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Also something else to note is that the front pipe did not come near the rubber air con drain pipe however when it is fitted to the new turbo it now touches the drain, this is a very clear indication that the dump sits back further compared to stock.

Stao, Is there a problem with manufacturing the plate so its the same fitment as stock? ie is there a reason for it being different or just an oversight?

Its sits about 15mms father back as in total length wise, We've fitted few it won't bend any studs or any thing, plus once the C holder is secured, it will take most of the loads. So I wouldn't worry about bending studs and cracking manifolds and etc from it. So far none of the once we've fitted had issues, you can fit flex pipe if you want to, but not really necessary.

All the turbine housings are made ona Jig so every single one are exactly the same.

Im not worried that the new turbo will cause the studs to bend etc, I have experienced many broken studs and manifolds with the stock turbo so its an existing issue. I'll take difficult fitment as a chance to improve the reliability of the exhaust and make it fit easier.

Your fitment method may work but forcing it on will just put extra stress on the studs and manifold which does not make sense when there is already a problem with the studs snapping.

Guys who track/drift their sr20 powered cars have issues with the studs snapping due to the exhaust pulling on the turbo and I have even seen one workshop who sell beefy brackets to hold it in place properly so its not an unknown issue. The small stock bracket is not strong enough to hold a big exhaust in place in corners.

Is there a reason the turbo has to sit 15mm back from stock position? Looks like you could just make the welded on plate thinner?

Needs to be around 15mm as this is a lot larger turbine housing then stock, plus it needs to have the opening clearance for the internal gate, so it actually needed that bit of extra clearance.

Siksll, just give up, stao won't admit it doesn't fit properly. I argued with him about it too, can you let me know if your wastegate gets stuck open too? I had the exact same problem, I actually shortened my exhaust to to fit as I couldn't move It back due to the tow bar.

So many people... So many successful fit ups... Two idiots who think they know better.

Nothing personal guys, just stating the facts. These turbos fit up, no nonsense bolt on rear housing. 15mm or no 15mm.

If you think about it, AND AS AN EXAMPLE ONLY, it could be that you reversed over a park bay stopper art woolies and bent your hangers. Something that little could be what sets you appart from the dozens of other cars running around with hypergear turbos. Or you could just have a shit quality dump, cat, catback - whatever. The accumulation of parts is holding you back (in lilcrash case the towbar) not the turbo.

Why not take the entire exhaust off the car and start at the turbo?

Once again, where are the successful fit ups of SS1-PUs? Feedback here is mostly for hiflows not the PU with a custom rear housing. There isnt a single customer supplied final dyno result for this exact turbo to this date so where is the feedback you talk about?

My mechanic did start at the turbo since my whole exhaust was off anyway however if you read Stao's comments this goes against his instructions about forcing it on with the exhaust fully attached.

My car is at a performance workshop that fits this type of stuff day in day out and I myself have fitted stock and HKS turbos several times at home so this is not new to me. I know my exhaust is not bent and my cat fits perfect since i have had it on and off a couple of times and also had two stock turbos on an off my car which both fit perfect.

You are in Sydney so send me an PM and lets go together and if you honestly think its a good fit then you can call me and my mechanic idiots in person, im dead serious, come have a look and no hard feelings either way.

So many people... So many successful fit ups... Two idiots who think they know better.

Nothing personal guys, just stating the facts. These turbos fit up, no nonsense bolt on rear housing. 15mm or no 15mm.

If you think about it, AND AS AN EXAMPLE ONLY, it could be that you reversed over a park bay stopper art woolies and bent your hangers. Something that little could be what sets you appart from the dozens of other cars running around with hypergear turbos. Or you could just have a shit quality dump, cat, catback - whatever. The accumulation of parts is holding you back (in lilcrash case the towbar) not the turbo.

Why not take the entire exhaust off the car and start at the turbo?

My car's also fitted with the same turbo, the rear housing pushed back around half a inch, mine's on a JJR's 3inch mild steel bell mouth, it still had plenty of clearance behind it, it could have some thing to do with shape of your dump pipe. I've replaced the cat in it 2 weeks ago, like what stao said once the bracket is removed and exhaust got lot of movement, it hasn't been a problem on my car.

My actuator runs 15psi consistantly with no boost controller, never jamed. Lilcrash I've been following abit of your thread, didn't you install the actuator your self? Its got all those problems yet to be fixed, just as if I'm blaming the turbo because my car mis-fired cos I can run more boost.

Once again, where are the successful fit ups of SS1-PUs? Feedback here is mostly for hiflows not the PU with a custom rear housing. There isnt a single customer supplied final dyno result for this exact turbo to this date so where is the feedback you talk about?

I'm not sure which thread you have been reading, but the majority of feedback certainly isn't about hiflow turbos using the stock housing. LOADS of people here are using ATR43 turbos, and as Stao said ALL of them are fitted with a spacer plate.

I have installed two of these turbos on my car now, and yes the exhaust needs to be moved a little bit. So rotate the hanger mount to suit. It took me less than a minute to get my exhaust fitting perfectly again after each install, no additional stress on the manifold or studs or any of that.

You are in Sydney so send me an PM and lets go together and if you honestly think its a good fit then you can call me and my mechanic idiots in person, im dead serious, come have a look and no hard feelings either way.

Pay me and I will, but calling you an idiot in person incurs a surcharge. Calling the mechanic an idiot I can do for free though. :P

As stated by Stao and the others, its the same jig he uses mate... And we are talking about 1.5cm (15mm).

