just too hard on the engine and hitting 8300 rpm is not my idea of fun, engine can go Boom! now I don't smoke a pipe or wear a tweed jacket but I would never drive my car on the street in the way a circuit racer would drive on a track...I'm more of a gear it down type of a boy (not in public view of course) with GTRs or RB26s and turbo choice its not like one shoe fits all... that's what makes them so great! as long as people are happy with their set up is whats most important. Keep up the good work :P

I've been in 200rwkw cars, 600rwkw cars, single, twins... even had varying levels of power in my own from 160-370rwkw, varying motors as well (rb20det/30et/25det/26dett)

I honestly feel the GT-SS/-9 setup is the fastest setup even if it does not have as much power as previous incarnations of my setp.

And this is where the difference lies - Everyone's definition of "driveability" can often differ. I'm lazy, and i hate changing gears... i'll even take off in 2nd if i cbf'd, and the car does that perfectly fine :thumbsup:

People need to drive the setups - correctly setup - and see for themselves.

I emphasise correctly setup very hard because a lot of setups unfortunately are not all that they could be.

Looks like we've both had more that a few goes at finding the right set up that suits, you live and learn don't you, I just wish it didn't cost so much, Oh God I hope I don't change my mind down the track and go the 9s, and yer i,m lazy too I've left the car in the garage until the coopermix arrives the triple plates a pain in the ass in traffic. I might just buy a boogy board for my next form of entertainment. Cheers!

  • 3 weeks later...

Digging this oldish thread up again, thought I'd add my opinion after just having -7's fitted to my Stag. After a quick run through the hills I can say that there is definately a lot more power there than I had with my old 34 turbos. At this stage I haven't had it re-tuned (running a PFC) but it pulls so much harder and the response seems to be the same as the old turbos. My mate has just bought a 33 GTR with -5's (with a built engine though), so will interesting to see how much quicker his car is. I'm definately not disappointed with the -7's, but it is a daily driver after all with a stock engine. If it were a weekend car with a built engine I probably would've gone the -5's.

My mates R34 makes 390rwkw with hks gtss's tuned by jim from crd..given its at 28 psi, but still makes me think i should have gone with some ss's instead of going for the 2530's.

Oh well ..looks like i should shoot for 400kw then.

@ 28psi he must be running e85 or race fuel?

Hmm glad to hear some feedback on a Stag with -7s. I was a little worried they would be laggier than stock. In the bigger Stag, responsiveness down low is really needed to get all that weight around.

I also had -7's on the old built motor i had in my stag, TBH felt a tiny amount laggier then the stocks in it now but not enough to really cause any issue's, awesome to drive and pulled hard. Very driveable as a daily, if i ever go a GTR i would be gettting -7's again.

Hi there look honestly stop procrastinating so much I have the -9s look these are what you want not the -7s as they run out of puff in mid to top end. The tiny little bit of slight lag you get with a -9 you more than catch up a second later when your pulling hard in mid and top leaving the guy with the -7 looking at your beautiful round stop light lenses. -9 future proof you if and especially you will want more power and the responce is still crisp, I have hosed guys with the larger -5 waiting for those to come on strong and I've already pulled way to far ahead to catch. Int opinion the -9 are the ultimate street and strip twin turbo setup for most of us non pro guys. I managed 363rwkw with these on 18psi and all by 3600rpm why would you bother with the -7s only guys who own WRXs worry about a little lag oh my god a little lag.

Cheers,

David.

I'd be interested to find out more on this one... :) im getting 9's and would love to know what mods helped get 363kw on 18psi! :)

Cheers

Kristian

  • 2 months later...

These are the prices I've been quoted for the 2860s. Probably going to go with the -9 for the great medium between the -5 and -7. Also I have no idea why Garrett don't make the -9 and -10 with actuators not included in the bundle.

* GT2860R -10's (NO actuators) = $1292.00 each + $101.00 for each actuator (TOTAL $2786)

* GT2860R -5's (with actuators) = $1239.00 each (TOTAL $2478)

* GT2860R - 7's (with actuators) = $1222.00 each (TOTAL $2445)

* GT2860R - 9's (NO actuators) = $1247.00 each + $101.00 for each actuator (TOTAL $2696)

These are the prices I've been quoted for the 2860s. Probably going to go with the -9 for the great medium between the -5 and -7. Also I have no idea why Garrett don't make the -9 and -10 with actuators not included in the bundle.

Hypergear are offering high flows with 2860RS CHRA's around the same price as the -9's.

Has anyone tried them?

Hypergear are offering high flows with 2860RS CHRA's around the same price as the -9's.

Has anyone tried them?

i guess the clear distinct advantage here is you can keep your working stockers or sell them when you buy a pair of new turbos

whereas if you highflow your old ones, you take them off, send them and get them back later

if price was the same

i would go a new pair %100

instead of highflowing originals

Has anyone compared boost response of -5's on a stock motor againts different engine rebuild kits like the HKS and Tomei 2.8L or even different boreing setups?

Apart from all of the other supporting mods- cooling, fuel delivery, tune, cams. If someone wanted to stick with -5's, are the increased displacement kits the way to go for getting them much more responsive?

My old GTR which I built 5 years ago had all the normal (saftey not power goodies, forgies etc... and had a set of HKS GTRS, on its maiden tune it made 366.9Awkw @22psi, not laggy.

Lost my licence so sold it but could off got alot more out of it with more tuning.

Now I just got the bug and have just started a new build on another GTR. this time with money being hard, i have opted for -10s, motor has internal saftey work but still running standard fuel system! til i get more money. @10psi i am 300Awkw...this is only stage one and when funds allow will be upgrading fuel system and than start to play again. Not as responsive as previous setup at the moment but not a lag bomb. Anything over 3800rpm and she will start to boogie...I cant make a definitive answer yet til I turn up the boost but so far it feels like even though the -10 is rated the same as the HKS GTRS, I dont think on the street it will preform on par with HKS? But only time will tell....

I think people are too fused about how much boost is safe on the street, It is all to do with tuning, Big turbos doesnt mean lag if setup and tuned right!

My old supra ran 577Rwkw@over 2bar boost, as a daily drive, turbo was bigger than my head and everybody said it will be laggy as hell, but I am also a lazy driver and I can tell you that it was not laggy, no need to drop gears, just excelerate and spin to my hearts content... IMO its all in the tune. Did go to calder just for fun and she pulled [email protected] spin 3/4 track...But that was with full tien drift setup....was not setup for quater...

Dr Drft...

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