Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It looks either wastegate is unsealed or VCT is not activated.

Ask Sean to change the VCT settings through the ECU and see it response to power curve. 2ndly the actuator has to be removed for turbo installation and in many cases the pre-load was let by the operating mechanic (many believed they shouldn't be tensioned) or not been corrected adjusted after installation.

Drop the cat, have a play with the EBC, that dip and claiming back up shape looks strange. To get around the 280rwkws mark it needs to hold around 20psi up top.

Further more, pretty much all results came out of the test car are on aftermarket manifolds. I will see Trent next week to trail a larger turbine housing for the SS2, which should compensate a little working with stock exhaust manifold.

It looks either wastegate is unsealed or VCT is not activated.

Ask Sean to change the VCT settings through the ECU and see it response to power curve. 2ndly the actuator has to be removed for turbo installation and in many cases the pre-load was let by the operating mechanic (many believed they shouldn't be tensioned) or not been corrected adjusted after installation.

I installed turbo to engine, then engine into car. Actuator hasn't been adjusted. But i will check it Saturday morning And test Vct just to be sure.

Might be able to log boost against Rpm then drop Cat and compare and see if it gains much response

Edited by t_revz

Thats honestly a pretty good graph man.. I can imagine you would want boost in as early as possible, and to hit the mark for power, but that is all in by 4k already.

It definitely has the marks of a fast car, and I do believe the turbo is performing based on the shape of the curve. For a turbo thats capable of more power, to me it looks like its not running enough boost, or theres a flow restriction of some sort (other than the turbo). As its only a minor hold back on boost and your missing 10-20% power.

Theres definitely more in it once you work out whats holding it back.

Hi all

I bought on of hypergears highflows around 6 months ago with the intention to put it on my track car, but as life likes to play its little games, the track car was stripped and sold.

But I kept a few select bits to make myself a budget, reliable and responsive daily driven drifter

A r33 4 door, so sticking to the budget I fitted a front mount cooler, a intank fuel pump, the highflow I had (r33 21U rear, 14psi actuator) and a microtech lt16 I had.

Then took it in for a tune, stock injectors(remember budget build) and all

P9200055_zps10e337e0.jpg

So on a safe tune, to handle me thrashing it at the track :P

The injectors had a little left in them at 300hp but 282rwhp (208kw) was the final tune

For the very minimal cash outlay, I'm very very happy with the result

Interesting that they didn't use any correction method, I've never had a run on Allstar's dyno without SAE being used.

Make much difference?

I see mine says 2000+4000 while simonr32's says 2000+3000. Googled last night but didn't find an answer. I know nothing about correction methods so have some studying to do

Thats honestly a pretty good graph man.. I can imagine you would want boost in as early as possible, and to hit the mark for power, but that is all in by 4k already.

It definitely has the marks of a fast car, and I do believe the turbo is performing based on the shape of the curve. For a turbo thats capable of more power, to me it looks like its not running enough boost, or theres a flow restriction of some sort (other than the turbo). As its only a minor hold back on boost and your missing 10-20% power.

Theres definitely more in it once you work out whats holding it back.

Yeah I'm not too concerned. But would like to get the most out of it after spendibg so much time and money on it. Regardless I want to change exhaust from behind the dump, check all obvious things then wind more into it. I'm confident with more boost the power curve should be close to everyone else.

But yeah it feels fast as for me after only driving a ford ranger and grand vitara for the last 3 yrs ;)

Hi all

I bought on of hypergears highflows around 6 months ago with the intention to put it on my track car, but as life likes to play its little games, the track car was stripped and sold.

But I kept a few select bits to make myself a budget, reliable and responsive daily driven drifter

A r33 4 door, so sticking to the budget I fitted a front mount cooler, a intank fuel pump, the highflow I had (r33 21U rear, 14psi actuator) and a microtech lt16 I had.

Then took it in for a tune, stock injectors(remember budget build) and all

So on a safe tune, to handle me thrashing it at the track :P

The injectors had a little left in them at 300hp but 282rwhp (208kw) was the final tune

For the very minimal cash outlay, I'm very very happy with the result

Great result for a very budget build! That turbo would be good for 18psi at least, so I can see it would really come alive with some injectors and more boost.

Good work, I would be happy with the result of a nice reliable ultimately budget build like that.

