Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Would it possible to plot the hypergear turbos all on the one graph?

I.e. standard v highflow v ss-1 v ss-2 v the one his working on atm?

Would give us potential customers an easier time to compare them :D

Would it possible to plot the hypergear turbos all on the one graph?

I.e. standard v highflow v ss-1 v ss-2 v the one his working on atm?

Would give us potential customers an easier time to compare them :D

Would be great, even better make an interactive excel document with all of them overlayed so you can select which ones you want and compare. Would just need all the data and wouldn't be too hard to do, would certainly make deciding which turbo much easier, currently there are too many and deciding is very difficult, mainly as it is hard to compare what is the best, eg peak power, response, power band width etc.

Edited by Rolls

I've done a Radar graph (or what ever its called) to show the trade offs between power, torque, response and drivability. I believe this is more meaningful.

Overlaid results are from:

Standard turbo (some parts are estimated ie. Boost VS RPM on 20psi)

ATR43G3 None FNT (I had a blocked cat on that run so it’s bit under powered)

ATR43SS-1

ATR43SS-1 prototype.

ATR43SS-2

Which demonstrates areas had to be sacrificed to gain in other areas. The goal would be minimum sacrifice for maximum gain.

We can see some combinations are more extreme in certain areas then others. So depending on the most importance to driver’s preferences.

Its also interesting to see the SS-2 is more of a perfectly balanced turbo in every way.

powergraphstdss1g3pro.JPG

Note. Testing platform, Dyno brand, software and ramp speed must be identical or it won't make any sense. Any one knows how to do this in excel?

This graph is very very helpful, is it distorted Stao? Or is it drawn proportionately, ie equal graphical increments eg. 20kw, 40kw, 60kw or 30Nm, 60Nm, 90Nm etc.. The SS prototype is losing torque to the SS1 and making the same power as SS1? Just more responsive and driveable. I thought it should make more than SS1 but less than SS2. That would be the perfect turbo for me. :cheers: How much rwkw is the SS1 prototype and SS1 likely to make on a R34GTT with usual supporting mods?

This graph is very very helpful, is it distorted Stao? Or is it drawn proportionately, ie equal graphical increments eg. 20kw, 40kw, 60kw or 30Nm, 60Nm, 90Nm etc.. The SS prototype is losing torque to the SS1 and making the same power as SS1? Just more responsive and driveable. I thought it should make more than SS1 but less than SS2. That would be the perfect turbo for me. :cheers: How much rwkw is the SS1 prototype and SS1 likely to make on a R34GTT with usual supporting mods?

Its actually drawn very accurately measured by dots in percentage of the actual reading from graphs earlier, you can work it backwards to get the actual reading from the dynosheet. This prototype is losing torque for better response and drivability, that still needs more work done at this stage, the final version should handle around 280rwkws mark. SS1 should be good for about 250rwkws comfortably on the R34 with supporting mods.

If the final version of the SS1 prototype makes at least 280rwkws with better than factory response and driveability as you say, then it will be KING, no doubts about that.. Go on Stao, put your magic to work, that turbo should sell..

Its actually drawn very accurately measured by dots in percentage of the actual reading from graphs earlier, you can work it backwards to get the actual reading from the dynosheet. This prototype is losing torque for better response and drivability, that still needs more work done at this stage, the final version should handle around 280rwkws mark. SS1 should be good for about 250rwkws comfortably on the R34 with supporting mods.

280rwkw seems a touch high with the SS1 Prototype. You are already running 22-23psi above 4500rpm.

The fact that the boost increases as rpm rises would be the reason why the torque does as well.

At least my atr43g3 isn't too outdated! For now...

Haven't even taken it for a drive/tune to see it at its full potential!

Is it on the RB30DET in your ride section? If so, keen to see the response and power it made!

All you need is that red one to create as much torque and power as the SS2 and you will have a golden RB turbo.... but its near impossible to gain such power and maintain response. All turbos are great. The SS2 feels great to drive, for anyone considering it, don't let the graph frighten you. Sure its not the most instant thing off the lights but it is pretty awesome the way it is.

I need moar booooost.

Just wondering if a very responsive 250rwkw rear wheel drive skyline will be able to match a 220awkw evo off the lights..?? And further down the road...:glare:

Unfortuntely not....

Have owned and driven both, I can say its not happening haha.

My Evo 4 when stock was 0-100 in under 5s and 0-200 in 13s. It had 188awkw.

When at 230ish it was scarily fast... I think one of the fastest cars I've driven in an all round sort of way.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...