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Not to go off on a tangent too much from this build thread, but seeing you posted I shall post the crap your company sold to me, then didn’t want to know about it nor want to inspect it for a design fault.

This clutch, was installed by a clutch specialist, this clutch lasted not even 72hrs. I wanted a clutch to use in my car as my OS twin plate was getting rebuilt. The phone monkey at the time was adamant this would be up to the task…

CIMG07812eJPGmsgBF2B8030-CEF6-446A-.jpg

CIMG07872eJPGmsgBF2B8030-CEF6-446A-.jpg

CIMG07832eJPGmsgBF2B8030-CEF6-446A-.jpg

To be honest as this was a couple of years ago, I’m not even phased if you reply.

Ouch this clutch has coped a hard time and let go big time. Looks like a rag clutch ( organic plate) no good for heat or racing.

Re air cooling, no pics to show as haven't taken any, other than probably some on my car which would be on our site in motorsports section.

No bling parts, it is more drilling and leaving things out, although you can run a duct in and out of bell housing as some race cars do.

GTR's have small rubber vents at top of bell housing, which is more than most cars have and ok for high performance standard road car, but imagine how hot it gets in this almost sealed relatively small area. Also helps cook the gear oil, along with the often unshielded after market staino engine pipes, right close to the gear box. Imagine if you had full face wheels and full dust shields, your brakes would melt, not quite the same although lots of energy going through equivalent of one rotor. Bottom line is if a car is going to the track with much more hp than it was born with, you should do counter measures, as everything gets stressed a lot more, and everything gets a lot hotter. My single plate clutch has lasted for many years, mainly as ari cooled. I know not 4wd which puts extra load and lighter, but using wide sticky semi slicks or previously old slicks and hanging on to up to 400 plus rwkw, with an average of 10 track days a year.

R34 GTR have a series of alloy fins moulded to gear box for cooling. I have done something similar also on my car.

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Thanks guys... Some pics from yesterday.

Brakes are fitted... I'll take better photos later with the wheels off:

FRONT - CP5555 6Pot Calipers, 356mm AP Racing J-Hook Discs

090627_brakes_front.jpg

REAR - CP5200 4 Pot Calipers, 343mm AP Racing J-Hook Discs

090627_brakes_rear.jpg

Wheel fitment, for people who asked...

Car was on a hoist to take photos of the suspension... The wheels obviously tuck in a little more when sitting on the ground.

These are 18x10 +12 wheels.

090627_wheel_align_1.jpg

090627_wheel_align_2.jpg

I'll post some suspension pics when I get back... Need to ask you guys some questions about steering bump stops. Seems like the Ikeya Foruma front LCAs don't have anything to limit the amount of steering lock?!? :)

Ooooooookay....

Now here's the kicker. It seems that the front LCAs, in conjunction with the tie rod ends, results in unlimited front steering :P

Wheels pointing straight:

090627_lca_stop_1.jpg

This is already turned too far:

090627_lca_stop_2.jpg

............. aaaaaaaaaand all the way extended.

090627_lca_stop_3.jpg

See? Way too far.

090627_lca_stop_4.jpg

Check out the CV boot.

090627_lca_stop_5.jpg

yeah not right at all. Is it the same both sides? how is the length of the steering arm compared to standard

BTW you are a dead set brand whore. John stocks the same or better stuff made locally. Those roll centre adjusters on the LCA and tie rod for example.

having looked more closely.....the tie rod ends look miles longer than standard.

and as we found in my car both caster and camber settings also affect the required length of the tie rod as the hub gets pulled around. we had to cut down my tie rod ends...and that was with the standard setup.

i honestly don't see the big deal about the ikea stuff....the welding is excellent and they are way over-engineered (yes a very good thing). but the design, particularly in the rear is no better than what just jap offer at 1/4 the price.

Leave me, and my Calvin Klein underwear out of this :P

I buy Jap stuff on the premise they have been tested and proven... Also with the aim to fit them without fuss, but these things have proved otherwise.

Believe it or not, the tie rod ends have ALREADY been cut down.

yeah sorry not sure, in fact I haven't picked up a set of their tie rod ends yet. I also haven't measured the factory ones and don't have a set here to do so....just saying they look substantially longer than factory eg 50% longer. The original question about the rack being centrered properly still stands too, pretty sure ben would already have checked it out but it's worth double checking.

sorry, back onto brakes, do the rear hats have a drum machined in to the rear fro the handbrake?

No handbrake shoes in the rear discs... Don't want that dead weight. Using a hydraulic handbrake instead :thumbsup:

let me ask you this. in driving on the track (or anywhere other than parking manoeuvres) how often do you hit the LCA to limit steering? my answer would be never. all the factory steering stop is is a piece of the LCA that sticks out a bit. yes, without it you now have the potential for more lock (too much) but will you ever use it? I don't think so. john reckons it could be an issue in an accident but if it's that bad an accident that it's slamming the tie rod into the LCA stopper then i'm not sure how much difference there will be with or without that little protrusion. personally I wouldn't worry about it, but it certainly would be possible to add something.

check out the stock LCA. they are not that different. I'm not sure how much more the stock LCA protrudes to stop steering angle...

r32frontsus.jpg

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