Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

got the piping done, was very happy with the end result, they even moved the pod filter to a better spot to take full avantage of the larger whole for the pipes in the wheel arch!

its a mix of mild steel and alumimun, mostly 2.5" with a bit of 3" for the afm and pod filter!!

  • Replies 2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Crimmo: was specking to ghostrider and he said you are looking to get a r200 diff, are you looking to get one with the rear dr brakes and calipers attached and use them as i'd be interested in chipping in with you if you didn't need the brakes??

Hi Guys,

We have had an in length discussion on brakes on another post, all the time some getting rather confused and heated at the same time.

We discussed effectiveness on different sizes and set ups, comparitive solutions, best or worst, recommended or not.

Rear brake rotor diameters, better than others etc, etc, etc.

I was all but crucified for my sticking to the fact that our DR30 rears were more than adequate, for almost all conditions. With upgrades like slotted rotors and EBC pad compounds, they would be better than most even under race conditions & chasing through the Brisbane Hills area, my contention being the leaverage of the 290 diameter rotor and the best part, THEY WERE/ARE SIMPLE BOLT ON UPGRADES.

I used to drive an MX73 Cressida & now have an MX83. Bigger, heavier, more powerful etc, etc.

The MX73 had 248 x 22 ventilated fronts & 269 x 18 ventilated rear.

The MX83 has 256 x 22 ventilated fronts & 272 x 10 SOLID rear.

GO FIGURE????????

Hi Guys,

Anyone wishing to convert their STOCK MR30 shifter into a short shifter, let me know.

And it's not making it shorter in length, it's making the throw in the gearbox about 20mm shorter, similar to the Nismo RB short shifter, but the cost is ZERO.

The modification I speak of, is for the STOCK AS A ROCK R30 shift lever, used on L series engines. Not RB conversions, for these the mod is a new shifter @ about $200/300.00

After modification the length of the throw physically shortens by about 20mm.

Does not work or affect R32/33 shift levers. AND

rsx84,

the shifter you are looking at does shorten the stroke/throw by about 20mm also.

Hey, i have an 1984 Paul Newman HR30 and i'm having some problems with my diff. Do the HR's have standard LSD? i bought it off a guy who told me it had an RT200 or something and the other day i was trying to cut some circles in a car park and it just wouldn't light up properly. i took it to my friends place and we put it up on axle stands and only one of the wheels was turning. i've been lead to believe that this means it is an open wheeler... is this correct? If it is standard LSD where can i get one?

Cheers

Yeah Sam, if it spins only one, or spins one one way and the other one the other way, its an open wheeler. Mine spins both the same way, and I've also gone to the trouble of checking that it works properly in real world conditions :lol

I thought HR's had a LSD as standard though.... so maybe yours is just shagged

Actually... having seen Paul driving it before, I know it had a working LSD a year and a bit ago

Hey, i have an 1984 Paul Newman HR30 and i'm having some problems with my diff. Do the HR's have standard LSD? i bought it off a guy who told me it had an RT200 or something and the other day i was trying to cut some circles in a car park and it just wouldn't light up properly. i took it to my friends place and we put it up on axle stands and only one of the wheels was turning. i've been lead to believe that this means it is an open wheeler... is this correct? If it is standard LSD where can i get one?

Cheers

Sam,

If you went back through this post I think you would find referrence to your problem, as I have addressed it before.

The Paul Newman comes standard with a 3.9:1 R200 LSD, the problem is, Nissan used it as a marketing ploy, rather than a performance factor.

Your R200 LSD is working as an open diff, primarily because the preload in the diff is to low, it's stock at 15/20lb which is far to low, hence it's tendancy to only spin one wheel.

You have to take it to a Diff specialist, or I can enquire from my man here in Sydney if there is anywhere in SA that he can recommend, but for street use, the pre load has to come up to about 50lb and for track, 70/80lb.

It's going to cost you about $400/500.00 for this modification.

Hope this helps.

Yeh! Well it seems he has a problem, although it is extremely rare, that an R200 breaks. It is considered after all to be the IRS equivalent to a 9 inch.

The crown & pinion can go, but not usually the LSD centre.

And L20ET is rated at 108Kw (145hp) engine power.

And the Paul Newman definitely doesnt have the 200hp some people have been quoting, its much nearer the 145 of the standard L20ET

that would have been me talking adout my mates and that figure is ture for his and is also at the fly as stated?? something for you to think about ha!!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
    • I am truly amazed someone on this planet was able to cycle the pump using a scan tool. I've always ghetto cycled them on Nissan 90s shit boxes by slamming the brakes and pulling the handbrake to agitate the rear wheels enough to cause a speed difference
×
×
  • Create New...