Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is it Endless that do the Greenstuff? I had greenstuff in the front of my supra, and they were EBC. or have things changed. Why black stuff in the rear? Aren't they the higher end ones, ie need a lot more heat to work?

I've read most of the posts, but after 20 something pages it got a bit hard to focus and I think I skipped bits..my bad...

I'm going to end up pulling the brakes out and tracing them...I can see it coming.

  • Replies 2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Is it Endless that do the Greenstuff? I had greenstuff in the front of my supra, and they were EBC. or have things changed. Why black stuff in the rear? Aren't they the higher end ones, ie need a lot more heat to work?

I've read most of the posts, but after 20 something pages it got a bit hard to focus and I think I skipped bits..my bad...

I'm going to end up pulling the brakes out and tracing them...I can see it coming.

i knew there was an E in there somewhere.. go to autobarn and ask for bendix as they will have the guide, i've looked in it and they have outlines of the pads, they have a listing for the fj powered cars! i'm running bendix comp-X pads...

i knew there was an E in there somewhere.. go to autobarn and ask for bendix as they will have the guide, i've looked in it and they have outlines of the pads, they have a listing for the fj powered cars! i'm running bendix comp-X pads...

they have a listing for fj's?! w00t! I coudn't get decent bendix's for the supra. Stupid bendix. I put in standard bendix pads..and took them back out that same afternoon and turfed them.

That still doesn't tell me why to run blacks in the rear! haha

The number I gave is for fronts, they seem ok, not chewing out the rotors as fast as the metallic pads that were in there before

alright thanks, I've got the spare parts guy looking into it, hopefully he can come up with something! and hopefully he can find a listing for the back cause they are really stuffed!

While on the topic of brakes again just wondering if anyone has looked into a brake upgrade for the rear, I have the fronts sorted but to do the rear as well would be nice but not necesarry, either that or I need to buy new rotors which arent cheap at all, so I would like to spend the money going bigger as bigger is better in my books.

Anyone?????

Im only guessing but what about bolting the standard fronts to the rear? (disc and caliper) if they ARE the same that would be stage one as you now have vented rears. stage two would then be honda accord calipers and hilux calipers

I have heard this is a straight bolt on for the front and are 4 mm larger in diam as well as 4pot calipers.

you would also probably need a brake bias valve for stage two because your front rear bias would be all fuct up. But like i said, im only guessing. hope this is of some help....

Project Skylux Update....engine and box is sitting in place. firewall chopped back 150mm. And ive made the sump and center oil pickup...its getting there ! (slowly)

Im only guessing but what about bolting the standard fronts to the rear? (disc and caliper)  if they ARE the same that would be stage one as you now have vented rears.  stage two would then be honda accord calipers and hilux calipers

 

I have heard this is a straight bolt on for the front and are 4 mm larger in diam as well as 4pot calipers.    

 

you would also probably need a brake bias valve for stage two because your front rear bias would be all fuct up.  But like i said, im only guessing. hope this is of some help....

I havn't checked but I'd be a little surprised if they were the same diameter, feel free to prove me wrong though. I can't see hilux discs going on with being redrilled and whatnot as they're a 6 stud (on the 4wd's). Why the honda accord calipers? The backs are going to be a bitch because of the handbrake on the caliper IMHO.

What about r32/33 skyline or sylvia discs? they're 4 stud, I have no idea how close to fitting they'd go though. or get a set of good discs/pads/fluid for the current set up. Cause I find the standard ones, even in the absolutely stuffed condition mine are, aren't too bad. Put on a good set of braided hoses and I reckon they should crank. Or stop you from cranking even.

BRAKES!!!!

They would depend a lot on the use of the vehicle.

My HR30 PNV has over 250rwkw (about 340rwhp) more than most of us on this thread will ever have.

I have BNR32 GTR fronts (296 x 32 ventilated rotors) with Nissan 4 spot alloy callipers, the rears are standard DR30 2000RS (290 x 10 solid rotors) with standard single spot calliper.

Bearing in mind that a large proportion of the braking is done by the fronts, using slotted rotors and EBC, Endless or similar pad upgrade, you should find the braking more than adequate for all but the most extreme race conditions. S/S braided lines will also help, as they eliminate the expansion the rubber lines get under application pressures. Makes the pedal feel harder.

Z32 300ZX (280 x 30 ventilated rotors) are also an option, but in both cases, the offset of the front wheels has to change to alloy clearance on the 4 spot calliper.

My car is going to engineering with stock DR30 all round and after fronts will be modified to suit BNR32 GTR, because wheel spacers OF ANY KIND are illegal and very necessary to cater for the 4 spot calliper.

