Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Long time reader, first time posting. Tried searching the forums but couldn't find anything specifc on whether owners of the R35's plan on doing any mods when they get them (plenty of discussions about warranty etc). If so it would be interesting to see what equipment has been purchased / what mods are going to be carried out.

Obviously there are owners who don't want to void warranty etc but there are also those of us for whom warranty is not the be all and end all. To start the ball rolling the following equipment will be installed on my car when it arrives in June:

  • 5Zigen turbo downpipes, Y pipe and Spec Tune exhaust
  • K&N air filter
  • HKS SSBOV kit
  • AP Racing two piece front and rear rotors
  • Ferodo DS1.11 brake pads
  • TR1 Stainless Steel braided brake lines
  • AccessPORT ECU
  • HKS EVC 6
  • Cobb tuning Anti sway bars
  • Eibach spring kit
  • AMS crank pulley

I've bought the car as a track car so not for daily use etc. Would be interested to see who else is going to mod their R35.

Cheers

Slip.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263853-modifying-the-r35/
Share on other sites

if it's a track car there are a few other things you should really consider:

1. trans and engine oil cooler upgrades. the stock cooling system will get too hot after maybe 6 laps or so. if you want to run more than that in a session, you'll need to upgrade the cooling, it's a good idea anyway.

2. paddles that move with the steering wheel (MCR carbon paddle kit). it's a bit awkward (and dangerous) needing a gear mid corner and having to take your hand off the wheel to grab a gear.

3. race seat (good to save some weight over the stock seats and of course greatly improve the on-track driving. add a harness to that too.

4. cage. this one is not so neccessary if you just want to do sprints and track days, but worth thinking about. R35s are a very fast car, and very heavy too.

I would put this gear ahead of the bov kit, evc6 and the crank pulley. also think about some track wheels and tyres too.

I need to keep my car within CAMS 2D specs for NSW club based Sprints, so mods will be relatively lightweight.

1. Tyres (295 RE55's all round) on 18" Enkei 18x10's

2. Midpipe

3. Willall tranny fluid and possibly cooler

4. Harness bar + harness

5. AP front rotors and uprated pads + fluid

Unfortunately i need to run the factory tune on the circuit (2D rules).

I might try the AccessPort for the street, strip and valet mode though.

Thanks Beer Baron,

I have a new set of Recaro's for the vehicle already and am looking into the cage side of things to see who can do one. I agree with your comments re the paddles, I have the MCR ones on order from the States but am waiting to receive them.

I saw that Willall Racing do the transmission intercooler upgrade, I'll have a chat to them about the oil cooler upgrade as well and get them to do both at the same time if this can be sourced.

Cheers

Slip.

Edited by SlipR35
Thanks Beer Baron,

I have a new set of Recaro's for the vehicle already and am looking into the cage side of things to see who can do one. I agree with your comments re the paddles, I have the MCR ones on order from the States but am waiting to receive them.

I saw that Willall Racing do the transmission intercooler upgrade, I'll have a chat to them about the oil cooler upgrade as well and get them to do both at the same time if this can be sourced.

Cheers

Slip.

have a look at giant's R35. he had a lovely cage built for that. i drove it at oran park gp on the weekend and it was lovely to drive. very easy to steer on the throttle and even though the chassis is pretty good to start with the cage does help, and of course adds to the safety. his has been retuned too with more boost etc and runs very nicely. the only thing you need to do is keep one eye on temps of trans and engine oil.

the biggest improver to driving feel would be:

seat and harness

wheel and moveable paddles

those things transform the way you can drive the car.

Long time reader, first time posting. Tried searching the forums but couldn't find anything specifc on whether owners of the R35's plan on doing any mods when they get them (plenty of discussions about warranty etc). If so it would be interesting to see what equipment has been purchased / what mods are going to be carried out.

