Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Am looking to upgrade my brakes on a S13 Silvia (again!). More braking power is always good!

The car is driven mainly on the track and only on the road to and from the track and the tuners.

Has done a best of 1:08.8 at Wakefield.

It currently has 5 stud conversion with S14 calipers and rotors, Nismo braided brake lines, RBF 600 fluid, Lucas TRW pads and a cusco stopper. Rear brakes are stock with Lucas pads. This set up works quite well however I would like to be able to brake later and with more confidence.

My options;

1. I have a kit that upgrades the stock S14 rotors to run 324mm Brembo rotors with bigger pads cut down to suit using adaptor plates whilst retaining the S14 calipers. This is the kit.

Brake Upgrade Kit Link

2. I also have R32 GTR calipers that I was planning to run with the above kit but these do not fit correctly. So my option with these are to run the standard 296mm rotor and GTR caliper.

3. Wilwood Brake Upgrade Kit. Have found this kit and was after some feedback on it.

Wilwood Brake Upgrade Kit

Is it me or does it look like the caliper does not cover the entire surface area of the rotor? Would this caliper be alot better than the S14 and R32 GTR calipers? Would this kit be better than the above 2, by alot? Have tried contacting the seller but to no avail and have checked out the information on the Wilwood site but could not decipher most of the information on it.

Wilwood Brake Upgrade Kit USA

This looks like the same kit but postage is US$505!!!!

Basically which option would be best?

I already have the first 2 at home and was going to try them out and then work out which is best of the 2 however I would like your opinions.

Thanks.

Edited by SRS13

I guess it depends how much power you are making, but the 32 gtr standard gear should be ok for 200-220kw. Shame that option 2 doesn't fit correctly - have you looked into how much it would cost to correct the problem? modifying or even making new adapaters shouldn't be that expensive.

I wouldn't touch option 3 - like lots of brands they have a range of quality/price points and that kit looks to be at the bottom. Not to mention you will have trouble witha range of pads to suit in Aus, and its still a single piece rotor too. For 2000-2500 you can't go past the G4 brakes kits which come with everything including 2 piece rotors.

One other option - have you considered just buying more aggressive pads? If its track only or you are happy to change pads when you arrive there are a large range of pads with much higher performance than standard type stuff. Thats assuming the s14 brakes are 4 pot and 280mm+ rotors, I have no idea :blush:

Thanks Duncan.

Power is around 240rwk depending on boost levels I run.

Yeah I was quite peeved when it didnt fit as I was told it does. Sounds like the Wilwood kit is one to pass then which makes the scenario easier. I know Unique Autosports sell an adapter to be able to run the GTR caliper.

Of the first 2 options which would be best? Which would give better stopping and lasting power??

Option 1 - S14 caliper with 324mm Brembo rotor with adapter and larger Brembo pads cut to suit

or

Option 2 - R32 GTR Caliper with 296mm rotor and standard sized pads

well the 324mm 33 GTR sized rotor with the caliper adapters and the standard S14 sumitomo 4 pot caliper will be good. I personally would just use the proper pad for that caliper rather than stuff around cutting up another pad to try and get a little more pad area. and as duncan suggested try some more hard core pads. the other option is to get the brembo caliper to go with the 324mm rotors, but they are not really a big step up from the sumitomo 4 spots, although you can bleed both sides of the caliper on the brembos which is nice.

I looked into the Wilwood kits a lot when I was in the market for upgraded brakes, and by the time I'd specc'd them to what I wanted, and factored in shipping etc I found they just weren't going to cut it considering the pads were an unknown quantity over here, and replacement parts were going to be difficult to source.

Adz on here was running the 324mm upgrade kit with GTS-T calipers, and was not super happy with them from memory. However Troy has run them on his 32 and was reasonably happy, maybe he could add to this?

There was a massive thread about them on here a year or two ago: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fr...&hl=adaptor

My thread on brake upgrades for S13's which may be of interest: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...&hl=adaptor

The adaptor are a good budget upgrade. If you can stretch the dollars the GTR Brembo is the slightly better option. If you are after a kit then go the AP 4 pot on 330mm rotor, i think the caliper is CP4200. GavSport or UAS in Sydney should be able to price it up for you. If the 330mm kit is a bit exxy then get it for a std sized GTR 324mm rotor so you can run the cheaper DBA 5000, 4000s or rotors from Project or Endless.

..my 2c.

Thanks guys. As it currently stands I have fitted the S14 caliper with 324mm rotor and will see how it goes.

However I am seriously looking at an AP Racing kit using AP 4 piston calipers, 343mm DBA 5000 rotors, braided lines, Ferodo 2500 pads and adaptors - will this fit under a 17inch wheel? Will the BMC cope (SR20DET item) or will this need replacing to a Skyline item? Will this cause issues if I run the standard rear brakes?

