Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

some turbo updates:

This is the newer version of the SS2 high flow. I've turned the compressor wheel into the 11 blade design. Probably because the tight packed blades is more effective in trapping air in, it required a lot less wastegate duty cycle (some thing like half) to hold 22psi of boost. So on a internally gated setup it should make a difference in terms of holding steady boost at upper rev range.

front.jpg

  • Like 1

Semi slicks are rubbish for the drag strip, the widewall is much too hard. Good street tyres with lowered pressure will perform way better than semi's on the drag strip from my experience.

Semi slicks are rubbish for the drag strip, the widewall is much too hard. Good street tyres with lowered pressure will perform way better than semi's on the drag strip from my experience.

Thanks for posting this, I was considering getting semi's for my next trip back to the track & for all round since I don't do many kms. I would've thought they were better too.

Now I guess I'll save up for some 16/17 inch rims and get MT ET streets or something.

No. I don't think he was saying that at all. What he was saying is that semi slicks, in the narrow sense of meaning that we take to be semi-slicks as used on the circuit or street, are crap for drag. MT ETs would not be called a semi slick. They'd be rightly called a drag radial.

Of course he wasn't actually even talking about real semi-slicks, but instead talking about UHP tyres. But seeing as you didn't read properly, you could be excused for thinking that.

Just a quick off topic question, didn't think it was worth starting a new thread for.

I'm going to degree my cams next week sometime just to cross cam timing off the list once and for all, but just want to check if my car will still be driveable on the current tune after any changes? I know MAP sensors are sensitive to changes in the efficiency of the motor, will adjusting cam timing make it unhappy or should it be ok?

some turbo updates:

This is the newer version of the SS2 high flow. I've turned the compressor wheel into the 11 blade design. Probably because the tight packed blades is more effective in trapping air in, it required a lot less wastegate duty cycle (some thing like half) to hold 22psi of boost. So on a internally gated setup it should make a difference in terms of holding steady boost at upper rev range.

Have you had it on the dyno yet? Will be interesting to see the results as always :)

it depends how far off they are. if its only a small move it should be fine.. Anything more than 5 degrees and I would be very wary.

I moved my exhaust cam 8 degrees once (accident) and the car ran SUPER lean, had no power what so ever.

I am not expecting it to be out my much if at all, maybe 2 degrees. But gonna do it anyway to cross it off the list. I've got the wideband hooked up so I can keep an eye on mixtures, and if it is out at all then I certainly won't be boosting anywhere until I get a tune. I just wanted to make sure I can drive it to the tuners once it's all setup.

Just a quick off topic question, didn't think it was worth starting a new thread for.

I'm going to degree my cams next week sometime just to cross cam timing off the list once and for all, but just want to check if my car will still be driveable on the current tune after any changes? I know MAP sensors are sensitive to changes in the efficiency of the motor, will adjusting cam timing make it unhappy or should it be ok?

i've recently installed cam gears, advanced intake and retarded exhaust after i found the best settings for response so now turbo hits full boost 500rpms sooner.

that said car barely holds idle and it feels like its leaning out as i'm getting more air sooner so i'd say a tune is needed

Yes no doubt it needs a tune to boost. I'm just talking general driveability, like when I installed the cams the car would be stall on decel because the change in efficiency upset the map based tune.

I just want to know whether my steering and brakes are likely to fail when approaching an intersection again, cos they is something I'd rather avoid repeating :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes the gear for the R33/34 is different, it is red and has a different number of teeth. My part didn't come with that gear though, so I don't know how many teeth are on the red one. You'd have to reuse the 260RS/R33 gear, as long as it's not destroyed.   Haha, as unfortunate as that might be it was working fine for about the first 1500km I've had the car for now.
    • Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
×
×
  • Create New...