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Will post some videos after this weekend. Trying to make a proper bracket at moment for my setup.

Internal gate VNT is do able, probably becomes very messy with two actuators.

love you work stao, can't wait for the G4 results and the VNT T04Z /35 or T04Z-P trim after that..lol

if you run external gate on stock mani/or rof exhaust housing, will there be room for the vnt actuator/setup with stock manifold maybe?

cheer

darren

Ok I see if there are better metal then current. Current setup is pretty good. I put in many thoughts of how it could fail and methods in avoiding problems. Every thing moved freely even at 22psi. I think it should last pretty well.

Lets go into a bit of details from today's results. The bracket I made for the actuator earlier don't fit on to the manifold

For the next run I will use a boost controller to control the VNT movement, the idea is having it pooling the turbo up to 20psi and disengages, The motion of the actuator will be much more steadier once fixed into a proper bracket.

On road it initially has this stock turbo pull and goes harder and harder as engine revs out. Its brilliant to drive. Will upload more results and photos as further progresses made.

Looks very promising....

Will you be able to do this with smaller turbo frames?

TBH to give the best chance at mounting flexability, I'd look at a remote (cable) actuated option.

At least that's what I would do if I fitted one to my car :-)

Yes it is possible to integrate the same mechanism into smaller turbine housing. Can use a electrical module to control the VNT movement like what the Porche turbochargers has.

Further more, there is possibilities in the development of multi layers VNT system. So the outer layer activates prior the inner layer.

At constant velocity: Gas velocity increases going through layers of nozzles and slows down as all the nozzles activates.

On a engine with variable discharging gas velocity. We can maintain consistent gas velocity and pressure at a single level to the turbine wheel. Perhaps sitting at 10psi even on 1000rpms idle, of course its bit of nonsense, I can imagine the compressor surges horribly and destroying it self. But that is the idea.

The point of application would've been very large turbochargers, or tinny engine with largerr turbochargers. Ie Turn some thing of a GT65 capable of 3000HP to be street drivable, and can still pump 3000HP on WOT. Obvious the response of the turbocharger is also limited by the size of the compressor and so forth. We should be able to explore our possibilities as the project moves along.

...a;; sounds pretty good to meee :-)

I was thinking more along the lines of a pneumatic actuator like you already use with a cable in place of the current rod and linkage.

Cheers

J.

Got my final tune on my 34 GTT with the Hi flow 34 Turbo PU with .63 rear. with the usual mods like exhaust and cooler plus injectors through shit auto, did 345hp @17 psi.
Hopefully when I go manual and better diff ratio 4.08 - 4.3 it will make it a bit more fun on the street as it's quite laggy still (4500rpm full boost).
But over all I'm stoked :)

Got my final tune on my 34 GTT with the Hi flow 34 Turbo PU with .63 rear. with the usual mods like exhaust and cooler plus injectors through shit auto, did 345hp @17 psi.

Hopefully when I go manual and better diff ratio 4.08 - 4.3 it will make it a bit more fun on the street as it's quite laggy still (4500rpm full boost).

But over all I'm stoked :)

The power is about right which is good, yet I have seen what a PU highflow goes like in the flesh and it should not be laggy. Especially through an auto.

What ECU are you running? Are you sure the VCT is working right? And have you checked the preload on your actuator plus done a leak test of your cooler plumbing?

Pretty good result for auto.

Auto's bit funny tho. They don't seems to have a fixed response curves. I think they are actually laggier then a manual. Still good idea to check actuator preload, (high preload does make better response). and quick look to see if VCT is working 100%.

To hold 20psi, I loaded about 15mms.

preload.JPG

GTScott

How do you check the preload?

Always wanted to check mine as i think it may be my problem with boost drop.

As above mate :)

You simply unclip the actuator rod (don't do this when you have been driving, it will BURN) and see what kind of free distance there is between the hole on the arm and the post it is meant to slide over. Typically you are meant to have half a circle of pre-load, yet with some of the highflow configurations the turbine housing is seeing a lot more flow than the IWG was probably made to see, so giving extra pre-load can often help hold boost flat.

For myself my SS1PU creeps from 15-18psi on my 10 pound actuator. I will be running without boost control and adding pre-load until it holds 1 boost setting completely flat. Then will add the boost controller back on and increase until desired pressure is reached.

So best bet would be to bypass the boost controller all together, and test with just spring pressure and adjust as necessary?
More preload = larger gap i assume?

Downsides to adding more preload? ie what happens if i preload to much?

So best bet would be to bypass the boost controller all together, and test with just spring pressure and adjust as necessary?

More preload = larger gap i assume?

Downsides to adding more preload? ie what happens if i preload to much?

If you over pre-load you will get boost spike and then taper. Try to have it hold one consistent boost pressure off the spring only.

Here's the dyno sheet.

That actually looks OK. its making 150kw @ 4000 rpm which isnt THAT bad for a 200k+ auto. Have a fiddle with preload and just check VCT as said.

Still work in progress and there are few minor issues that I have to solve. One of them would been the strength of mechanism required for activation, after making a proper bracket I found a simple actuator doesn't have the strength to do this unless running heaps of boost. On an average skyline with 15~18psi of boost it can never activate.

It would've been the reason that most of modern VNT turbochargers has a electric lock motor mechanism for activation. or perhaps alter the direct of the nozzle ring movement to opposite direction which changes the physical notion of having the actuator, instead of relying on the strength of push, it can now rely on the strength of pull.

I'm looking into the electric locking motor at moment, how ever preferred to have the turbocharger running without it. There are always ways of engineering that archives the same out come without the complication, I've made few changes to existing prototype, a newer and simpler version is on the way.

... you need the right spring :yes: or snap mechanism.

something that will hold tension untill 'triggered' then be able to operate smoothly.

ooo I love a mechanical problem to solve!

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