Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

[hypergear]

There is a bore which the pin goes in, and a grove that holds the C clip in place. Its extremely important to squeeze the C clip fully into the holding grove, once in it stays in. I believe he did not sit it fully in to the grove, probably left half of the clip in and half hanging out.

I use C clips to secure turbo bearings as well. I generally squeeze them into the bore slightly above the grove then press it in with tool (a bore size rod), it gives me a "tick" sound once its in the grove, I double check and spin it around in the grove to make sure its secured.

They are little delicate jobs unfortunately it wasn't done correctly. Reflex belive they can sleeve the bore and make some new rings, so things are on track. will post some photos when I get every thing together.

[T.D]

Sucks to hear Stao, but at least this time you know it'll get done right

Is the mecahnic that did the first build who I think it is?

[hypergear]

Posting a little update:

This is a member with the updated Turbine wheel profile for the 21U high flow (stock R33 turbo).

It made of 260rwkws on 15psi of boost. This looks like on factory actuator.

Notice how much the torque curve have improved. Its holding lot better to red line. pretty happy with this ending result.

[Kenna802]

Thats a nice result Stao You will be pleased to know that my car was fired up last night as well even just running in car feels a heck of a lot more responsive and more torque. for the record i am not putting it on boost and will not rev it over 3000rpm for sometime. with that mod u did on my housing it feels like a totally different turbo

[GTScotT]

Thats a nice result Stao You will be pleased to know that my car was fired up last night as well even just running in car feels a heck of a lot more responsive and more torque. for the record i am not putting it on boost and will not rev it over 3000rpm for sometime. with that mod u did on my housing it feels like a totally different turbo

what mod was that?

[hypergear]

FNT

[ARTZ]

Posting a little update:

This is a member with the updated Turbine wheel profile for the 21U high flow (stock R33 turbo).

It made of 260rwkws on 15psi of boost. This looks like on factory actuator.

Notice how much the torque curve have improved. Its holding lot better to red line. pretty happy with this ending result.

I saw this in the dyno thread its a very good result, but somehow it doesnt seem realitstic, I mean honestly,260kw on 15psi and stock injectors, cmon somethings not right.

The curve is nice though and If 260kw is right its a brilliant result

[GTScotT]

Can you also elaborate on your new 2IU upgrade?

Potential buyers will want to know what sort of updates have been made for these great results!

[Kenna802]

The mod Stao did for me was on the exhaust housing on my ATR43G3 turbo

[Toshi]

Posting a little update:

This is a member with the updated Turbine wheel profile for the 21U high flow (stock R33 turbo).

It made of 260rwkws on 15psi of boost. This looks like on factory actuator.

Notice how much the torque curve have improved. Its holding lot better to red line. pretty happy with this ending result.

I tuned this ecu by mail order.

Power curve is bit flat around 100km/h.

I know boost come down around 2psi.

I found looks like same power curve dyno sheet in http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page__st__1440

And

Also my tune was done based on 9 sec ramp timing. I also did a comparison run based on 12 sec ramp timing (in red) which many of the dyno section sheets are, longer ramp rate makes all data appear slightly advanced. This is set depending on tuners preferences.

Please tell me what is ramp timing?

I tuned many hiflow turbo and normally smooth curve.

[hypergear]

The Shape and figures looks very like 9 sec ramp in comparison to the others did at status. I think you can tune the dip out of 95~115KM/H, Its just like mine with G2, which was just 1 degrees variance in timing.

[Toshi]

The Shape and figures looks very like 9 sec ramp in comparison to the others did at status. I think you can tune the dip out of 95~115KM/H, Its just like mine with G2, which was just 1 degrees variance in timing.

,

Thank you for replay.

Yes,if I adjust timing 1-2 degrees around 100km/h , I think dip will fix.

But if he install better boost controller and actuator then more boost , I think dip will fix.

Is this OP6 R34 hiflow?(he does not know so I made map for R34 hiflow)

If so how much is best boost?

Is 14-15psi too low?

[Pal]

first dyno sheet i've seen where the inlet temp is colder than the ambient temp??

[hypergear]

,

Thank you for replay.

Yes,if I adjust timing 1-2 degrees around 100km/h , I think dip will fix.

But if he install better boost controller and actuator then more boost , I think dip will fix.

Is this OP6 R34 hiflow?(he does not know so I made map for R34 hiflow)

If so how much is best boost?

Is 14-15psi too low?

This is a 21U turbine housing. From R33 not OP6. For the best shape graph I would perfer boost to peak 20psi at 3500rpms then allow it to drop to 17psi at 7000RPMs with a high pressure actautor. that would give the most mid range.

[Crans]

Can you explain more about the fnt?? can you do this mod to my 43g3?

[GTScotT]

Can you explain more about the fnt?? can you do this mod to my 43g3?

Yes, or he can provide you with his updated housing that does not use FNT.. Stao thinks the newer .82 is better than the old with FNT but has not posted results for it..

FNT is fixed nozzle technology. It has been explained a couple of times in this thread already (I know the thread is long). Stao machines nozzles into the turbine housing to direct flow to fixed areas of the turbine wheel. I believe he went from a single nozzle to a 3 nozzle and then to a 5, yet has kept on the 3. This would be rather than one uniform groove leading to the turbine wheel.

[Ruffels]

Hypergear's engine building mate. Obviously doesn't want to take the rap for doing a half assed job on the engine. When it comes down to it, a lot of people will choose money over friendship.

doesnt suprise me, as he was the mechanic at JSA on bell street...

[hypergear]

few updates with the engine:

Have got the short motor professionally assembled by Reflex engineering. Had the damaged bore sleeved, with conrods and crank machined to exact clearance. So much differences in terms of professionalism and work quality compare to my "mechanic mate" whom just slapped every thing together with machined block.

I've given the short engine to AMR work shop whom rebuild my forged SR20det S14 and CA18det Sil180 back in 2008 with plenty of success in researching ATR28 series.

Also I've been question by one customer about DIY installation of the ATR43SS-1. The SS-1's is harder to install with factory water lines due to limited working space. I had mine fitted by a licensed workshop with every thing done when I picked it up so I did not have photos interms of how it was carried out.

As far as I'm aware, the out side line fits on pretty easily, there are 2 small brackets holding the engine side oil feeding line to the head, they must be removed allowing that extra bit of float for it to reach the feeding port. That water line connects to a bit of rubber pipe behind the inlet manifold.

I've promised to shown DIY work out for the SS-1 so here it is, I've purchased A clean close to stock R33 Spec 2

With all factory gear including factory heat shield and dump pipe.

I will be aiming for a good responsive 250 streetable rwkws using the SS-1 with fully factory appearace (heat shield and etc goes back on), I will post photos and instructions along as the modifications progresses. (By the way, stock turbo suck, simply out of puff at 4000rpm, Its so slow compare to my guinea pig R33)

[DVS JEZ]

Good thinking. Post up as much info/pics as u can for the DiY

[Hanaldo]

Stao, quick question since you mentioned the oil/water lines. Since I replaced my turbo, I've had a fairly slow oil and water leak. Definitely coming from the turbo lines, but I've checked the nuts and they are tight. We definitely put the washers back on and they were in good condition (in fact I seem to recall you gave me new ones for the coolant lines, so they were brand new). Before I pull it apart again, anything I should do??