Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good day. For the best result the .82 rear housing is recommended working with a ATR43G2/3 CHRA on a RB25det. It is noticably laggier compare to a .63 rear housing, but it will be able to hold steady boost to red line.

The .63 is be able to get you over 330rwhp (250rwkws+) with similar response to a stock turbo. How ever it is not capable of holding high boost. you will find it always drops to about 17 psi towards red line unless you run an external gate. I've tested it my self and done lot of reading through forums and webs, and I've seen this happening to all GT30x .63 internally gated turbos.

Personally I would recommend you to run a ATR28G2/3 with .82 rear housing, even there is little bit of lag down low it will still produce plenty of torque to give you this hard pull sensation. and when do have better mods you can get power just by increasing boost level.

Ps. Crans in case you are reading this post. I've sent you a ATR28G4 with .82 rear housing instead of .63 as you were after 280rwkws+.

Also like to add one more thing. Our ATR43's .82 rear housing has T3 flange and 6x bolt pattern dump for OEM R33 upgrade. This can also be purchased with any high flow options for $350 additional. Or $500 for any one who wants to upgrade from smaller rear housings.

Is any one interested to purchase a evaluation unit of ATR43G4? its in identical spec as a 3582R in .82 bolton rear housing internally gated. I will do one unit only for $1500 with oil feeding line, and I will refund $400 after receiving its dyno reading. The car must be good enough to run on 20psi of boost with supporting mods. Perferred Melbournese, and dyno tunned by Status or Phase Auto.

Is any one interested to purchase a evaluation unit of ATR43G4? its in identical spec as a 3582R in .82 bolton rear housing internally gated. I will do one unit only for $1200 with oil feeding line, and I will refund $100 after receiving its dyno reading. The car must be good enough to run on 20psi of boost with supporting mods. Perferred Melbournese, and dyno tunned by Status or Phase Auto.

Your about 2 months too early, doing a basic rebuild on an engine now and will need a new turbo when its done, will also be getting trent to tune it once its done.

Some photos of a fresh built ATR43G4 in .50 Comp with .82 rear. 600HP rated (Looks similar to CN KKR but very different ) . This will bolt on to stock Rb25's manifold and dump. Generic actuator is likely to have problems holding high boost on RB25det. We are intergrating an 38mm external gate into it for greater boost control. I will post up photos of it as we move along.

atr43g4front.jpg

atr43g4back.jpg

atr43g4wg.jpg

just reporting in.

got my standard r33 turbo flowed last week. just to the next power level ~230rwkw.

only after the beerings went, i wasnt searching for more power.

but going full metal wheels, with the track day action was a must.

install

pain in the ass. water lines need stuffing around. bending, unbolting, swearing, skin off knuckles etc

be prepared for trauma.

results

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...60#entry4948901

power and torque are up, but so is the lag.

i'm getting use to it, having not driven a garret or hks i cant compare. but it feels like it pulls harder than stock.

track performance

definite benefit at philip island

undecided of benefit at winton, have to swap up gears with more power, loosing time. have to keep the turbo above 3.5k, means high revs in

2nd and spinning the tyres. lost of fun, but not the fastest way around.

HI John:

Great to get some track side feedbacks.

With bigger and heavier steel wheels it will obviously be laggier. Its a turbo so can't get both power and response on the same hit.

I understand that you are racing in stock class, But I'm not sure if OP6 R34 turbine housing is classified as aftermarket upgrade. Strongly recommended if If not, that would give an extra 40Mn of torque, and with injectors (not for your current class) should see 260rwkws.

Stao,

280rwkw sounds good, how far will she go if I chose to later on change to an external gate setup?

Quality of the turbo also looks pretty damn good. Dump pipe welds are of good quality aswell.

Only problem is the VBand clamp you sent is too narrow to fit to both the turbo and dump at the same time.

I sent you an eamil about it about an hour ago.

Hopefully she will be sitting on the 25 shortly.

I'll get another one measured up to swap the one you have.

It is strongly recommended that if you do run a external gate. I found external gates holds boost lot more steady. I will inform you tomorrow when I get the Vband checked.

  • 2 weeks later...
Is any one interested to purchase a evaluation unit of ATR43G4? its in identical spec as a 3582R in .82 bolton rear housing internally gated. I will do one unit only for $1500 with oil feeding line, and I will refund $400 after receiving its dyno reading. The car must be good enough to run on 20psi of boost with supporting mods. Perferred Melbournese, and dyno tunned by Status or Phase Auto.

^^^^^

Is this offer still available? I'll pick it up this weekend. Mine engine is ready from rebuild.

With out going through this whole thread, do you have a bolt on turbo that has successfully produced 260-280RWKW with out any dramas?

Hiflow or other? I'm interested in the above but this thread seems like a running development?

The ATR43G3 .82 is good for what you need it for. I've managed 273rwkws with it on a RB25det with 5 cracked pistons based on 17psi of boost.

atr43272rwkws.jpg

I'm currently experiencing actuation issues for it to hold high boost. just like this thread here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gt...21-t289241.html

The part No. came back as a CAT actuator that is made for 26psi application. I've ordered the same actuator which due for testing next week.

Kwickr33 I will install this actuator to your turbo if you are happy to do some evaluations. or please wait for about a week for me to test out this new actuator. I will post up results once its done.

yes :blink: make sure you have the supporting mods and you should achive it. I have a highflow i chose to have a respsonsive setup i get fullboost at 17.5 psi.

with my supporting mods i got 233kws but i had leaking issue's.

tc.

Do you do highflowings for VG30et turbos too?

Ive got one, but struggling to find the specs of it.

Can't tell if its 16v, 45v2/3 etc...

All i was told is that it was from a single turbo 300zx (Z31)

P1000699-1.jpg

DSC01089.jpg

DSC01090.jpg

its got:

14420v0300-01

410581-2

JL5950

written on it...

plus: .48 AR on the hot side.

can anyone help me out?

cos id be interested in a highflow in a few months time...

Edited by turbo x-trail

Yes we can high flow this turbo to archive about 450HP. It will cost $880 including GST. Every thing fit back the way it was. You don't need any new oil line or water lines for it to work.

that is to actually high flow your turbo. We will be build a 3071 52T spec sleeve bearing CHRA then machine your housings to suit it. So you get back a brand new turbo inside your factory housings. You need to send your turbo in to do that. and it takes in general around 3 working days.

Do you do highflowings for VG30et turbos too?

Ive got one, but struggling to find the specs of it.

Can't tell if its 16v, 45v2/3 etc...

All i was told is that it was from a single turbo 300zx (Z31)

P1000699-1.jpg

DSC01089.jpg

DSC01090.jpg

its got:

14420v0300-01

410581-2

JL5950

written on it...

plus: .48 AR on the hot side.

can anyone help me out?

cos id be interested in a highflow in a few months time...

Just a little bit off topic but that turbo has been used on either a 4cyl or a twin turbo V8, do you still have the manifold attached and what was it used on?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...