Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

for under 10k, i'd get a ke70, full suspension, wheels, exhaust etc, and then when i got a nice car off my p's i'd throw an sr20 in the ke for a track pig

He isn't allowed to modify it either remember :P

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

datsun 1200 ute :blush:

Girlfriend just bought one (not her first car, but I refuse to travel in a VW Beetle!), with extractors and tune for PULP, great fun to drive, $30 lasts you over 200km of giving it a fair bit of stick, hard to do anything illegal in (though it feels like 60 is a lot faster lol), and you can chuck a bigger or better motor in there quite easily.

Peugot 205GTI - Icon of the small hot hatch cars. They are quite expensive to maintain and repair due to the cost of pug parts

race_peugeot205gti3.jpg

Honda Civic EG Vti - has vtec, sunroof and a nice looking car in stock form

49476al.jpg

Toyota Mr2 Aw11 - rear wheel drive, mid engine, gets plenty of looks and mistaken for old school ferrari.

aw11_1.jpg

Nissan N14 SSS - sr20de, zippy little car. (car has had turbo conversion so disregard the fmic, bonnet is from a gtir)

image003hy7small.jpg

Nissan R31 2door import (non turbo) - rare to find non turbo i believe, only seen one for sale..

5371290002_large.jpg

Honda Integra DC2 Vtir or Type-R - Quick cars, handle awesomely well

95.08-integra-3d-typer.jpg

Also you can get r32 gts, r33 gts4, r34 gt, r31 sil etc

With the p-plate laws they dont allow any cars with power, so you're better off finding a car which can handle the best. Some of the cars listed above could keep up if not out handle your standard silvia/skyline on twisty roads, but it all depends on the drivers skill.

if u want a thrash car go for a corrolla or old datsun, stick an sr20 in it lock the diff and go drifting, easy to keep them p plate legal and under the radar.

other cars like sprinters(my choice) and silvias and old r31 silouettes and r32 gt's non turbo would be viable to, surprising thing is had my liscence maybe 4 months ish not been pulled up once in the sprinter so go old under the radar cars ftw :)

or for something big and old holden or ford be cheap and easy to maintain. way to many options to choose from :( i want an r31 import :( if u can find one of those, their gorgeoussssssss.

k end babbling now, in all seriousness silvia, rwd corrollas, old skylines, and sprinters would be the best choice assuming your mostly a jap/import fan :) be different and find a laurel that would be nice as.

yah get a sprinter... their price gone up a bit...but you should be able to pull one off for under 10k... but the best P plater car (apart from S2k or anything around that price range)...although its a bit outa your budget.... autech S15, N/A, runs about 150kw they're on car point for about 18ish...

Okay I believe I have a fairly concise list of fun p plate legal cars that I have owned here here:

- 1994 N14 SR20DE Pulsar Ti about $4/5k quicker than a SSS because its abought 100 kilos lighter, and looks like a normal pulsar. I love these things (just bought another one) and are so easily modified - not that you can do that.

- 1988 - 1992 Honda Civic Twin Cam Twin Carb about $2/4k fun, noisy, handles well, slooooow though. Not a bad thing, the most fun cars are often not that quick i.e. the original mini.

- 1988+ Honda CRX VTEC D16 about $4k+ same car as above but actually with a decent amount of poke.

- 1990+ 4AGE Corolla Seca about $2/4k easy to modify, great noise, quick for a front wheel drive, handles well.

- Suzuki Swift GTi about $3k+ one of the most fun cars you can own, sweet little engine, fun package. Downside is its girly. Downside for me is I overturned mine in a ditch. Good times.

- Golf GTi can pick these up cheap now - about $5k for a mark 2, about $10k for a mark 4. The original hot hatch. Not that quick really, handles beautifully, quite reliable.

- Golf VR6 about $5/8k. A golf GTi with bigger balls and a 2.6 litre V6. 

- Honda Prelude 3rd/4th gen up to $10k. Honda reliability with a decent engine. Get the Si-R version for VTECs and a real ballsy cruiser.

- Mitsubishi FTO 2.0 V6 manual. about too expensive. It handles. It accellerates. Its waaaaay overpriced.

- Any rear wheel drive datsun. Their all fun, impossible to break and easy to fix if you do.

- R31 Skyline. about $1k to $10k model dependant. Hard to kill, fun as to drive, a stock manual one will drift, the HR31 coupes are the pick though. Parts are getting hard to find. 

Ahh if I think of anything else I'll post it up.

Hi guys.

Just came here looking for some decent suggestions on P-Plate legal cars. I want something that looks nice and has a bit of grunt too for around the $10k mark. I've been looking at N/A R32's and new model Preludes, but I'm really unsure.

Thanks guys.

gtr

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...