Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What's the deal with people taking blurry cropped photos!?!

Was there only one shot left on the film?

The conspiracy theorist in me says that if the photo was clear it would show 12.8 !

Either way 120mph is a great result especially for that turbo.

Not sure what it might be in this case. Same customer posted up a bluer photo of his quarter result on facebook. I will update an more accurate result once I get a responds.

The new wheel combination seems to be working nicely inside 1JZGTE VVTi CT15B housings as well.

Latest result:

Toyota Soarer

1JZGTE VVTi Manual

Car has 650 cc injectors

PFC ECU

Front mount cooler

3 inches turbo back exhaust

Aftermarket exhaust manifold

3 inches metal induction pipe with pod filter.

Most power made was 312rwkws @ 23psi, Left on 293rwkws @ 20psi. Car makes 200rwkws by 4000RPMs with excellent on road driving ability.

soarerenginebay.jpg

1jzgtehighflow.jpg

Got my new apexi intake today measured 3.5inches

post-79144-13995375576569_thumb.jpg

That and a new walbro 450lph pump to replace my old dw300 will hopefully see my ss1.5 sr20 at 280kw

As we tested fuel pressure and it was dropping 6-10 psi up top on the dyno as I'm running a extra bar of fuel pressure over std and my fuel pump can't keep up

Afr were going from 12 to 12.5 as fuel pressure dropped so may gain 5-10kw if we can keep afr constant and Tao tested the 2.5inch intake vs 3inch was 13kw

Will get it retuned in a few months after I buy a new fuel pump

I'm on nismo 740cc side feed injectors and trying to squeeze the most out of then as I'm on e85

43psi base + 14.7psi ontop of base and 25psi boost that's 83psi fuel pressure so flow from the dw300 will drop drastically

Yeah is still slighty down on power to Tao but new intake and pump should put it closer to Tao results

Also most dynos vary abit but a true indication of the power will be down the quarter mile which I'll be testing soon

So far at 250kw trapped 120mph

260kw trapped 122mph

I'm going to test it as is now and after I put on the new intake and pump

Some results sent in from B-Rice:

This is standard 21U high flow on E85 managing 292rwkws on E85 fuel and factory actuator:

Clutch is slipping little up top, and I believe an high pressure actuator should be able to hold boost straight with a gain of another 30kws.

boost.jpg

A result sent in from an SS1PU customer. This is the latest version also that has a different compressor that is engineered to hold boost better and more top end.

It is running on E85 maxing out fuel pump. Peek of 301rwkws @ 17psi. With plenty of mid range.

From customer's feed back letter:

R34 GTT (Stock Motor)

Supporting Mods
Blitz FMIC Return Flow
1000cc Injectors
Standard Airbox (Panel Filter)
3inch Bellmouth Full Exhaust
Z32 AFM
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
SS1PU (latest model)
Scotty's Alloy Intake
CALTEX E-Flex
301.8 Rwkw (18psi peak, drops off to 17psi holds well)

atr43ss1pu.jpg

I did a rough overlay of these results with B-rice's

It looks to me like the highflow r34 turbo is one of the top performers in the 300rwkw E85 range

Unless im a total twat and have farked this up haha

vaNxuKc.jpg

Actually, I think it was a R33 21U high flowed turbo. The updated high flow probably works out to be similar to a SS1PU.

There are two profiles for the OP6, we can still use the old configuration which keeps it responsive and maxing out towards 260rwkws while the later configurations would be maxing towards 300rwkws with more lag.

I'm working on a new version of high flow for Rb20det motors. The expected out come will be very similar to a 2530. Will update photos as its been completed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...