Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thanks dude. much appreciated. in the end i have researched my butt off to make sure im doing the right thing! and i know i am...sure its 30k but i know its gonna be worth it in the end lol :P im happy with my decision.

Well, stroking a 2.5 to a 2.7 is going to adversely effect you compression ratio and make the engine more prone to detonation, you need to shift a huge amount of air for 500kw, the two of these add up to disaster. But I think the sc and engine will run out of huff long before then.

Demotivation09.jpg

Edited by The Mundi
  • Replies 134
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

lolz na man she wants to do something unique like blow her car; thats different!

jokes aside, i like the charged route...check out the s15 twincharged which is really cool (i know its turbocharged too) but in the US they are selling quite a few supercharger kits for bmw 3 series with great results! aim for a reasonable amount of power like 400ish hp from an efficient supercharger and you can have a torque monster

The bmw kit is stealth; anodised black it just blends in with the engine covers so it can be made 'stealthy' im a big fan

Well now that I've read this from start to finish I'll comment:

To ahjosh - your a knob.

To the 34 girl - I think you may need to rethink the numbers, I know you say you have done "alot" of research and Im not doubting that. What I am doubting is the ability of a stroked 2.5L engine being able to produce 750Hp with a supercharger.

Regardless of what you do during this rebuild it simply won't flow enough - and if it does it will last all of about 1 day running 40 psi.

I don't mean any disrespect, but have you seen anyone get near these results with an RB25? or RB27? Best I've heard of is about ~200kw

At the end of the day - your car and your money so do what you want. But when its done don't expect people not to say "I told you so"

My 2 cents

Well now that I've read this from start to finish I'll comment:

To ahjosh - your a knob.

To the 34 girl - I think you may need to rethink the numbers, I know you say you have done "alot" of research and Im not doubting that. What I am doubting is the ability of a stroked 2.5L engine being able to produce 750Hp with a supercharger.

Regardless of what you do during this rebuild it simply won't flow enough - and if it does it will last all of about 1 day running 40 psi.

I don't mean any disrespect, but have you seen anyone get near these results with an RB25? or RB27? Best I've heard of is about ~200kw

At the end of the day - your car and your money so do what you want. But when its done don't expect people not to say "I told you so"

My 2 cents

totally agree with u on the fact tht ahjosh is a knob and the chick... but u can take a rb25 is capable of just more than ~200kw. im currently puttin gout 250rwkw....

but yea... 500kw even after increasing to 2.7L is just a joke.

totally agree with u on the fact tht ahjosh is a knob and the chick... but u can take a rb25 is capable of just more than ~200kw. im currently puttin gout 250rwkw....

but yea... 500kw even after increasing to 2.7L is just a joke.

he's referring to using a supercharger...

RB25's can make a shedload more than 200rwkw - has been proven many times, just not with superchargers...

there's a difference in the exponential power that a turbo makes and the linear power that a supercharger works. Also due to the supercharger's direct attachment to the engine (wheras a turbo works independently off the exhaust) there's a loss incurred. So just because a turbo can let an RB25 make more than 200 easily, doesn't mean a supercharger's gonna be just as easy.

just regarding the rb motor..i can't double check, but isn't there a few 1000hp skylines? what engines were they using? probably would be helpful looking up what exactly they did

Getting the horsepower from a supercharger isn't the problem. Getting the horsepower from a low compression engine to turn the supercharger to begin with will be a problem.

Maybe I should get all of my engineering/car manual stuff out and write up a FAQ on superchargers. It sure would stop a lot of speculation... Hell I'm going to do it.

EDIT: Oh and superchargers don't neccessarily make linear power gains. Centrifugal superchargers have a somewhat similar power curve to a turbo due to their design. Hell don't worry I'll write this FAQ up and be done with it.

Edited by R33_Dude

It's not hard to tell that no-one has done any real research into it.... 2 seconds of RB supercharger kit found one to suit an RB30 off the shelf.

Castlemain Rod shop do a SC14 kit for an RB30. I'm sure you could use that kit and modify the outlet pipe to suit the NEO. As for wasting cash, a complete kit cost $2400. Easy.

Here's the link

So now go do it.

Ok so lets just say that "hyperthiticly" I'm considering supercharging my r34 skyline as im on my p's,will a sc14 supercharger make enough difference to bother with and would it be hard to hide,I'd plan on setting up a hiden on/off button so i can use it when im on the track and then turn it of for daily driving :)

What will i need? other then the supercharger and do i need to add anything,would i be able to do it myself without any hasel's?

Stick to NA on Ps and turbos on full licence.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
    • Mine is all -12, I’m running a dry sump in a billet block though 
×
×
  • Create New...