Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You may as well finish off the steps that have been suggested.

Then you will need to find another e-clip before you should boost it. You can still drive it as the rod will stay there, just dont boost it as it may fall off and if you nail it will go infinity boost. The e-clip should just slide out sidewards.

Yeh I've completed the steps, it appears the actuator was already perfectly adjusted as I didn't have to adjust it at all according to how Stao said to do it, so I can rule that out as a possible cause of my trouble. In the process of getting the rod back onto the arm now but fark me it's hard lol. Where can I get another e-clip from???

Edited by Hanaldo

Ok sweet, thanks mate. I suppose for size I can just take the broken eclip along?

I can not get this farkin rod back on the wastegate lol. Kind of emasculating, I can't even get it to budge :blush:

repco, sprint auto parts, autobarn, etc. the clip should be like $0.50c

dont worry, lost mine recently as well.

to put it back on, it'll be hard as fark, use a pair of pliers to pull like buggery, slip it on a bit, and hammer it down into place

take a off-boost drive down to your local auto store and grab a new clip. install with pliers.

all the best.

cant put my finger on what is wrong in your application. no suggestions other than retune the nistune ecu elsewhere (different dyno/operator)

bad luck about the costs Hanaldo. Not a nice feeling Im sure, trying to keep to a budget and then finding you've gone over budget with no result to speak of

All good, got it back on. Arms are scratched to shit now lol. Will have to wait until tomorrow to get a new clip, everything is shut now.

Anyway, can cross wastegate not closing properly off the list.

Here's today's tune from ATR43G2 in .63 rear housing.

Dark blue is no boost controller straight off the actuator, Max of 255rwkws @ 17psi

Light blue is with Wastegate controller, 267rwkws @ 19psi.

Driving ability is pretty good, and very agressive. Its a good little turbo for around 250rwkws mark.

Dyno run is based on 9 sec ramp timing.

atr43g2267rwkws.jpg

atr43g2267rwkwboost.jpg

I've got a strange dip around 3500RPMs not sure if its VCT related, but doesn't seems to be felt on road.

Almost identical Compare to same turbo based on an earlier run on a R34:

260rwkwsop6hf.JPG

Also we did multiple runs today, didn't have any issues with it pinning with high boost.

If it does pin at 16psi It generally means if the turbo's having issues sucking in or dispatching air (into engine and into exhaust). Lot of shaft speed losts when this happens, and exhaust blade will act as blockage for the engine to pin.

Hanaldo I enlarged your sheet it appeared to run on 14psi??

Also we did multiple runs today, didn't have any issues with it pinning with high boost.

If it does pin at 16psi It generally means if the turbo's having issues sucking in or dispatching air (into engine and into exhaust). Lot of shaft speed losts when this happens, and exhaust blade will act as blockage for the engine to pin.

Hanaldo I enlarged your sheet it appeared to run on 14psi??

What would cause that? Restriction I imagine? Where else could there be a restriction? Everything seems to be pointing to a restriction of some kind. I pulled all my intake and cooler piping off today, made sure none of it was blocked. Did another pressure drop test across the intercooler, only about 1psi difference. Did all hose clamps back up tightly and made sure everything was sealed, no vacuum leaks.

Stao which graph is that? I don't have a print out of boost?

I'm not sure. From what I've seen this issue happened to people whom made crappy metal filled intake pipes (also blamed the turbo). Very similar to yours scenario, which runs on very low timing, can't control boost, and any thing done to fix it made the engine pining worse. Check page 57.

Yours looks alike but doesn’t mean its the definit same problem.

My R33 S2 w. standard turbo makes [email protected] at the clutch, but that is as far as it goes :)

16PSI at 3000 rpm .... :)

Nistune, Cams, De-Cat, etc ...

a stock turbo'd rb25 making "way over 200rwkw" on 14psi... stao, whatever you are on can you pls organise me a pound? ;)

also trent's dyno with the appropriate correction reads the same as a dyno dynamics, my car has backed this up on 3-4 dyno's now

My R33 S2 w. standard turbo makes [email protected] at the clutch, but that is as far as it goes :)

16PSI at 3000 rpm .... :)

Nistune, Cams, De-Cat, etc ...

yea, which would amount to all of 190-200kw at the treads champ.

We talk rear wheel kw here, as measured off the rollers or hubs.

240kw is going to net you around 200-220rwkw.

You sure it is the stocker turbo? You realise the exhaust wheel is made of glass, well ok ceramic. Anything after 12PSI is asking to have the exhaust wheel end up down the exhaust.

Tao it would be interesting to see the ATR43G2 in .63 with some boost control. Comparing it to the 3071R's in the results thread it is laking in response a little, even against the .82 rear. And

youre run has is starting off at 1.4bar and bleeding off, where as the 3071's run a pretty constant 1.1-2bar'ish

yea, which would amount to all of 190-200kw at the treads champ.

I have the exact figure somewhere .. but I sure did not lose 50KW on the way to the wheels :)

But as said, this is as good as it gets with the standard turbo, and I never stress the turbine for too long ..

Hi!

Yes, it is the standard turbine ..

I ran this type of boost for over 14 months now ...

But as said, the turbo is not overly stressed since I rarely use the full boost for long.

Also I only have a SMIC from the R34 ..

I heard many stories about how much this unit can take, eventually the turbo might die :(

So I am already doing the research for a new turbo if my old unit should fail me one day ..

I definitely want to keep the low lag of the standard unit, so 14.7 PSI at 3000rpm is a must.

Attached is an older dyno-run.

Ignore Torque figure / shape, since the operator did not tie my car down well enough

We talk rear wheel kw here, as measured off the rollers or hubs.

240kw is going to net you around 200-220rwkw.

You sure it is the stocker turbo? You realise the exhaust wheel is made of glass, well ok ceramic. Anything after 12PSI is asking to have the exhaust wheel end up down the exhaust.

post-33912-0-54170100-1301698346_thumb.jpg

Edited by Torques

Tao it would be interesting to see the ATR43G2 in .63 with some boost control. Comparing it to the 3071R's in the results thread it is laking in response a little, even against the .82 rear. youre run has is starting off at 1.4bar and bleeding off, where as the 3071's run a pretty constant 1.1-2bar'ish

The one you've seen (based on status reading) are on 12 sec ramp timing, I've already tried to compare those at status,. mine's on 9 sec with current software. Based on 9 sec ramp they almost the same. information and comparision on dyno ramp is in page 73.

That is a very standard G2. The ATR43SS series with FNT turbine is probably some thing to look at if you really want the power curve to stand out.

I've running a high pressure actautor so won't be able to run any thing less then 20psi. The R34 Neo motor was running on 15psi and made the same power every where as mine which is interesting.

Hanaldo, Ive said this a few times on the forum yet a few years back I experienced a problem similar to yours.

The issue was I had an 80mm front pipe and a 76mm cat. The 4mm smaller ID caused all sorts of issues and resulted in about 60rwkw less than expected. We swapped to a fairly standard 80mm cat and got the 60rwkw back.

Im not suggesting your cat is bad or the wrong size, but im suspicious about your custom made dump. For the money I highly recommend you grab a justjap bellmouth dump, they are only $189 brand new... Im not sure how much shipping to WA will be though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...