Jump to content
SAU Community

Engine Internals

Adz2332

By Adz2332,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Blitz Grand Master

Blitz

Posted
Posted
Hey all,

Im looking at a car to buy at the moment. And the owner is unsure of the internals of the engine as it was built in japan etc

Is there any way, short of ripping the head off, i could find out or see whats in the engine??

Short answer, no.

Blitz Grand Master

Blitz

Posted
Posted
Lol thanks!

bugger.

so if i remove the head to have a look ill be up for new gaskets etc

Unless its a metal Head Gasket and still fit to be re-used, yes.

Have you asked for receipts for the claimed engine work which may document what was done/fitted?

FineLine Grand Master

FineLine

Posted
Posted
Plus im sure he wont be to happy getting the head removed to have a look only to find out its not and me not buying it :S

Put a proposal to him. If its a forgeded engine you'll buy it and pay the cost of removing the head for inspection. If it isnt he pays and you dont buy.

He was obviously the one that raised the possibility of it being a built engine so put him on the spot.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

you want this:

SLIPV300E.jpg

but without receipts etc to prove exactly what is in there, and who built it, and how long ago it was built then you would be best off treating it as a standard factory engine and I certainly wouldn't pay any extra for a car that comes with a lucky dip engine.... which is what you have here.

femno Grand Master

femno

Posted
Posted

Putting the scope down the plug hole aint gonna so much, all youre gonna see is carbon.

I dont know about 25s, but I know 26s have the baffle plates bolted to the bottom of the cradle, you wouldnt be able to see through those either going through the sump.

With no proof, id argue its standard and he trying to have you on.

..or you could put the boost to 2 bar and see if it cracks a ring land or not haha.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
but without receipts etc to prove exactly what is in there, and who built it, and how long ago it was built then you would be best off treating it as a standard factory engine and I certainly wouldn't pay any extra for a car that comes with a lucky dip engine.... which is what you have here.

Exactly how i would treat it.

Even if it did have forged pistsons... if its been running in the high 200rwkw range for a few years its probably fairly tired anyhow from the beating it would have taken.

Either the seller pays to have it inspected, or you treat it as stock motor IMO.

You shouldnt be paying a cent, onus is on him to prove what he's selling, not you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • soviet_merlin
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
    • niZmO_Man
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      There is a warning that "this thread is super old" but they ignore that anyway...
    • TurboTapin
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      With 10% Ethanol, we're talking 2-3% fuel consumption difference. The emissions reductions and octane boost in my opinion far outweigh this almost non existent loss.    My tanks sitting at 80%. Luckily that should go down fast as I'm on vacation again for the next two weeks. 
×
×
  • Create New...