Honestly if your car was at home I'd come lend a hand, no question about it. Being at a mechanic I honestly don't think its a good idea... CBF punching on with a mechanic because he just got told by a noob.

Just PM me your location and if it is downright convenient enough I will call it a maybe.. I dont have a license so I cant just drive over.

I'm not sure which thread you have been reading, but the majority of feedback certainly isn't about hiflow turbos using the stock housing. LOADS of people here are using ATR43 turbos, and as Stao said ALL of them are fitted with a spacer plate.

I have installed two of these turbos on my car now, and yes the exhaust needs to be moved a little bit. So rotate the hanger mount to suit. It took me less than a minute to get my exhaust fitting perfectly again after each install, no additional stress on the manifold or studs or any of that.

Hey mate, the spacer plate that most people are using is one that fits between the turbo and manifold so the larger compressor housing doesnt foul. The PU unit I am using is a full custom rear housing, it does not use a spacer place so its a different story.

We've fitted few of those to customer's cars, most of them on side. the photos taken from the DIY page was done by my mechanic and I normally install it differently on my own cars as that way I don't have to get under the car. And when I say force it in, the restraint is just the bit of tension from the rubber hangers, which the C bracket takes car of that once secured, there really isn't any thing restraining on the front part of the pipe which passes onto the manifold or the studs.

I've taken few photos of the ss1pu's rear housing next to a stock housing. As you can see its only marginal taller, there are enough clearance for that on the exhaust side:

1.JPG

2.JPG

I also found many workshops exaggerate the work they are doing so their customers are happy to pay more. If you are doing it your self it’s not a big deal.

My car's also fitted with the same turbo, the rear housing pushed back around half a inch, mine's on a JJR's 3inch mild steel bell mouth, it still had plenty of clearance behind it, it could have some thing to do with shape of your dump pipe. I've replaced the cat in it 2 weeks ago, like what stao said once the bracket is removed and exhaust got lot of movement, it hasn't been a problem on my car.

My actuator runs 15psi consistantly with no boost controller, never jamed. Lilcrash I've been following abit of your thread, didn't you install the actuator your self? Its got all those problems yet to be fixed, just as if I'm blaming the turbo because my car mis-fired cos I can run more boost.

Thanks for the feedback Pete - have you got the car fully tuned yet?

  • Like 1

Hey mate, the spacer plate that most people are using is one that fits between the turbo and manifold so the larger compressor housing doesnt foul. The PU unit I am using is a full custom rear housing, it does not use a spacer place so its a different story.

All the turbos have the plate welded onto the rear housing mate, Stao explained they need that space for the wastegate flapper etc. Even my new turbo which is externally gated has that plate:

atr43g3exgate5.JPG

If I can get this turbo to bolt on with minimal effort, I'm sure your turbo won't be a very different story.

How is your rear housing completely custom, what has been built differently to the standard SS1-PU??

All the turbos have the plate welded onto the rear housing mate, Stao explained they need that space for the wastegate flapper etc. Even my new turbo which is externally gated has that plate:

If I can get this turbo to bolt on with minimal effort, I'm sure your turbo won't be a very different story.

How is your rear housing completely custom, what has been built differently to the standard SS1-PU??

When I say full custom I mean its not a hi flowed 21U or OP6 housing, it is a aftermarket housing which is then customised by Hypergear.

I dont think that plate is welded to models using the standard 21U/OP6 housing which is used with most of the ATR43 models.

Stao is this correct or is that plate welded to every ATR43?

When I say full custom I mean its not a hi flowed 21U or OP6 housing, it is a aftermarket housing which is then customised by Hypergear.

I dont think that plate is welded to models using the standard 21U/OP6 housing which is used with most of the ATR43 models.

Stao is this correct or is that plate welded to every ATR43?

I believe you have misread somewhere.The ATR43's all use the Hypergear housings, they are Hypergear's production turbos. Highflows are a different service, they are not part of the same range.

Or so I understood it, correct me if I am wrong Stao.

Edited by Hanaldo

My car's also fitted with the same turbo, the rear housing pushed back around half a inch, mine's on a JJR's 3inch mild steel bell mouth, it still had plenty of clearance behind it, it could have some thing to do with shape of your dump pipe. I've replaced the cat in it 2 weeks ago, like what stao said once the bracket is removed and exhaust got lot of movement, it hasn't been a problem on my car.

My actuator runs 15psi consistantly with no boost controller, never jamed. Lilcrash I've been following abit of your thread, didn't you install the actuator your self? Its got all those problems yet to be fixed, just as if I'm blaming the turbo because my car mis-fired cos I can run more boost.

I think you mis understood, when off the car my wastegate flap jams on the housing. Just curious if it is the same on other turbos. I have talked to stao about it and it doesn't appear to be an issue but yeah just a curiosity thing. Also my turbo measures 23mm longer then the stock turbo.

The ss1.5 i fitted is a really good turbo yada yada BUT

The customer came back complaining about a smoke from under the bonnet and now his aircon leaks water onto the floor.

The dump pipe has melted the aircon drain pipe as

Lilcrash has stated. So ease up on him guys

Thats the rubber pipe part that sticks out you are referring to I believe. That depending on the angle and length of pre-made aftermarket dump pipe, there were few which fouled from the ones we've installed, basically secure it to the chassis with a zip tie.

When comes to a larger turbine housing then it has to be bigger in overall physical size. So in some cases minior adjustments needs to be made.

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