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depending on cost, that might sway me once more.

Now that I think about it, the cycly idle wankiness the v44 is going to give me, I'm not going near any formals this year. Not keen to get defected hard :/

you do however have to have antilag turned on to use cyclic idle, keep in mind though that your brakes are vac assisted and with cyclic idle setup you have very little vaccume and that does effect braking performance quite a bit.

Mmmmmm rotational idle goodness.

I wonder what the fine/raping is for having a car louder than Jesus on rotational idle while nitrous purging at a school formal......

*I'll let you guys know :/*

Edited by PM-R33
what IS that? and what is the point of it?

/noob

that is cyclic idle, it is part of the antilag system and is designed to help cool the engine/turbo/exhaust down by not firing all the cyls as antilag dumps a lot of heat into the exhaust/turbo. dispite sounding as lumpy as it does the car is doing ~1500-2000rpm

when you load up the revs it stops the cyclic idle as its name suggests it only effects the idle, when you get into the antilag areas it adds more fuel, reduces the ignition timing massively and doesnt fire on all cyls so you essentialy are firing the cyl into the exhaust manifold on some and putting raw fuel into the exhaust manifold on the others giving you lots of very hot gas to spin up the turbo (and the cyclic idle is there to help cool this down and keep the revs sane with the throttle open ~20% when "fully closed").

its not great for your turbo or cat (which will not last long before its insides are smashed to pieces/melted) as you pop and bang when the engine revs drop between gear changes/exiting corners keeping the turbo spinning nice and quick. this keeps the turbo ready to come on boost as soon as you get on the loud pedal so you get less of the wait as a turbo spools back up, it can also be used off the line to launch at full boost but you need a lot of grip to keep from just doing a burnout instead.

you need to keep in mind that this all requires someone to set it up in the ECU/TB, it is more than just a case of turning it on and it working out of the box.

The antilag launching in a RWD on street tyres is quite pointless I found. I had it setup on the Microtech a while back, was very fun but it would just paint lines down the road. Definetely need some damn good grip on the rear to benefit from it.

  • 3 weeks later...

Any input on the comment saying E85 has lubrication issues?

I can see 2 possible factors at play on this.

1. Oil dilution - can be solved by more frequent oil changes (maybe every 2500km).

2. Less lubrication on the upper cylinder walls (not sure on this - just a thought bubble). Would the higher fuel content in the chamber and properties of ethanol cause higher friction/wear - possibly by removing lubricant reside from the walls during filling/compression strokes?

Edited by simpletool

I have had no issue using 300v or now Sougi 6000, the oil is stable and clean. Not so for the Castrol edge, it went all milky within a few days, not sure why.

As long as your thermostat brings the oil up to a suitable temp quickly, (ethanol evaporates at 70 degrees.) you wont have any issues. I have a catch can setup which fills within 2 months with an ethanol and water mix, I simply turn a ball valve to drain it.

Any friction issues will only be at cold start as that is the only time the fuel is liquid in the chamber.

yup...

I use turbolight 4100 10w40 as motul have recommended not to use 300v with e85 and it is perfect

5000k and it never goes milky... beyond that i wouldn't know :)

  • 6 months later...

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