Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So got an interesting sound coming out of my back left wheel...

It basically sounds like there is a bearing bouncing around in there, at really slow crawling speed i can here it fall and bounce to a stop. "Tick (loud)... tick(softer) tick (softer still) tick tick tick tick... nothing. So yeah don't know if that helps i have taken the wheel right off and found nothing unusual, didn't dare venture into the hub or anything like that

is it going to be wheel bearing or something annoyingly expensive like that??

any help would be appreciated

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259900-ticking-noise-in-back-left-wheel/
Share on other sites

i tried to do that but it wouldn't spin... i had the handbrake off but it might not of release properly or something

made sure you weren't in gear too?

the more severe cases of wheel bearing failure can be diagnosed by rocking the hub in and out from the centre of the car but it doesn't sound like you have this

and to add to ^^^ might have something to do with the attessa system linking all 4 wheels - i'm going to assume you need to lift the front wheels too to be able to spin the rears? could be wrong though as i've never owned an awd car

I remember having a similar thing after a wheel alignment.

I took the car straight back & they found some dirt that was throwing the wheel of and somehow causing the ticking noise. :D

Still don't know how, but no probs as soon as they cleaned it out.

when picked up mine second hand.

got handed a recipt of any repairs done to the car.

REAR left wheels bearing replaced . think it was $100-150 max

being a rear left also on yours may be same problem, never heard the ticking noise as i didnt own it at the time

when picked up mine second hand.

got handed a recipt of any repairs done to the car.

REAR left wheels bearing replaced . think it was $100-150 max

being a rear left also on yours may be same problem, never heard the ticking noise as i didnt own it at the time

Wheel bearing doesn't really squeak or tick... more like a constant rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.

At least that is the sound my front passenger wheel bearing assembly made.

May not be the case for you but I have heard of the guys that change tires leaving old tire valves inside the tire(accidently of course). So might be worth taking the wheel off and giving it a shake. May not be the case for you, but at least its gona eliminate one other possibility.

Thanks for all the imput guys :D

I have jacked the car up and i also thought the wheel wouldn't spin due to the AWD system so wasn't to phased about that.

I did also shake the wheel itself a bit and the noise is not coming form that so i don't think changing the wheel with another would make any difference.

I am thinking its just some kind of stone in there some where thats kinda bouncing around... just SOOOO annoying. Im taking the car in soon for some work so will get em to pull the whole wheel hub.assembly apart n find the little bugger.

Cheers all

Could be way off but do you have 2 or 3 piece wheels? My Celsior has some 3 piece Enkei's and I had a clicking sound too. Turns out the wheels were a little bit loose.

So if that's the case check of the studs and see how you go.

may be worth swapping wheels side to side to see if the noise moves to that side.

not something caught up around the drive shaft?

You cant do that side to side if tryres are unidirectional. Only front to back.

I had that once on an old Nissan stanza but from the front wheel. I eventually traced it to the lead wheel balancing weight that wasn't gripping the rim tight enough and every time the wheel moved, especially at slow speed the weight would move round the wheel and tap against the weight on the other side. Can't remember what it was like at speed cos obviously the wheel was not balanced,

pull the wheel off again and check the shims/springs around the brakes pads and make sure they are not touching the disc.

also check between the caliper and disc make sure no little pebble/stone stuck anywhere bouncing/grinding against the disc seen that happen before.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
×
×
  • Create New...