I am planning to use my car for Super Sprints & Hillclimbs and they will be the best I can get, for value.

Someone please tell me why I need bigger, but first go to the Jenesis site www.r30.co.jp and tell me where they say anything bigger than DR30 rears are required, and they have been racing these cars since long before we all got interested in them.

I can't see hilux discs going on with being redrilled and whatnot as they're a 6 stud (on the 4wd's).

My bad...typo...i meant hilux calipers. what ive heard is they are a bolt on for the front.

Why the honda accord calipers?
I meant Accord discs.......maybe it was prelude tho......i dont remember..

but like I said...im guessing , because i dont remember for sure......maybe i jogged someone's memory who DOES know :D

I just looked at an old issue of HPI where they bolted R33 GTS25t brakes on to a CA18 Silvia. The 4 pot callipers bolted straight on to the Silvia calliper mounts, and they just used rotors that were 275mm vented, 4*114.3 (cant remember the thickness though, but reasonably thick) that JMS sourced.

Are our calliper mounts the same as S13? If they are then this seems to be a reasonably good way to go

I just looked at an old issue of HPI where they bolted R33 GTS25t brakes on to a CA18 Silvia.  The 4 pot callipers bolted straight on to the Silvia calliper mounts, and they just used rotors that were 275mm vented, 4*114.3 (cant remember the thickness though, but reasonably thick) that JMS sourced.

Are our calliper mounts the same as S13?  If they are then this seems to be a reasonably good way to go

You all got me f#@ked!

Why keep f#@king around with 275, when our stock fronts are 274, 4 spot callipers I can understand, but no advantage in 1mm.

As far as I know, all Nissan S13/14/15 & Skyline DR imports have 100mm mount centres.

Bet the JMS conversion was Z32 (280 x 30) set up, as it's a very common upgrade in Silvia circles, just re drill the rotor to suit 4 x 114.3, instead of 5 x 114.3.

The big problem is hub offset, but maybe I should investigate this eh! maybe S13 ABS hubs might be same as HR31 ABS hubs. If HR31 ABS type hubs can be located, I'm led to believe the Z32 conversion is a simple BOLT ON affair.

I just looked at an old issue of HPI where they bolted R33 GTS25t brakes on to a CA18 Silvia.  The 4 pot callipers bolted straight on to the Silvia calliper mounts, and they just used rotors that were 275mm vented, 4*114.3 (cant remember the thickness though, but reasonably thick) that JMS sourced.

Are our calliper mounts the same as S13?  If they are then this seems to be a reasonably good way to go

No! there to close together for the later calipars you'd need to get custom calipar mounts made, thats the problem the front struts wont let you bolt on any decent calipers and the rotors incorparate the hubs so you have to fabracate something to upgrade an all...

r33 in the N/A version have the 4x114.3 stud pattern so there rotors and calipars should slip and bolt on to the silvia fronts??

You all got me f#@ked!

Why keep f#@king around with 275, when our stock fronts are 274, 4 spot callipers I can understand, but no advantage in 1mm.

As far as I know, all Nissan S13/14/15 & Skyline DR imports have 100mm mount centres.

Bet the JMS conversion was Z32 (280 x 30) set up, as it's a very common upgrade in Silvia circles, just re drill the rotor to suit 4 x 114.3, instead of 5 x 114.3.

The big problem is hub offset, but maybe I should investigate this eh! maybe S13 ABS hubs might be same as HR31 ABS hubs. If HR31 ABS type hubs can be located, I'm led to believe the Z32 conversion is a simple BOLT ON affair.

with the hr31 stuff your talking changing struts too.. to make it a bolt on thing?

here pics of what we need??

The JMS upgrade for the Silvia in HPI used GTSt Type m 4 pots with new 4*114.3 rotors (not redrilled 5 studs) they might have been NA rotors, not sure.

So basically we need different struts?

You just need wheels that instead of having dish have the hub recessed in the centre with the spokes on the outside

The big problem is hub offset, but maybe I should investigate this eh! maybe S13 ABS hubs might be same as HR31 ABS hubs. If HR31 ABS type hubs can be located, I'm led to believe the Z32 conversion is a simple BOLT ON affair.

Are'nt all HR31 hubs the same? I thouhgt the "ring gear" bit for the ABS was just added to the inside of the hub,with no offset change....

As we know the HR31 struts have 100mm mounts,so type M or Z32 4-pots would fit,but are you also saying the bigger type-M/Z32 rotors have the same bearing as the HR31's??

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...