Great result for a very budget build! That turbo would be good for 18psi at least, so I can see it would really come alive with some injectors and more boost.

Good work, I would be happy with the result of a nice reliable ultimately budget build like that.

Thanks mate, I did consider going the injector path but for the extra outlay I might just stick with this setup, it seems to drive so well and still has the balls to fry tyres rolling onto boost in lower gears.

Either way I am in QR matsuri in 2 weeks so will see how good it goes :)

Thanks mate, I did consider going the injector path but for the extra outlay I might just stick with this setup, it seems to drive so well and still has the balls to fry tyres rolling onto boost in lower gears.

Either way I am in QR matsuri in 2 weeks so will see how good it goes :)

a cheap option for injectors are S15 450cc injectors, they flow decent amount and can be had for next to nothing on silvia forums :woot:

just read you have a GT-t, fail on my side lol

Edited by johnnilicte

a cheap option for injectors are S15 450cc injectors, they flow decent amount and can be had for next to nothing on silvia forums :woot:

just read you have a GT-t, fail on my side lol

Not a fail on your side, fail by me, I should update that, I've had 4 different cars since the r34 4 door

This is a series 1 r33 4 door :D

haha well there you go!

S15 450s will get you up to 230kw man, easily.

even more, I was making 246 kW on my old shitbox with the duty cycle at around 70ish %

I dont want to set the bar too high, it is a HF and is running a microguess. The microguess is the biggest holdup, to keep the tune safe I say discount about 20 from what it can do as a maximum.

Make much difference?

I see mine says 2000+4000 while simonr32's says 2000+3000. Googled last night but didn't find an answer. I know nothing about correction methods so have some studying to do

I wouldn't have a clue myself, but from memory Simon said it adds 7% to the total power. As does their dyno apparently. So together my power figure is apparently 14% out. I think that's what it worked out to, the question was whether my 393rwhp figure on Allstar's dyno was accurate compared to my 318rwhp on Autoworx Dyno Dynamics a day later.

haha well there you go!

S15 450s will get you up to 230kw man, easily.

Still a lot of effort for and extra 20 odd kw lol, but I will keep my eye out for some cheapies as I'm always on nissansilvia.com

But I have my basic engine setup I wanted :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey everyone, I recently bought myself a 2001 Nissan Stegea M35, and I've had a few issues that I had to fix, my car would start intermittently and I had a bad rocker cover leak, after a couple days of looking I finally found a part number that interchanges with the OEM starter as the OEM starters at $1300 and I can't afford that, this starter was only $270 and I replaced the start and still had the same issues, I posted a video asking for help online and it went very well, some guy said it was probably a bad ignition switch so I took my dash apart and turns out my ignition switch was half screwed in and was loose, once it was tightened it fired right up, I found a local place called "Boost factory" and they sold me a part of OEM Nissan rocker covers, they were $600 which was a shocker but I couldn't find them anywhere else, so I installed them and fixed my oil leak as the old rocker cover was cracked and warped, I now need to replace my boost air inlet hoses as they have some cracks.
    • I am being real ocd and do not want to make amy mistakes so appreciate all help provided. I am overly cautious so asking for opinion even if i know the answer   few questions,   1.re tensioner, should spring be greased lightly?    2.tensioner has two washers , one pressure washer and other has recessed/ seat. I am going to put the recessed one facing tensioner where edges are cut out and pressure washer on top   3. my car has custom triger kit sold few years ago by guy who initially built the engine. I moved the crank gear and it moved in and out easy, only way to remove belt is to slide the crankshaft gear forward which I did. I have seen these being very tough to move , anything to do with my woodruff key?   it has a crank sensor shown in purple which I assume reads from the 12 teeth position mounted to the crankcase gear   4. timing belt doesn’t have arrow stating front or back just a arrow which I think is direction of rotation . Do you agree?   5.i figured out why my crankcase cover was worn as there was no washer installed over the crankcase cover before the harmonic balancer was put in place. It is missing, anyone knows the part number? It looks like this https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-crankshaft-timing-gear-rear-plate-washer-nissan-s13-ca18-a31-r32-rb20-r33-r34-c33-c34-c35-rb25?currency=USD   https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4535.382Zy2 https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4537.382dSz https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4534.382q4U  
    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
×
×
  • Create New...