Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I havent quite read all of this thread yet and don't know if anyone has mentioned it, but on topic due to high servicing costs.

This week I was at Nissan Moorooka (Queensland) and had a sticky around the "GTR Service Centre!" I guess they have to make back the money on that fit out somehow!!!!

Michael

  • Replies 151
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Some more info in Dan Fewster's article in The Motor Report today. The first ADM owner has taken delivery and the article outlines some of the dealership servicing plan. The new owner still appears to be smiling at this stage...

http://www.themotorreport.com.au/25339/fir...after-midnight/

  • 2 weeks later...

Here at Willall Racing we just fitted a nice track upgrade package that we do for those interested in keeping the performance up and the temperatures under control during a circuit session :(

raceservice1.jpg

We fitted -

WR35TM Transmission Fluid

WR35DF Differential Fluid

WR35MP Performance Midpipe Assy

WR35TC GR6 Transmission Intercooler Assy (full kit)

Heres a nice shot from under the car showing some of the parts involved :banana:

raceservice2.jpg

Has anyone priced up aftermarket pads/rotors etc yet?

My initial enquiries are around $5.5K for Alcon Rotors with Endless pads all round. Better than the $10K stock set-up but I'm used to paying $50ea for my R34 rotors so its still quite a shock to me to this stage! LOL

Has anyone priced up aftermarket pads/rotors etc yet?

My initial enquiries are around $5.5K for Alcon Rotors with Endless pads all round. Better than the $10K stock set-up but I'm used to paying $50ea for my R34 rotors so its still quite a shock to me to this stage! LOL

I've seen the AP replacement rotors for around $850AU each - pads, it's really variable depending on what you want.

  • 2 weeks later...

Yep it could be wild, just as well we are driving the car not the price.

When asked:

"how much is a GTR" I respond, the car is cheap

"do they chew the juice" The fuel is free, running it is the only sizable expense.

Here at Willall Racing we just fitted a nice track upgrade package that we do for those interested in keeping the performance up and the temperatures under control during a circuit session :thumbsup:

We fitted -

WR35TM Transmission Fluid

WR35DF Differential Fluid

WR35MP Performance Midpipe Assy

WR35TC GR6 Transmission Intercooler Assy (full kit)

Heres a nice shot from under the car showing some of the parts involved :)

Martin, Just noticed your article in this months wheels, I am looking at placing an order for all the bits and pieces I will need for the 2000km service, can you PM me with what I need, I will be damned if I am paying Nissan this sort of money.

Cheers,

Jeff

OK....I have finally got pricing from my dealership.....

Trans Oil $100 Litre (10 Litres Needed) They get it in a 20 Litre drum and can do 2 cars with that.

Diff Oil $600.00 for the replacement (so that is about $200.00 a litre)

Labour $198.00 per hour for the above work ontop of the prices quoted.

Adjusting the alignment before a track day - 2.5 hours

Bolts for the bottom of the car (Basically they are claiming that all bolts need to be replaced everytime they are removed) $100 a set.

So for a track day where your oil goes over 130 you will be up for about $3,000.00.

That is assuming nothing goes wrong with your brakes.

$3,000 for a service.....you have to be kidding.

I wanted to get my car dealer serviced, but at those prices they can take a flying f*ck through a rolling doughnut.

Martin, your article was right on the money in Wheels.

OK....I have finally got pricing from my dealership.....

Trans Oil $100 Litre (10 Litres Needed) They get it in a 20 Litre drum and can do 2 cars with that.

Diff Oil $600.00 for the replacement (so that is about $200.00 a litre)

Labour $198.00 per hour for the above work ontop of the prices quoted.

Adjusting the alignment before a track day - 2.5 hours

Bolts for the bottom of the car (Basically they are claiming that all bolts need to be replaced everytime they are removed) $100 a set.

So for a track day where your oil goes over 130 you will be up for about $3,000.00.

That is assuming nothing goes wrong with your brakes.

$3,000 for a service.....you have to be kidding.

I wanted to get my car dealer serviced, but at those prices they can take a flying f*ck through a rolling doughnut.

Martin, your article was right on the money in Wheels.

What are these $100 use-once bolts?

FWIW, i had the car up on a hoist at my local tyre place the other day. To get the alignment maxed out/checked. We pulled the underside covers off, and put them all back when done. I think the charge was $70... this stuff doesnt need to be expensive. You certainly should NOT be paying $200/hr for basic service work.

all the fluids and consumables can probably be had much cheaper.

As for the 130* thing, you can easily manage that. I am not saying you will never have to replace tranny fluid, but there has to be a happy medium.

Martin, Just noticed your article in this months wheels, I am looking at placing an order for all the bits and pieces I will need for the 2000km service, can you PM me with what I need, I will be damned if I am paying Nissan this sort of money.

Cheers,

Jeff

i agree with you about Nissan's prices etc but correct me if I'm wrong, there is no 2000km service.

It is a complimentary POS (performance optimisation service).

the first service unless you track the thing is 10,000km or 6 months.

my dealer estimated that to cost around $600-800?? (sorry i cant remember exactly at present) and is basically only an engine oil change and a bunch of inspection/lubrication points.

Have told my nissan dealer about the Willall products and they seem ok with that, as have other buyers at the dealership. won't know for sure what they think until a warranty claim comes in but I would assume there isn't going to be the deluge of warranty claims we all talk of avoiding anyway. I am sure though that no one wants to be the first to open that can of worms.

out of interest, how do the willall prices for tranny and diff oil compare? I understand the differences extend beyond price and to other issues regarding performance.

$3000 a track day... Jesus Christ!

I dont think it will be 3k for an average track day.

The pre track inspection though is a total crock. they bleed line, adjust fluid levels and align shite..... told me I could go off track if my brake lines had air in them!

Hope there is no air in the brake lines next time I go past a school crossing......

Edited by handbrake
What are these $100 use-once bolts?

FWIW, i had the car up on a hoist at my local tyre place the other day. To get the alignment maxed out/checked. We pulled the underside covers off, and put them all back when done. I think the charge was $70... this stuff doesnt need to be expensive. You certainly should NOT be paying $200/hr for basic service work.

all the fluids and consumables can probably be had much cheaper.

As for the 130* thing, you can easily manage that. I am not saying you will never have to replace tranny fluid, but there has to be a happy medium.

So you have to drive it like a pussy? i don't know about you but if i had a supposed "supercar" i'd want to drive hard around a race track.

So you have to drive it like a pussy? i don't know about you but if i had a supposed "supercar" i'd want to drive hard around a race track.

Dunno what you mean. If you are referring to the oil temps, all you have to do is monitor temps from inside the cabin. I can assure you all GTR drivers keep a close eye on them. 3 to 5 hard laps and a couple of cool downs isnt that difficult.

they can take a flying f*ck through a rolling doughnut.

:) Havnt heard that one before, i like it

It is a complimentary POS (performance optimisation service).

I hope Nissan understand there's another significant meaning for "POS"

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...