Obviously there are owners who don't want to void warranty etc but there are also those of us for whom warranty is not the be all and end all. To start the ball rolling the following equipment will be installed on my car when it arrives in June:

  • 5Zigen turbo downpipes, Y pipe and Spec Tune exhaust
  • K&N air filter
  • HKS SSBOV kit
  • AP Racing two piece front and rear rotors
  • Ferodo DS1.11 brake pads
  • TR1 Stainless Steel braided brake lines
  • AccessPORT ECU
  • HKS EVC 6
  • Cobb tuning Anti sway bars
  • Eibach spring kit
  • AMS crank pulley

I've bought the car as a track car so not for daily use etc. Would be interested to see who else is going to mod their R35.

Cheers

Slip.

First mods should be a Y-Pipe and the Cobb ECU and probably a boost controller because even with the latest maps some people complain about issues with Cobb's boost control. The next best value for money mod is the wastegate actuators swap.

Your Australian spec GT-R will have stiffened brake lines anyway, not sure brake lines are needed. Brake pads and some aftermarket slotted rotors for is all you need for the brakes.

BOVs? Why would you bother... Unless you're already buying the GT570 kit which comes with them there's no reason to go out and buy these on purpose.

With the seriesII suspension, spring kits aren't really doing anything for you unless you just want to lower it and already standard ride height is low. They weren't designed with the series II suspension in mind. See what comes out over the next few months in terms of springs but probably not worth doing.

Crank pulley? I wouldn't.

K&N Filters? Probably fine to replace the stock ones after the run in period with these but dont expect any gains.

Might be the wrong place to ask, and forgive me for asking a question that has probably already been covered, but does anyone know if the R35 can be switched to rear wheel drive only easily?

I was sure that it was said somewhere before but bugger me if I can find it.???

Cheers.

Well anyone interested in getting a Cobb should know we can now do a custom tune for them :sick:

The base tunes with the units are only designed for 96RON fuel so they'll work ok but could be improved. But we got the full Cobb Pro tuning software during the week.

Like others have said I reckon a Cobb + Midpipe is about where you'd want to be at if you are keen on modding your R35 as the most sensible place to start.

Oh - and rotors/pads. That way you can put your stock ones back on before you go back to Nissan in "new" condition and not be flogged with a $10K replacement.

Might be the wrong place to ask, and forgive me for asking a question that has probably already been covered, but does anyone know if the R35 can be switched to rear wheel drive only easily?

I was sure that it was said somewhere before but bugger me if I can find it.???

Cheers.

You drop the return driveshaft from the transfer case.

It's not a simple fuse pull.

The Supercar Club guys came around with their new Gunmetal JDM GT-R tonight care of Beer Baron and we did a quick Cobb treatment on it to get rid of the speed limitter before it goes to Phillip Island tomorrow. Good little toy those Cobbs.

We also had a Willall Midpipe which we put on tonight and as a free pulg to Martin here it was a beautiful fit, made a HUGE improvement to external noise but internally (at least with the windows up) there was bugger all marked difference in noise and had no noticable drone on either the freeway or around the normal streets. The only real time you could hear the difference from behind the wheel was on the big down-shifts as then you could really hear the bark. Although driving with the windows down you can definitely hear it.

But thumbs up for a great mod to get. Easy to install (took 15mins on my gargage floor) and for the $$$ I can see no reason why you'd get a more expensive Jap one. And its definitely a major improvent over the stock system.

Well anyone interested in getting a Cobb should know we can now do a custom tune for them :banana:

The base tunes with the units are only designed for 96RON fuel so they'll work ok but could be improved. But we got the full Cobb Pro tuning software during the week.

Like others have said I reckon a Cobb + Midpipe is about where you'd want to be at if you are keen on modding your R35 as the most sensible place to start.

Oh - and rotors/pads. That way you can put your stock ones back on before you go back to Nissan in "new" condition and not be flogged with a $10K replacement.

Do you sell the Cobb tuner itself and is it in stock? If so could you PM me a price? Cheers!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...