Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had one problem with mine. Was told by stao the water feeds on the turbo were 14x1.5 so wasted nearly $50 on speed flow fittings

Rest was fine. Was a atrg3 .82

So should everyone be checking the clearance between the dump and aircon pipe? So if there is not atleast say, 30mm clearance (5 bolt exhaust flange has an extra 25mm over stock now) , then you need a different dump pipe. Is this correct?

Mine had a little bit of clearance (~20mm) which i didn't notice. Ended up frying the tube lol.

Harey - there is nothing wrong with my install, unless you want to blame me for a ring not holding compression. I will have an engine in and dynod before Christmas if I can.

Except for dodgy boost signal and you running 25psi when it was tuned to less than 20psi?? The better the turbo the worse damage you will do from running way above tuned boost levels!

In no way do I doubt other people results, I'm just disappointed at the recommendations(not just about hypergear)I have received considering how things have gone, honestly I think I received a faulty actuator, and I still don't feel that any damage was done by myself, it looks more like the engine was never run in in Japan.

No just considering there is no damage just low compression, either the ring had never bed in or it just wore out. And considering the rest are fine it makes more sense that it didn't be in.

Good to know I'm not the only one. The way my install went I think having a known turbo (garret/hks) is worth the extra few dollars, fair enough I am yet to see if the hypergear can actually make any power but before Christmas I will have all the information/dyno sheets to know if stao will be receiving my turbo back.

cool, so I guess you think everyone that rushed out and bought GT30s back when the write up hit SAU returned their the turbo if they didn't get 300kw?

That was the aim of that turbo on the RB25, yet if you look at real world results there is a 250kw result for every 300kw result with seemingly the same effort applied. In your eyes I guess they should all get refunds!

I should blame a supplier for my blown SR, it was running tuned for 7 years then the day I put on their catback it blew! Those assholes sold me a faulty pipe. Sound funny? Actually its exactly what happened to you. I put something on my car and thrashed it while it wasn't tuned for it. Boost spiked, it went way harder, god knows what else, and cost me a healthy motor. My faux pas as I didn't think a simple catback would throw the tune out that much. On my life one lap around the block, pop.

Its no hero story, just consider it though. Its entirely relevant to your case, ive read all your posts, including those when ur motor was untuned in the stages area.

I didn't mean for a refund, I would just like him to have a look and see what's going on.

Yes I drove my car around with a 3500rpm red line for a few weeks, I didnt think it was that big an issue, clearly Nissan motors aren't as strong as the Toyota engines I'm use to owning.

you couldn't source a proper boost feed for the actuator..but you are qualified to say there is no damage? 2 days ago you couldn't get the head off, a few weeks ago you thrashed a motor tuned for 14psi when you were running 25psi......but it is Nissan's fault?

why does anyone help this idiot?

1. Nothing wrong with where I had the boost feed, people had suggested getting a boost feed from the manifold :/. That is stupid.

2. Sorry for not seeing an invisible bolt.

3. Tuned for 22psi dropping to 14, so the 3/4 psi spike isn't a big issue in my point of view. I wasn't holding it wot to redline, was just creeping it to see if boost was holding.

4. I drove an untuned 35year old turbo celica with a 7psi boost increase for 4 years and never had a single problem.

Reading your steage section posts you've mentioned that you were chasing a RS4 GTR Stega with new turbo fitted and "just" got beaten. I'm suspecting you've blew your motor long before it got on the dyno, and the dyno tune plus all the threasing after just hurt it more.

Reading your steage section posts you've mentioned that you were chasing a RS4 GTR Stega with new turbo fitted and "just" got beaten. I'm suspecting you've blew your motor long before it got on the dyno, and the dyno tune plus all the threasing after just hurt it more.

Thats the thing about forums... Cant delete your old posts

1. Nothing wrong with where I had the boost feed, people had suggested getting a boost feed from the manifold :/. That is stupid.

2. Sorry for not seeing an invisible bolt.

3. Tuned for 22psi dropping to 14, so the 3/4 psi spike isn't a big issue in my point of view. I wasn't holding it wot to redline, was just creeping it to see if boost was holding.

4. I drove an untuned 35year old turbo celica with a 7psi boost increase for 4 years and never had a single problem.

This post sums up exactly how little you know about cars and how far you should stay away from them.

Well no one can fix up yesterday. He's main objective is getting his engine back together soon as possible. Below is what I've done building my test rig, follow that you should have a very solid engine with out spending heaps of cash:

I've rang around for the best prices on all parts I got:

1. CP pistons 0.5mm over sized from CJmotors

2. ACL bearings, ARP head studs, and full gasket set from MD spares.

I've paid about $1500.

Find a good engine re-bore service locally, get them to bath your engine block, re-bore your cycs refer to piston specifications, fit pistons and crank together as a short engine.

I've paid $650

If you are technically minded from there you can assemble it your self (mmmm not good idea). Or take it to a trust worthy workshop to have it assembled and dropped in.

I've paid $1000

So all up my rebuild cost just under $3200 and its been holding together well since. If you wish going slightly bigger in turbo I can help you getting that done free.

^ Hypergear always keeping it cool and willing to help you out.

You can't blame hypergear, you can't blame Nissan. You can't blame anyone. Your luck seems low. That option up there sounds pretty good. It really isn't hard to bolt the head back on and reassemble everything. Torque settings, set the cams, set the pistons, slap on the head, torque it up, manifolds, gaskets, studs, nuts, wiring, injectors, plenum, spark plugs, coils, turbo and your just about there!

Then again alot of guys here are blaming you for running 25psi. 25 psi will cause detonation but it isn't likely that one or two runs on this will KILL the motor.

Like I said in many other posts, if that cylinder bore is in good shape, replace that damn piston with a stockie and put it back together.

If there is no damage from detonation, pre ignition or lean out then chances are the 25 psi wasnt the issue for the motor. But without inspecting the engine i cant say for sure.

I can tell everyone is getting annoyed with littlecrash, but please don't start name calling,

Lilcrash have u started the rebuild process for ur motor yet.

No worth all the effort just to replace one faulty piston sarge, he might as well whack in a fresh set of forgies.

Please dont ever rebuild a stock motor with another 2nd hand piston.

Cheaper option would be to buy a second hand motor in known condition. You know it won't fall apart from poor workman ship like some rebuilds will, they have a proven track record and will hold 250-300 for many years if tuned correctly and never see detonation and are kept cool.

Honestly I would do that, you can get a s1/2 rb25 for $1000 if you look around, I personally sold a forged rb25 short motor for $1k with only 7000kms on it. Or you could fork out for a neo for around $2k which has some advantages, better head, better rods, newer with less kms.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...