-7/9s Or -5s Garretts

[Count Grantleyish]

Ill be doing the 100k at the same time probably get a kit from Kudos or something, getting some quotes for -9s as well I think they would be best a lot of people think, as for clutch I'm not sure whats in it.. should I wait for it to go bang or what? lol

And yes I will take you up on that ride offer I think! coming to apple peel tomorrow night? if you can make it that would be sweet

Leigh,

I bought my OE Replacment 100k service kit, exhaust manifold gasket + stud kit from Kudos, defintely recommend them.

As for clutch, I'd replace them along with turbos - the less time the R spends in shop, more time you can giggle like girl every time it hits boost.

About Apple Peel meet, I may swing by seeing I'll be living close to the area.

Cheers

Grant

[Rolls]

Ill be doing the 100k at the same time probably get a kit from Kudos or something, getting some quotes for -9s as well I think they would be best a lot of people think, as for clutch I'm not sure whats in it.. should I wait for it to go bang or what? lol

And yes I will take you up on that ride offer I think! coming to apple peel tomorrow night? if you can make it that would be sweet

If the car is already in the shop and you can't do the clutch yourself get it done, but otherwise leave it until its stuffed and get your moneys worth out of it. It isn't that hard to change if you have 3 people, two to hold the gearbox and one to locate it. I managed it with just one other person and only axel stands, was a bit of a flamin mongrel trying to bench press the box in but we managed it in about 30 minutes.

[UNR33L]

Sounds good grant I will see you tonight then hopefully!

As for the clutch I suppose I'm better off doing it at the same time (don't want it to stuff up a drag day or anything) any recommendations or should I be going to the different section on the forum?

[Count Grantleyish]

Leigh,

I've got OS Giken Triple plate in mine, I was recommended Nismo Coppermix Twin plate but I picked my OS Giken with pull to push converter kit for a price I couldn't refuse.

Hopefully I'll be able to pop in tonight as it's 5 mins drive from my new house.

Cheers

Grant

[J - Rad]

I need help with dumps. Got offered some 33R dumps to use instead of my 32R ones, are they any better or should I just stick with what I got?

[Count Grantleyish]

Was told 33r dumps are an improvment over 32r if you can pick them for good price, grab them.

[Moodles2]

Only downside to R33 or R34 dumps, is it takes a 18mm O2 sensor thread VS the R32's 12mm O2 sensor thread.. can be tricky to get a bung that makes the sensor part protrude out far enough in the correct position (i've seen pictures of R33/R34 dumps with these bungs where the sensor just isn't far out enough into the exhaust gas flow to be effective)

[J - Rad]

Finally got the -9s in my hot little hands along with the Garrett actuators. Before I install them will the actuators be up to the task of handling 300rwkw? How do they compare to the HKS ones and should I maybe just buy the HKS ones?

[gtr fan]

Well I have just been able to exchange my -5's for a pair of -9's. Can someone confirm the part number is correct - 707160-5009S?

I remember my -5's just read 707160-5. I am assuming Garrett has chnaged the numbering system along the way.

[Count Grantleyish]

I'm pretty sure it's the number, better look at Garrett website or contact them to confirm.

[J_R32]

does anyone know the reason why -9's do not come with actuators, only as a additional add on option? is it simply just a money grab being the more "popular choice"

[bradsm87]

does anyone know the reason why -9's do not come with actuators, only as a additional add on option? is it simply just a money grab being the more "popular choice"

Most Garretts like that have a part number with and without actuators. Some ppl want to save as much as possible by using stock actuators.

The 707160-9 is without

The 780371-1 is with

Other than that, it's the same turbo.

[gtr fan]

I think he means though you can get -7, -5 with actuators for the same price as -9's without actuators.

I don't understand why either but theres nothing you can do about it other than spring the $300 on actuators.

[george_afc_23]

Hey guys,

Just wondering if my understanding is coccerect here:

Garret -5's are very similar to hks 2530's? Which have most top end but least responsive?

Garret -9's are very similar to hks gt-ss? Unsure how they compare in terms of response and top end power?

Are garret -7's are similar to hks gt-rs? Least top end but most responsive?

If anyone could clarify this, it would be greatly appreciated...im bloody confused haha.

[maclarenf1]

Hey guys,

Just wondering if my understanding is coccerect here:

Garret -5's are very similar to hks 2530's? Which have most top end but least responsive?

Garret -9's are very similar to hks gt-ss? Unsure how they compare in terms of response and top end power?

Are garret -7's are similar to hks gt-rs? Least top end but most responsive?

If anyone could clarify this, it would be greatly appreciated...im bloody confused haha.

i am no expert but it goes like this

-5 AKA HKS 2530 - Good top end and good response also in RB26 with build internals and head work / Stroked engine, but for normal RB26 with stock internals / street driven a bit laggy, "this laggyness is not always clearly shown in a Dyno apparently, but noticeable on the road" when compared others. lot of people with -5 street driven and loving it

-7 AKA Nissan R34 N1 - good response and good balance of power for Street driven GTR , but by no means a bragging rights turbo when it comes to numbers

-9 AKA GT-SS - best response and good power for street package, but will run out of puff in the top end, better and new technology than -7 and most recommended for street package with mostly stock internals

-10 AKA GT-RS - big power figures and not so recommended for street GTR without built engine.

I will be getting -9 end of the year, not really interested in any thing else, unless -7 comes up in the forums for really good price

Just my 2C

Also check out single turbo conversion side of the world, if your thinking of GT-RS level of turbos.....

all around, good choice we have in GTR world i think

[george_afc_23]

i am no expert but it goes like this

-5 AKA HKS 2530 - Good top end and good response also in RB26 with build internals and head work / Stroked engine, but for normal RB26 with stock internals / street driven a bit laggy, "this laggyness is not always clearly shown in a Dyno apparently, but noticeable on the road" when compared others. lot of people with -5 street driven and loving it

-7 AKA Nissan R34 N1 - good response and good balance of power for Street driven GTR , but by no means a bragging rights turbo when it comes to numbers

-9 AKA GT-SS - best response and good power for street package, but will run out of puff in the top end, better and new technology than -7 and most recommended for street package with mostly stock internals

-10 AKA GT-RS - big power figures and not so recommended for street GTR without built engine.

I will be getting -9 end of the year, not really interested in any thing else, unless -7 comes up in the forums for really good price

Just my 2C

Also check out single turbo conversion side of the world, if your thinking of GT-RS level of turbos.....

all around, good choice we have in GTR world i think

Cheers mate! That helps a lot.

[discopotato03]

Dash 5 similar but not the same as a HKS GT2530 , different turbine housing and compressor wheel .

I thought R34 GTR N1 turbos were a unique GT2556R and not an off the shelf GT2560R .

Dash 9 IS a GTSS and they are supplied to HKS without actuators so they can fit their own higher rate ones .

A .

[R31Nismoid]

-7 is def the 34N1 equivalent. Tad smaller than the -9 which well all know is identical to GTSS

[george_afc_23]

Are -10's the Garrett GT2871R Ball Bearing Turbos. You guys hav much info about the -10 in terms of when they come on boost, top end power etc? Do many gtrs hav this setup?

Cheers

[R31Nismoid]

read the dyno threads?

basically nothing below 5000-5500rpm on a 2.6-2.8lt, making 450rwkw+

and that's obviously taking into account the head work needed to support etc.

there is plenty of info in the pages here.

realistically unless you have a big budget 3lt+ motor or just pure drag race car 2.6-2.8lt, then they are a bad choice.