Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26/30 Build, Yet Another One... ;)

Simonster
 Share

Recommended Posts

Marko R1 Grand Master

Marko R1

Posted
Posted
but haven't you done just that when you put a spacer plate on the bottom of your engine? It would lower the front driveshafts connection point by the thickness of the plate so therefore alter the angle...yes?

You are right, sump has dropped by 8mm which is the spacer plate thickness. I wanted to further drop my engine as well but rob @ rips advised not to do this, maybe that extra 15mm is enough to make it close to impossible? Not sure myself

  • Replies 277
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
Posted
I suggested that the gearbox had been mounted differently but I was getting at raising the gearbox mounts to tilt the engine forward to clear.. no response :laugh:

raising the gearbox mounts would have the rear of the engine heaps higher than it is now, dont forget the extra height of the rb30 AND the rear of the motor is sitting at around the same height as an rb26. plus the front of the motor is a little bit higher than a stock rb26 and is tilted back slightly.

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted
raising the gearbox mounts would have the rear of the engine heaps higher than it is now, dont forget the extra height of the rb30 AND the rear of the motor is sitting at around the same height as an rb26. plus the front of the motor is a little bit higher than a stock rb26 and is tilted back slightly.

So you think there was no angular change? more of a uniform lowering?

If I could be bothered doing the maths, I would. But, roughly speaking, somewhere around 10mm raise at the gearbox end would be about 5mm (possibly a gross exageration.. cbf crunching the numbers) at the timing belt cover.

This is stupid, between everybody I'm sure we've though of every possible option! Just tell us already!!

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
Posted (edited)
So you think there was no angular change? more of a uniform lowering?

If I could be bothered doing the maths, I would. But, roughly speaking, somewhere around 10mm raise at the gearbox end would be about 5mm (possibly a gross exageration.. cbf crunching the numbers) at the timing belt cover.

This is stupid, between everybody I'm sure we've though of every possible option! Just tell us already!!

raising the gearbox mounts would have the rear of the engine heaps higher than it is now, dont forget the extra height of the rb30 AND the rear of the motor is sitting at around the same height as an rb26. plus the front of the motor is a little bit higher than a stock rb26 and is tilted back slightly.

= angular change.

dont forget the engine mounts were modified too.

Edited by SECURITY
kaiden Apprentice

kaiden

Posted
Posted
This engine was originally built with the intention of replacing the RB20 in my 4 door 32. It soon became apparent that, that wasn't going to happen and a better home for it would be in a GTR, but since i don't own a GTR that would prove difficult, so the RB25 in my Sil80 was the next best thing. BUT that engine is already producing 430rwhp with fantastic torque, and really, how much power can an S13 chassis really put to good use?

So the S13 got the nod and the build started. Went thru 3 RB30 blocks before a suitable one was found. I guess there's nothing overtly special about this build compared to the many others, except it's mine!

RB26 head, light port, decked, CC'd chambers, performance springs, standard valves, stem seals, seat pressures etc etc

Tomei 260, 9.1 cams

Adjustable gears

Custom fuel rail

Head oil return to sump

Siemens 870cc injetors, 2 pintle design

Sard FPR

Cometic HG

GTR pleunum and throttles.

Head Restrictors and enlargend oil returns

Block xrayed, decked and internally painted, welsh plugs etc

Spool rods, ACL pistons 9.0:1 comp ratio

ARP head bolts

ACL bearings

Crank polished and grub screwed

Ross balancer

N1 oil & water pumps

Jun crank collar cryo treated

Enlargened RWD sump with baffles & doors

Now i did have a GT3540 0.82 ex housing but i lent it to a mate to diagnose a problem he was having with his car, which it fixed so i probably won't bet it back :) SO, i can either continue this route, or go twins. I'm leaning towards twins and a set of 2530, be it HKS preferably or -5's

Designed to be a time attack engine so response is paramount. There is only a few with twins that i can find.

Here are some pics, not many but you get the idea

IMG_0972_2.jpg

IMG_1001.jpg

IMG_0977.jpg

IMG_0985_2.jpg

IMG_1004.jpg

looks like a nice job ahead

Marko R1 Grand Master

Marko R1

Posted
Posted

f**k sake, whats the go with all the noobs quoting pics and replying twice with absolute crap.

hahaha - go kaiden u funny farker

sorry but i dont know this guy, maybe he can be excused for driving a BRRRRDSHHH (wrx)

Simonster Proficient

Simonster

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

he he , its much more interesting sitting back and listening to you guys think about it out load :down:

Between the lot of you, you've got it, just need to work out what "it" was...

Craved, you know me better than that, a side-on shot will give my funny little game away. :cool: Remember, i said i wasn't going to just blurt how its done, that just wouldn't be as much fun as this.!! Besides everyone now knows, if they didn't before, how awesome your coatings are- the candy apple red is just friggin bewdiful!

Fainlly got my Ross balancer- its the stealth black one :D Car is back in the shop with a few little things getting sorted, should be back by mid week if not earlier. Then i can put some km's on it and take it back and lean on it!!

She was a bit doughy off idle but think we've sorted that issue.

Shit myself on Friday- thought it'd had a major failure but turned out that one of the turbo's oil drain had a slight leak and was dripping down straight onto the front pipe flange and soaked into the gasket which caused white smoke to complete fill the shop when started. After a hour or so of thinking, fcuk it's gotta come back out, we found the sneaky culprit- beers all round :D

In the end i put a standard water pump back on it instead of the N1. This is a street car. The clutch Dave from Wrights Clutch Service in Lismore NSW made me feels like something you'd find in a Ford Fiesta, but hangs on harder than Oprah on a baked ham!!

Still to fit the second 044 pump and surge tank, will do that after ive run it in some more. But i did install the Siemans 870 injectors

Air con is now cold again and power steering leak sorted.

Can't wait to get her back and drive it!!

Edited by Simonster
Simonster Proficient

Simonster

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Stop saving the world simon and get back into the cars! ;)

he he, Id LOVE TO. I wish i could, looks like ill miss the the next timeattack round in March. I just haven't had any time to get the RB25 fixed :)

Update with the GTR, the cam timing ended up being the culprit as expected. Changing cam gears. Sorted the inlet timing and she's now got 260hp on 6psi. Fixing the exhaust timing tomorrow, so it's looking promising so far.

  • 2 weeks later...
Simonster Proficient

Simonster

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Did the exhaust cam timing and she picked up another 20hp. Now 280hp on 6psi @ 5500rpm!! It's certainly looking promising.

Put it in for a roadworthy but needs a few bushes so that should be done by tomorrow.

Just awesome to drive, like a V8, just effortless torque and power on tap. Has a real angry idle now and the exhaust gas is really pulsing now, whereas before it was just constant.

Looking forward to putting some km's on it. Still needs a wheel alignment.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      Torana Lx Gtr Hatch, Lots Of Pictures

      By The Bogan · Posted

      LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • MBS206
      Recommendation for engine oil funnel spill free

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • EndZee
      Fuel Pump Control Module & Dropping Resistor

      By EndZee · Posted

      Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
×
×
  • Create New...