Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

when starting from cold my oil pressure (greddy EL gauge) gets insanely high just at idle, the gauge itself goes to 10 kg/cm2 and it goes beyond 9 on cold, and if you touch the throttle it will continue (and red led will illuminate).

It runs pretty crap while cold and is un-drivable like this (bit of smoke if revved when cold). Once it gets up to normal operating temperature the pressure drops to about 4-2 at idle and will go up to 6 when revved a bit.

I put fresh oil in recently (Motul Turbolite) and its only been driven probably 20 km's since.

My main concern is its got a smaller oil filter (random SR20 filter i had spare) on it than standard as the normal one didn't fit (RB conversion into S13, doesn't clear the engine mount). I wouldn't have thought this would be a problem, but im no expert either.

Please help, this is stressing me out to the max! I just want to be able to drive the car not watch the pressure gauge!

Cheers

Tim,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263523-oil-pressure-really-high-when-cold/
Share on other sites

10kgcm2 is too high

when engine is cold i would expect around 5-6kgcm2 at idle until it warms up

do you have like a mega sump or very low oil volume

whats the state of the oil pump / and oil system?

how much oil is in the engine?

10kgcm2 is too high

when engine is cold i would expect around 5-6kgcm2 at idle until it warms up

do you have like a mega sump or very low oil volume

whats the state of the oil pump / and oil system?

how much oil is in the engine?

Hi Paul.

Its a standard sump, i have put about 4.5 litres maybe a bit more in it. Oil pump/system is unknown as I bought the bottom end already built and just had my head bolted on.

I just keep thinking maybe the oil filter??? Im pretty sure the oil filter is a z442 when it should have a z145a.

Or is it more likely the oil pressure reg is stuck?

Nah its Motul Turbolite which is 10W40 and i know of numerous people who have used this with no issues for many years in RB's.

Im putting it down to a couple of things:

Oil Filter

Oil Pump (could be an N1?)

Pressure Regulator?

Something else....

Hey Tim I run a z224 on the race car because z145 didn't fit with the sandwich plate. It might have some osrt of blockage but the part# is fine.

do you do this all the time? is this the tiny filter that cannot flow large volumes at high rev's starving your engines of oil and trashing your bearings?

Well im borrowing a mechanical gauge on the weekend to check (old man isn't convinced and thinks maybe the gauge is playing up), but when I got it home from an AIS check at idle it was sitting at 1 kg/cm2 (15psi) which is about normal... weird.

anyway its just not right still and im not risking doing any damage, but seriously CBF taking the engine out AGAIN :)

interesting question Paul. I've been running it for years on the race car and only had 1 motor fail with oil problems. And I am more tempted to blame that on the crack in the block's oil feed than the size of filter.

The really inconsistent readings suggests the sender, that is what we saw on both we have seen fail. but its still not worth taking the chance ;)

Hmm well i put an industrial gauge on it over the weekend, when cold its sitting around 80psi, but once warm its sitting at about 15-20psi.

Im going to see an oil specialist and see if changing grades might help just for cold starts (cold morning today and it was blowing smoke a fair bit), but once warm wasn't.

Im also thinking maybe its rich at cold start and idle since ive changed a few things in my fuel system (rewired fuel pump etc), so once i change oil's im gonna get the tune looked at, as on boost its fine.

Yeah seems fine to me. On cold start mine sits at about 70-80psi on normal driving, if i have to give it a bit when cold it hits up to 100psi. After a couple of minutes it goes back to normal around 50-60psi. Using Chrono 10W40.

15psi is lower than i would have thought for an RB at idle to be honest.

depends where your idle is set, if its set at factory 650rpm (which most cars dont seem to be anymore) then oil pressure can be down around 15, if it idling around 1000rpm it will be up around 25-30 (on my r34 this holds true anyway, im assuming it would be the same in all rb's)

I just ran 3 oils thru my engine over the weekend and a flush(due to some reason) and currently have Castrol magnatec 10w40.

On a cold start the factory oil pressure sits a few mm over the 4 bar mark

On a warm idle its around 2 or under. As far as i know - if your oil pressure drops BELOW 5-7psi - THEN you have a problem, anything over that is fine.

Phat mr 30 - Do you still have the factory oil pressure gauge? If so - whats that sitting at?

with my rb20det when cold it idles at about 55 psi and when cold driving sits at about 75 to 80 psi.

when hot it idles at 900rpm and 25 psi and drives at about 55 psi.

thats with penrite sin 40 (i think thats what its called)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...