Jump to content
SAU Community

Does A Car Need To Be Registered For L2s Events

timsr33

By timsr33,
in Motorsport Discussion & Builds

 Share

Recommended Posts

timsr33 Community Regular

timsr33

Posted
Posted

does a car need to be registered for hill climbs and super sprints and road rallys and time attack

as im looking at a non compliable car at the moment to put all my running gear in but still want to be able to do all the events i can in a road car is this possible and if so what is need to be done to the car

also does a non complied car have a compliance plate or vin numbers as i looked at a car today and he had import papers and the car had ignitoin barrel and key but no plate where the vin is

any help would be appreciated thanks tim

evil_weevil Grand Master

evil_weevil

Posted
Posted

Nup!

Plenty of cars I see at supersprints and hill climbs are unreg :)

as long as it meets and passes scruitineering and you are in the correct class - you'll have no dramas with it at sueprsprints, hillclimbs, motorkhanas etc etc

Second part, no idea sorry!

timsr33 Community Regular

timsr33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Nup!

Plenty of cars I see at supersprints and hill climbs are unreg :)

as long as it meets and passes scruitineering and you are in the correct class - you'll have no dramas with it at sueprsprints, hillclimbs, motorkhanas etc etc

Second part, no idea sorry!

would you no about road rallies like dutton or targa

PHaT MR30 Grand Master

PHaT MR30

Posted
Posted

I am not sure about Dutton, but Targa you can get temporary rego and you run on targa plates so long as it passes scrutiny.

As for hillclimbs temporary rego if you want to drive it to the event, or just trailer it out. These events are all on closed roads so you do not have to comply with road rego.

timsr33 Community Regular

timsr33

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
No they dont, and never will.

sorry i ment chassis numbers as he said they get removed on all cars that come in as a race car or parts car

Edited by timsr33
msports180 Mentor

msports180

Posted
Posted

If the car is uncompliable then no complience plates and no chassis number. These have to be removed.

And most club level stuff any un-reg car is welcome as mentioned, My old R34 was uncompliable and i had no robs entering.

I have never heard of it needing to be log booked to need to compete though?

Neil Grand Master

Neil

Posted
Posted

Have a read of the sup regs:

1st is NSW H/Climb Champs

SDMA_15_Feb_Supp_Regs_FINAL.doc

2nd is NSW S/Sprint sup regs:-

R2_Supp_Regs.pdf

If the car is unregoed and you were serious then a log book would be an advantage.

You really need to sift through the cams manual as well. good luck on that one.

Hope this helps.

Neil.

timsr33 Community Regular

timsr33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for the help guys i dont think im going to get this car i was looking as i talked to sss imports and he said any car that is imported to australia even if it is a parts car it must have a vin number or the cop will asume its stolen ill have to keep looking

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

thats not quite true.

a whole car can't be imported for parts. it needs to be cut in half first, so you will notice if it is a genuine "for parts" import

race or rally imports can be brought in and will retain their original japanese vin. my car fits this category and has nsw rally rego despite being uncompliable.

properly complied cars will have an aussie vin on a plate. normally starts with 0u69. Will also have a jap vin.

any car without a (jap and/or aus) vin should be assumed to be stolen.

timsr33 Community Regular

timsr33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
thats not quite true.

a whole car can't be imported for parts. it needs to be cut in half first, so you will notice if it is a genuine "for parts" import

race or rally imports can be brought in and will retain their original japanese vin. my car fits this category and has nsw rally rego despite being uncompliable.

properly complied cars will have an aussie vin on a plate. normally starts with 0u69. Will also have a jap vin.

any car without a (jap and/or aus) vin should be assumed to be stolen.

thanks heaps duncan

JiN_MaN Veteran

JiN_MaN

Posted
Posted
a whole car can't be imported for parts. it needs to be cut in half first, so you will notice if it is a genuine "for parts" import

Or a whole car can be imported as a parts car if it has had, both front and rear sub frames removed, including engine/gearbox/tailshaft.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted
thats not quite true.

a whole car can't be imported for parts. it needs to be cut in half first, so you will notice if it is a genuine "for parts" import

race or rally imports can be brought in and will retain their original japanese vin. my car fits this category and has nsw rally rego despite being uncompliable.

properly complied cars will have an aussie vin on a plate. normally starts with 0u69. Will also have a jap vin.

any car without a (jap and/or aus) vin should be assumed to be stolen.

It's 6U9 then 0's then the original chassis number to make a total of 17 digits. ie. 6U9000BNR32001234 in that case the original nissan chassis number was BNR32001234 and DOTARS added 6U9000 to it.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted
Or a whole car can be imported as a parts car if it has had, both front and rear sub frames removed, including engine/gearbox/tailshaft.

that's really interesting.

lol seriously. what happens to the vin in this case? all of the parts you listed are easily replaced

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
    • joshuaho96
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All I hear is ROADTRIP!
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
×
×
  • Create New...