Cheers.

Edited by SRS13

I would say there would be very little in the AP vs OE Brembo to the average driver. But the APs would be better. I know a guy that did the install on his STI and commented that the APs felt so much better and the car was easier to stop at the track. So cant see why a Nissan would be any different.

Thanks guys. As it currently stands I have fitted the S14 caliper with 324mm rotor and will see how it goes.

However I am seriously looking at an AP Racing kit using AP 4 piston calipers, 343mm DBA 5000 rotors, braided lines, Ferodo 2500 pads and adaptors - will this fit under a 17inch wheel? Will the BMC cope (SR20DET item) or will this need replacing to a Skyline item? Will this cause issues if I run the standard rear brakes?

Cheers.

Be careful if you are running the AP CP4200, they are only meant for a 330mm rotor, but some places make up their own kits to run them with a 343mm rotor. So you end up with a similar situation with what you are doing with teh S14 caliper and 324mm rotor and running a rotor size the caliper is not intended for. I think you will also find that the CP4200 is only designed for a 30mm thick rotor, and just about all 343mm rotors are 32mm thick. So using a 30mm one might limit your access and lock you into a certain supplier for replacement rotors, whch may mean more then you shoudl pay

Thats is of course assuming my memory is correct regarding the CP4200. There are of corse other 4 pot calipers in the AP range but none that have the same or similar price tag. If you want 343mm and 4 pot then you are best look at Brembo F40 or F50 or perhaps the CSC/B-Spec 4 pot kits from Melbourne

Anywhere from 3-5k last I checked for those sorts of sizes, depending on brand of rotors, lines, caliper etc.

As for the kit you mentioned fitting under a 17, it all depends on what 17 it is.

I have been using a few of the BREMBO z33 sets getting around too as they seem to come up often on ebay etc, they are tricky to fit but do work.

The Wilwood gear is well serviced by ROCKET industries (NSW) and UPC (VIC) the calipers are good but definatly lower end of the market.

GTR or Z33 Brembo upgrades seem to be the best value and with correct pads work extremely well.

3-5k, thought it was around that. The kit has DBA 5000 rotors, I have asked to confirm the caliper model number or kit number.

The wheels are A-Tech Monoblock 17x8 & 17x9

IMG_3738.jpg

This is them with the S14 caliper and 324mm rotor. You can also see the lower half of the larger pad covering the disc.

IMG_3743.jpg

A close up of the 324mm rotor and space. There is about 3cm of space between the caliper and the rim.

IMG_3745.jpg

Edited by SRS13

The Stoptech kit was in the front running for my car too before the exchange rate started to take a tumble. They're very expensive right now, but should get a bit cheaper later in the year.

I went for the CSC kit in the end. I haven't used it as yet, so I can't comment but Ric Shaw used it in the Nurburg 24hr on his RX-7, so I'm sure they'll do me just fine. Another guy on NS has just put them on his car too and loves them, so I'm expecting big things.

I don't much like the look of the kit you're going to run, that pad doesn't sit well with me...

post-8405-1241058647_thumb.jpg

Thanks for the comments and help guys.

'If' I do run this kit I will take the larger pad out and run the standard size. That seems to be the consensus amongst many of you on here and NS.com

Actually on saying that, I may not run this kit at all. It will be the S14 caliper and rotor or the AP kit.

The AP kit has the CP6600 4 piston calipers with 330mm DBA 5000 rotors. It is one of there road kits. Thoughts on this kit?

phunky: if you don't mind, what was the price of that kit?

Thanks for the comments and help guys.

'If' I do run this kit I will take the larger pad out and run the standard size. That seems to be the consensus amongst many of you on here and NS.com

Actually on saying that, I may not run this kit at all. It will be the S14 caliper and rotor or the AP kit.

The AP kit has the CP6600 4 piston calipers with 330mm DBA 5000 rotors. It is one of there road kits. Thoughts on this kit?

phunky: if you don't mind, what was the price of that kit?

the s14 caliper is average compared to r33 etc... just something to bear in mind.

My kit was bought in pieces, but cost me around $2200 with lines. They had seen 1 hill climb and 7 laps of Sandown before I got my hands on them.

Stuart from Benson Motorsport has them new and is a top guy, so speak to him if you're keen on them. Should save you a bit over the AP's, and get you a bigger disc. If you want another opinion speak to this guy, he has them on his 180 too: http://nissansilvia.com.au/forums/index.php?showuser=27028

I priced up a lot of different kits, and did a lot of research and these ticked all the boxes for me.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...