Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Haha good cause ur post hurt my head. :P

I learnt something last night. I was always under the impression the duty cycle refered to the duty during the pulse width and the injector was PWMd during this time. Turns out it is just simply pulsed on and the duty cycle refers to the % on out of any given time window.

I feel stupid, assumed it was more complex than it really is.

no but if its tuned really close the the injectors max and something happens that needs some more fuel (hit r&r maybe) then you won't have enough headroom left

then you run lean and boom

Whats with teh new "Kai" labelling on some of the turbo's on the website? you can get an op6 Kai highflow or a normal one, whats special with the kai?

I understand that the injector is providing its maximum flow at 100% and that it will run lean if you continue to introduce more air. I'm asking more about the timing of fuel delivery the closer you get to 100% and it's effects

Over 80% the fuel injector is basically static anyway so you don't continue to get a linear increase in fuel delivery over 80-90%. You ultimately don't want to be running much higher than 60-70% duty cycle.

Rolls no offence but based on your comment this afternoon you don't know what you are on about when it comes to injectors. no.gif After the pulsing comment I thought you would have left it alone yes.gif But all good anyway... tongue.gif

My car has 910cc injectors and have hit 68 percent at a 11.5:1 afr. From blokes that know, I have learnt that 85 percent is the max for injector life as well as fuelling reliability. Clearly they can be run higher but don't last as long.

On topic... Hypergear thumbsup.gif

We've engineered a new turbocharger for a RB20det aimed at responsive 200~230rwkws. how ever I don't have a Rb20det powered vehicle for testing. Let me know if any one's interested of trailing.

Evaluation units are $1100 inc gst and oil line, based on the condition that a dynosheet must be provided with the vehicle running its peak efficiency after installation.

The car needs to have the following mods installed or to be installed pre-dyno tunning.

Programmable ecu

FMIC, Free flow exhaust.

injectors would be perferred.

Local members are perferred.

there are 3 units made. Will refund at purchase price if they under perform.

We've engineered a new turbocharger for a RB20det aimed at responsive 200~230rwkws. how ever I don't have a Rb20det powered vehicle for testing. Let me know if any one's interested of trailing.

Evaluation units are $1100 inc gst and oil line, based on the condition that a dynosheet must be provided with the vehicle running its peak efficiency after installation.

The car needs to have the following mods installed or to be installed pre-dyno tunning.

Programmable ecu

FMIC, Free flow exhaust.

injectors would be perferred.

Local members are perferred.

there are 3 units made. Will refund at purchase price if they under perform.

does Kai mean PU?

Rolls no offence but based on your comment this afternoon you don't know what you are on about when it comes to injectors. no.gif After the pulsing comment I thought you would have left it alone yes.gif But all good anyway... tongue.gif

It is true though. I just confused the time period duty cycle was talking to, the behaviour of the injector is the same. After 85% ish it doesn't get time to close properly and is essentially completely open.

does Kai mean PU?

No. Kai runs a much larger turbine wheel they makes very close power as the PU high flows how ever it feels pretty laggy on road. Unless customers really want to use factory turbine housing then we would recommend PU high flow option better.

Pu runs our own .82 turbine housing with factory compressor housing. Its like a small trimed (56T) ATR43G3 with factory comp housing. Standard ATR43G3 runs 58T comp wheel with a .70 comp housing.

i think this info should be on your website

maybe a turbo selection guide would be useful too

i've been trying to help out another stagea owner down here with what to get (he has already emailed you)

i'm probably going to go down the same path as him too

Tao is it normal to hear like the front compressor wheel spinning? I never noticed it but now I can hear it, sounds exactly like my old high flow. Very feint but if you listen for it you can hear it...

Tao is it normal to hear like the front compressor wheel spinning? I never noticed it but now I can hear it, sounds exactly like my old high flow. Very feint but if you listen for it you can hear it...

Should make a tinny sound which is from air travelling through the pipe and inlet of the turbo. pretty normal. How ever, your compressor wheel had some stone chips from object sucked in I probabaly want to check it out and make sure its still within balance range.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...